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ITP sells a really nice kit that gets rid of those filters and quick connects at the fuel tank, ITP 7.3L Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit, I'll be getting this soon.
Brian Please don't listen to him. Some of his information is mileading and not 100% accurite. What do you need to know we can work through it with you
I agree. There is alot of information he presents that an unsuspecting person could get misled by. If theres something you want to know, or think you need to know just ask. If you like, you could watch his stuff, to help you ask questions, but thats about as far as I would take anything he says. Just enough to get you to ask the right questions.
As for the fuel mod, there are more restrictive areas in the fuel system than that plunger. The only time that it's necessary for the plunger to be removed is if it's damaged.
David Lott's Snow White ran low 11's in the 1/4 mile while still running the stock fuel bowl. So that blows away the theories in those videos.
So thats a no. lol
Thought if it was a go i would do it while I was putting in my CCK.
I appreciate your willingness to help. Thats why I ask before I do anything.
I research many sites that have info on whatever mod Im looking at. So when
i crack open my donk Im not going in blind.
So thats a no. lol
Thought if it was a go i would do it while I was putting in my CCK.
I appreciate your willingness to help. Thats why I ask before I do anything.
I research many sites that have info on whatever mod Im looking at. So when
i crack open my donk Im not going in blind.
thanks again.
if your looking to get more fuel to the injectors..the CCK isn't going to help you...you should have got the regulated return kit..it does the same as the CCK at the return end (only it uses a regultor) but it also takes out the stock 1/4 inch fuel lines that feed opposite ends of the heads and the restrictive check valves at the head..the RR replaces it with 3/8 fuel lines feeding at the same end of the heads (front or back depending on the kit) without the check valves..that should be all the fuel you need for the HP you will be running..I assuming you have done the in tank mod (hutch & harpoon) already ??
if your looking to get more fuel to the injectors..the CCK isn't going to help you...you should have got the regulated return kit..it does the same as the CCK at the return end (only it uses a regultor) but it also takes out the stock 1/4 inch fuel lines that feed opposite ends of the heads and the restrictive check valves at the head..the RR replaces it with 3/8 fuel lines feeding at the same end of the heads (front or back depending on the kit) without the check valves..that should be all the fuel you need for the HP you will be running..I assuming you have done the in tank mod (hutch & harpoon) already ??
Swamps RR kit uses the existing hard fuel lines, and goes in just like the CCK did, just now with a real regulator, and you plug off the return outlet on the fuel bowl. I learned that when it showed up. What Im getting at, is if your doing the CCK, you should consider doing as I did, and what Ron is sort of suggesting. While you have everything apart, take the feed side off the check valves, and then remove the check valves. While they are out, disasemble them, theres a snapring you take out, then the rest falls out. I then drilled mine out with the drill press, to the smaller side of the two ends. Re install. You WILL want to get new rubber sealing pieces, either from ford, whoever, because at first when you tighten down onto the check valves, it will seal. Some miles down the road, it will start leaking.
Swamps RR kit uses the existing hard fuel lines, and goes in just like the CCK did, just now with a real regulator, and you plug off the return outlet on the fuel bowl. I learned that when it showed up. What Im getting at, is if your doing the CCK, you should consider doing as I did, and what Ron is sort of suggesting. While you have everything apart, take the feed side off the check valves, and then remove the check valves. While they are out, disasemble them, theres a snapring you take out, then the rest falls out. I then drilled mine out with the drill press, to the smaller side of the two ends. Re install. You WILL want to get new rubber sealing pieces, either from ford, whoever, because at first when you tighten down onto the check valves, it will seal. Some miles down the road, it will start leaking.
intrusting.. keeping the stock lines? I though test showed more fuel in..more fuel out was the way to go.. that gave all the fuel you need and at the same time keeping it cool...i know Dennis and Dave Lott spent a lot time and $$ to make there set up and they both run 3/8 line..i also know a few sponsors that make and sell RR kits will say in threads Dennis has a killer fuel system..
Ron, the bigger fuel lines do help if you are running really large injectors. But the main restriction in the entire system comes from those little check valves. So unless you mod those like Mike suggested, the bigger fuel lines won't provide any extra benefit.
But of course, this all depends on the injectors that any one truck is running. For example, on my truck I'm still running stock injectors and my check valves are unmodified, and I'm not getting a pressure drop at the rails yet because I'm not pulling that much fuel. However, say I was running a set of cut B-codes, then even with my regulated return system I would see a big drop in fuel pressure at the rails themselves as the injectors become starved for fuel.
Swamps RR kit uses the existing hard fuel lines, and goes in just like the CCK did, just now with a real regulator, and you plug off the return outlet on the fuel bowl. I learned that when it showed up. What Im getting at, is if your doing the CCK, you should consider doing as I did, and what Ron is sort of suggesting. While you have everything apart, take the feed side off the check valves, and then remove the check valves. While they are out, disasemble them, theres a snapring you take out, then the rest falls out. I then drilled mine out with the drill press, to the smaller side of the two ends. Re install. You WILL want to get new rubber sealing pieces, either from ford, whoever, because at first when you tighten down onto the check valves, it will seal. Some miles down the road, it will start leaking.
Originally Posted by Pocket
Ding Ding, we have a winner. Mike knows exactly where the real restriction in the fuel system is.
Originally Posted by ron's power stroke
intrusting.. keeping the stock lines? I though test showed more fuel in..more fuel out was the way to go.. that gave all the fuel you need and at the same time keeping it cool...i know Dennis and Dave Lott spent a lot time and $$ to make there set up and they both run 3/8 line..i also know a few sponsors that make and sell RR kits will say in threads Dennis has a killer fuel system..
Ron, I'm definately not saying that DI and ITP don't have great kits, cause they do!! I think Curtis is running DI's and I built my own, but it's patterned just like ITP's.
The stock fuel bowl and lines aren't near as restrictive as some may think. It's the check valves and how the fuel enters the heads that is restrictive. This picture below is of Cale Thompson's (BTS - Brian's son) destroyed block. It was something like 900hp just on fuel, 101 psi of boost when the entire block let go. If you look, he is running a regulator, but also the stock fuel bowl, and those look like 1/4" fuel lines to me. I believe their 1/4" lines cause if you compare them to the blue MAP/boost reference line at the bottom of the pic, they look like the same size.
900hp with the fuel bowl and stock sized lines can't be that restrictive!!
now I understand.. I new the big restriction was the check valve..the 3/8 line is just a bonus..i feel better knowing i made the right choice..thank Curtis