Y-Block: tuning? 2speed button?
He said the more he drove it the harder it ran, it started right up though. He figures I'll need new points, and I'm sure she could use an oil change and all of that (needs a fuel pump as well as this one spits out the weep hole), but I was wondering if anyone had a site or a book that covered Y-Blocks (mine is 272), or some tips for tuning it up? I can't imagine it being any more complicated, actually probably simpler, than a 302, but I'd hate for that comment to bit in the rear, lol.
Also, some jerk snagged the 2-speed button out of it (I always thought it was a leaver?), so it's stuck in low. Which sucks. He's checking to see if his friend has one. I've never actually seen how a 2speed rear connects to the front, like I said I always thought it was a leaver or something, but a button? Anyone have any pictures? Mine is a '56 F-600.
lol just always remember, just cause it's sitting in the middle of no where doesn't mean it's parts are free!
Thanks
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...rb-brakes.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...axle-work.html
Anyone know if you can just drive it in normal (high) gear all the time unless you're moving some weight?
oh, there is a 2 speed axle breakdown pic in my Misc Albums, if you want it.
From what I can imagine goign through the gears was only ment for when you where loaded. I can see it when you have 20,000 pounds behind you of why you would need it, but I would think you'd be able to just keep it in high or low and drive it normally... well actually you have to cause it's stuck in low and he drove it 40 miles that way. I'd rather be stuck in high right now though.
You should lock it in what ever gear you want to run it in though, if you're not going to shift it.....you don't want it coming out of gear when you don't want it to.....
There's 2 systems. older axles are vacuum operated and the newer ones are electric using a small electric motor and a worm gear to move the shift fork.
The electric system was used for a long time and parts are available to fix them.
Also, if you have a vacuum operated one and you want to switch it to electric, you need to replace the shift "fork" and you can put the electric unit on the older axle.
I am planning to use mine with the automatic transmission. I probably won't be shifting it since I'll have good gear ratios with the trans.
I probably will use it in low range when I'm towing etc...
You have to remember that these trucks came with 90hp 6cyl engines. You needed all the gears to stay in the max torque range...
With my 292 and the toque multiplication of the automatic I don't think I'll need to do multiple shifts....
Cheers,
Rick
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Unless you're hauling some serious stuff you can leave it in high range.
It's been awhile but I think you can climb under the truck and manually shift the rearend into High Range, when you look at the front side of the rear you will see an attachment - thats the shifter.
Could be electric - or air.
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Y-Blocksforever
Unless you're hauling some serious stuff you can leave it in high range.
It's been awhile but I think you can climb under the truck and manually shift the rearend into High Range, when you look at the front side of the rear you will see an attachment - thats the shifter.
Could be electric - or air.
If the shifter is not working you should wire it in the position you want so it doesn't slip in between gears. If that happens it'll damage the sliding "shifter"
I would get the two speed running.
Dad usually used it as a "5th" gear.
I learned to split shift it, which is a pretty brutal process until you get the hang of it...
Once you figure out the splits, you can do it smoothly and keep the revs a bit lower, but you will damage your arm and shoulder trying to move that stick 2nd to 3rd while working the button....
Google "eaton 2 speed shift procedure" and the first up is a PDF of the service manual.
The basic shift is:
Lo to hi: Reach desired speed. Lift button. Lift throttle, wait for shift, depress throttle and proceed.
Hi to lo--THIS CAN NOT BE USED TO DOWNSHIFT LIKE YOU DOWNSHIFT THE TRANS.
Hi to lo: UNDER LOAD, depress the shift button. Stab the clutch with the throttle held steady. This will allow the axle to shift and the rpm's to rise to match the new ratio.
Split shifting requires these shifts while you are shifting the main trans. If you get it running and can use it to your satisfaction as above, then try split shifting.
Some other explanations talk about splitting first. While first-hi is useful in farm situations, or for crawling in traffic, you would probably not use it.
2nd lo
shift to hi
shift to 3rd while pushing the button down to lo.
Same in 3rd.
You better match the rpms right, or BANG.
Split downshifting works too, but again, matching the revs is key to avoiding the deadly hang-up or Big Bang out back.
I had this happen and somehow, the axle did not grenade.
If it hangs up, there isn't much you can do until you slow down enough for it to go one way or the other. Thus, AVOID any splits when you are in a downhill mode lest you be without engine braking.
Brakes? That will keep you busy too.
Good luck with it.
So how do I lock it in gear?
You will get the hang of it and will be able to split shift and downshift when you get some experience.
Any thing that has a floor shift I double clutch and if there's a button on the shift I'm using it as well - for a two speed - a cigar lighter or what ever.















