Quick lower valance question

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May 11, 2009 | 07:26 AM

White97

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From: Pittsburgh, PA

Quick lower valance question

Installing my lower valanace from NPD. Is the lower valannce supposed to be notched around the frame horns? My bent and rusted original was notched just a little around where the frame splays up at the end. But it looks like the PO did this due to it getting hit.

Typical re-pop, fender holes lined up, slots to rad support, not even close....So I can't tell if the valance is off or the DC re-pop rad support is off.

I think if I notch the valance it will allow it to lay in closer to the rad support. If not, step drill and mig time

May 11, 2009 | 11:13 AM

daveengelson

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Lou, have 65, not sure if understand what you mean by 'notched'. On mine, the outer back edges of the valance is contoured/molded to fit around the front fender and then there's an extention, width of the radiator, that's approx. 1 1/2" with 2 holes for the bolts that secure the grille, and grille bracket to the radiator support. In short, the back section of the valance roughly follows the contour of the radiator support. I have found some reproduction parts require minor refabrication, if you feel too much, suggest contact supplier and inquire. Also, it's best to save all the original parts until the project is complete, few occasions retreived the original to use as a templet, or remove component not included in reproduction. My experience has been the more specific the item to the particular year truck the less refab.

May 11, 2009 | 11:32 AM

White97

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From: Pittsburgh, PA

Dave - the leading edge of the valance, it would be under the bumper, is this notched so that the valance wraps around the frame where the frame and bumper bolt together. This would be the spot where the frame rises up to the bumper. I don't thik you would be able to see it with the bumper on the truck.

Everything is aligning except the slots in the valance to the bolts holes in the radiator where the vertical braces go. The valance lines up to the fenders just fine.

May 11, 2009 | 01:37 PM

daveengelson

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Make a quick sketch of the lower valance, apologize for the pathetic drawing.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...wervalance.jpg

Took couple pic's of the notch looking down of the back edge of the lower valance:

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0001-2.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0004-1.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0007-1.jpg

Pic is of the notch on the front edge for bumper brackets.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...IMG_0005-1.jpg

Hopefully pic's and sad drawing help answers question, anything further let us know!!

May 11, 2009 | 02:17 PM

White97

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From: Pittsburgh, PA

Thanks Dave - That was exactly what I wanted to know. I belive one of the PO must of hacked the notches when the truck was hit and the NPD source sends it out without the frame notches. Once I notch, it should allow the valance to lay in tighter and make the holes by the radiator line up better.

I had prevous experience bolting up new re-pop Tiawan sheet metal on a 78 GMC I had. Same issue with alignment of bolt holes. That is why I'm chasing down an original pass fender ather than ordering a new re-pop one....

May 11, 2009 | 04:22 PM

daveengelson

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From: Boulder Creek, Ca

Cool, good to hear the info was helpful. Purchased my 65 F100 in 1972 at an auction from utility company and continued to abuse it until few years back and had to replace flareside bed and fenders, I have seen beer can's with thicker gage metal. Good luck with your project.