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Opposing issue; not getting hot enough?

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Old May 10, 2009 | 11:41 AM
  #1  
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Opposing issue; not getting hot enough?

Could just be the factory gauge lying to me, but, even on chilly days, this truck won't blow heat. It keeps you from freezing, but it definitely doesn't warm the cab like my gasser did. I do intend to install real gauges, so I can see what's what for real, but I'm curious what would cause this thing to run cool. My EGTs run normal according to the VDO pyrometer, with the cheapo cold air intake cruising 55mph it stays between 200 and 400 degrees depending on the grade, pulling hills can see 600-800 depending on the hill and/or the load, but the cooling system seems to be over-doing it. Any ideas?
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 02:19 PM
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Festus Hagen
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The wrong thermostat.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 02:56 PM
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rupejosh
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thermostat stuck open or no thermostat.so swap i wold swap it out
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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heater core unhooked?
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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Heater core recently replaced; will replace thermostat and go from there. Thanks.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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Heater cores have been known to air lock when replaced.Make sure the radiator is compleatly full. My 90's heater air locked, and I had a hard time getting it to work right. I finally installed a flush T in the heater hose and primed it from there.
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Leave the radiator cap off, run the motor with the heater on... Thats all it takes to burp the system.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 10, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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Since the thermostat open temp should be 195 degrees, the heater on high should have no trouble geting you to roll down a window at 5 degrees outside.

Either the thermostat is stuck open, missing or the blend door is jambed or broken.

Coolant flows through the heater core at all times.
Temperature is regulated with the blend door mixing cab and outside air.


Nice summer trick to keep the cab cooler, bypass the coolant around the heater core.
You can move the hoses or install a couple valves and tees to shut off the heater core while letting the coolant circulate passed it.
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:51 AM
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I'm going to check the thermostat first, since it does blow "warm", and it's actually enough to melt ice from the windshield, but definitely not warm enough to keep comfortable. My factory temp gauge rarely reaches "N" on "Normal".
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:53 AM
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on my 87 i have the factory and aftermarket temps. when it reaches the N in normal it is running about 195-205 range. even if it is a little short of N it should still be up there in temp.
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:54 AM
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Neither does mine, but it'll still bake you out of the truck.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 11:19 PM
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My 7.3l idi runs at or below the N in normal as well. I live in Calif so I don't use the heat to often.
 
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Old May 13, 2009 | 11:59 PM
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Note only use Ford or IH thermostats........

CAUTION:
The specified/required thermostat does not contain an internal bypass, since the bypass is located in the cylinder block. Whenever the thermostat is replaced, it is mandatory that only Motorcraft E5TZ-8575-C or Navistar 1807974C94 thermostat be installed.

CAUTION:
Do not attempt to repair any thermostat. It should be replaced if it is not operating properly.

Check the new thermostat before installing it for correct opening temperature. Before suspending in boiling water, with a flashlight check where the rubber and the flat metal flange meet for bad seal. Tstat should start to opening barely at 180-192f, fully open 200-212f, allow to cool and check for rubber seal again.

Diesel engine coolant temperature at the top of the radiator where hose attaches after high rpm or under load condition for 20 minutes should be (195-237*F) 91-114*C nice time to have a temperature reading point and shoot tool.
 
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