nearly forgot but using that manual switch causes the pcm to see an electrical fault and goes into FMEM (failure mode effects managment)
it causes maximum line pressure which reduces pump life and other components like the one way clutches and the sun shell due to the harsh shifting
if your truck is working correctly the pcm will lock the torque converter clutch on at full throttle in any gear thats part of its strategy to prevent overheating

 

thanks transtech for the info. youve always answered my transmission questions and i apreciate all your useful info. ive been doing some price comparisons on alot of the rebuild parts. what do you think about the alto red eagle clutches and what is the difference between the clutch kits with frictions and steels and the individual clutch power packs. does the power packs supply a thinner apply plate so you can use more frictions and steels?

 

Basically, 1995 and up are the years that have some of the better parts available depending on the build. Something that came out of an F450 would be more likely to have steel carriers for the gears.

1995 and up will have the higher volume pump.

1994 and up will have the roller bearing center support.

1995 and up also tend to have better roller clutches and sprags (not all will be backwards compatible)

 

I tried asking the local ford dealer about that, and they couldn't find the fittings for that. It seems the only way that they could get them in was to order a complete cooler bypass assembly.

I don't suppose you know what could be done to upgrade an older E4OD to a newer 3/8" size cooler package?

 

thanks david for the responce and the useful info. the higher volume pump is a must along with the updated center support. and i would like to update all the planets to steel as well.

 

That is correct, and is a common problem for people who run manual switches, and many choose to just live with it. However, not me, this is something I would not tolerate even for a second - there is a way to avoid it all, and this is by creating a "ghost" TC solenoid - when cutting the wire between the PCM and the TC both ends need to be fed into the cab, the end coming from the TC gets hooked up to the manual switch through the brake interlock relay (optional to many, mandatory to me), and the end coming from (well actually going to) the PCM needs to be fed key-on 12V through a 22k-ohm resistor. The voltage drop across this resistor is nearly equal to the one across the TC solenoid when the PCM engages lockup, so the electrical fault you mentioned never happens and the PCM does not change its shifting strategy. I have been paying close attention to what my PCM does ever since I installed that switch, I have not noticed anything irregular compared to the factory setup.

Now that is something I didn't know. Then again, I very very rarely go full throttle, I normally drive like a grandpa, which may **** off lots of people on the roads, but they ain't the one filling up my tanks or covering the repair bill should something actually happen.

 

So here's a question for all of you. I have a 93 F-350 7.3l with a 5-speed transmission. I added a Banks Turbo system to is a few years back. After replacing the clutch to resolve a major clutch chatter problem failed, as well as numerous other attempts to resolve the chatter problem, I'm now considering swapping the tranny to an E40D and going automatic.

I've been driving this 5-speed manual transmission since I bought this truck 15 years ago in back '94 and seeings how the clutch chatter may finally be my catalyst for a tranny swap, I thought I might just do it. I know there is a lot of work including changing the steering column and other components, but is it worth the time and effort and is there somewhere you know of that I can go to find all the steps necessary to make the swap?

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

The chatter you talk about makes the dash dance when taking off?

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

It makes the whole truck shake violently when starting off in reverse and 1st gear, especially on grades or backing up in a driveway. It's worse in warm weather or after driving for a 1/2 hour or so. Not even the Ford dealer here can figure it out and I'm at the point where I want to run it off a cliff.

 

The following is my personal opinion and is just that, My opinion!

Things that can cause clutch chatter... In no order.

Main Bearings.
Crank.
Flywheel.
Clutch Disk.
Pressure Plate.
Pilot bearing/Bushing.
Main Shaft.
Main Shaft Bearings.
Some say Motor/Trans. mounts, I have yet to have that proved to me! And I have never been that lucky.

And typically a combination of several items.

You stated you replaced the clutch, I'll _assume_ you replaced or reground the flywheel!

Do to your mention of _it's worse when it's warm_ leads me to believe it's main bearings.

This is what I would do to further diagnose the issue.
Get it hot, drain the motor oil, fill it with straight 50 weight oil, see if it improves.
I would not run the motor hard with 50wt in it, drain it, change the filter, re fill with your choice of oil. I would even flush once with cheap oil.

Another thing to check is crank end play and flywheel trueness.
End play can be done via the inspection cover, flywheel trueness would require transmission removal.

To check end play, remove flywheel inspection cover, place dial indicator on flywheel, pry flywheel/crankshaft fore and aft checking movement on dial indicator.

To check flywheel trueness, remove transmission, pressure plate, clutch.
On the outer most part of the flywheel smooth area, place dial indicator, pry crank fore or aft and then slowly rotate motor watching dial indicator. Be careful not to move crank fore and aft (end play).

Sorry about the hijack folks.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

i have a 90 E4OD in my truck & i got it rebuilt about 6 months ago... the only problem that i had with mine was the bushings in the tail end of the tranny went bad and binded on my speed sensor, which then sent a bad signal to the computer on when to shift. the little gear on your speedsensor is plastic so it doesnt take much to mess them up. otherwise i have had no problems with it since i had it rebuilt. when i had it rebuilt i bought another computer for it and sent i to diesel specialists inc. and had it recalibrated because the stock settings made it shift too early and was putting things on a bind, i did this instead of the torque converter control module. another thing always keep your overdrive off in town, dont turn it on until you are moving at highway speeds.

 

question on the early shifts and the binding issue. my truck has been doing this since i bought it, and i heard that the solenoid pack and the controller is the culprit for this problem. i was told that you can buy a solenoid valve and the controller out of a newer e4od truck and use it instead of the earlier style controllers. is this correct and out of what year truck to use it out of?

 

could you give a better discription of this mod? i cut the purple/yellow wire and wired that to a toggle switch but my od light is blinking now. i havnt checked the codes but i want to do this mod correctly. i too am trying to keep my converter from coming in untill I am at hwy speed. i do alot of 45-50mph stuff and want to keep the converter unlocked.

 

You need to first understand that the TCC lockup gets engaged by the PCM grounding the proper solenoid inside the trans through the purple/yellow wire. If you just have a switch inline, what happens is when the switch is open the PCM does not receive any input from the TCC solenoid, and does what FordTransTech said it will and enters failiure management mode. Then when you close it and complete the circuit all you're doing is restoring PCM control over the TCC lockup, but that don't disengage the FMEM.

The proper way of installing a manual TCC switch is as follows:
1) cut the purple/yellow wire, extend both ends so they reach the dash (you already have that.
2) connect the wire end that comes from the trans to one terminal of an on/off switch, then connect the other terminal of the switch to a good ground - when switch is open the converter is unlocked, when you flip the switch the circuit gets completed to ground and the lockup solenoid gets engaged. So, in your case, take that switch you already have wired in, and unplug the wire end that goes to the PCM, and instead plug a new wire in its place and run that new wire to a good ground.
3) find a suitable position in the fuse panel that gets 12V power only when the ignition is on, tap into that using an ATO add-a-fuse breakout thingie (found at most parts stores for under $8), and then connect it to the loose end of the purple/yellow that goes to the PCM (the same one you unplugged from your switch), but install a 22k-ohm resistor (found at RadioShack for just a few bucks) between them - so basically when you turn the truck on the 12V current flows from the fuse pane, through the resistor, through the purple/yellow wire, and into the PCM. This way whenever the PCM decides to lock the converter it will "see" the proper voltage it expects, and it won't throw a code.

A few notes on using a manual switch - unlocked torque converter makes a lot of heat when under load (like it would be in 3rd and 4th), so make sure you have a good cooling setup for the trans. Also, the converter should not be left locked under 25mph, so watch out for that before you slam on the brakes cause you can fry the thing real easy. Having a light on the dash to tell you when the converter is open or closed is a good idea too.

 

thanks and i do understand all of that. my thing is i dont really want to control the lockup as much as I want to control it being unlocked. I would like to be able to drive around town here withthe converter unlocked and only choose to lock it in when i go 'open road'. basically i live in the country where the speed limit on most roads is 45mph. they are curvy back roads so it is nice to have the extra response of the throttle with the converter unlocked as opposed to it lagging upon acceleration and having to unlock and relock the converter. So I want to be able to run normal factory mode then be able to flip the switch and unlock the converter and keep it unlocked untill i flip the switch back to factory mode. so will this set up work like that?