Today on my reliable old van, a heater hose failed (actually the plastic push-in connector cracked). I checked my maint program & the last time I repaired it was in Oct last year, when I repaired the EGR pipe which cracked when I loosened it to get at the rear plug. Now, I'm going to replace all the hoses, since you cant say with those plastic joints ,one could be almost ready to go & you cant tell. I wonder if that was the source of my slight coolant leak ? doubt it....... time will tell. Still, I pushed it since the hoses are all original, I do check them for deterioration but you cant see a hidden joint can you?
My fault for not replacing them sooner.

Lesson learned!

ATB Aeroman.

 

Don't be too hasty. Some of these rigs are still running around with original hoses and connectors after nearly 20 years. Perhaps your failed connector bail was an aftermarket item. I replaced the inner connection parts some years back with Ford OEM items and have had no problems with breakage or leakage. The hoses date back to 1990 when the van was built.

 

I think if you keep the cooling system from overheating, and change the coolant at least once every two years, the hoses can last pretty long. When you're changing the coolant is a good time to check the hoses. (To thoroughly drain the system usually requires pulling the hoses apart anyway.) All the cars I've seen that have suffered hose failures had neglected cooling systems. The problems usually started with destruction from the inside, so the only way to see for sure is to take the hoses apart and look inside.

I just took apart the cooling system of my 87 Mustang, and the one stock hose is still in pretty good shape. I replaced most of them very early on with silicon hoses, but for some reason the kit did not replace one of the stock hoses.

My 1990 van is still using its original hoses, and the hoses that I took apart looked OK inside. One of the hoses that connect to the water pump is looking a little bloated, so I'm expecting to replace it soon.

But my 1991 van was really neglected by its previous owners, and I found a leak at one of the heater fittings. It was caused by corrosion eating away enough of the nipple that the O-rings could no longer seal it. I cut that plastic fitting off and shoved the hose over the nipple and tightened it with a hose clamp.

 

well, my advice.... inspect hoses every year and if your van is old have some spare hoses, fitting and plugs somwhere under a seat if you drive somewhere far. I have upper radiator hose failed onese and lower onese too. Heater hoses are stock.

 

The hoses on mine all look good, however I had the plastic heater bypass valve crack about 4-5 years back. Now this failure is also a plastic fitting, funny thing is that it cracked inside the aluminum sleeve where there would be no stress from anything except joint assembly pressure. I think at the next chance I'll replace the upper rad hose & the thermostat & the associated small hose on the housing. Might as well do the other heater hose while I'm in there too.
They want almost 80 bucks for lower rad hose?!!! looks in good shape & there is no plastic involved on that one!

 

when I inspected heater hoses I found one fitting crecked, I cut it away and secured hose on heater core with regulat hose clamp! no leak

 

So I replaced the heater hoses & the upper rad hose , also decided to change the thermostat, since I noticed it ran hotter than it used to & it tends to cycle every 1-2 minutes between the outer limits of the R & M on the temp gauge, almost got to the A sometimes.
Now the gauge runs at a line between the N & O on the gauge. The scantool reads a slight cycling between 185- 192*f. I think this is about right. I inspected the old hoses & they have built up with a layer of rust, don't like that, but I did use rad flush last time. Anyone used one of the electrolytic anodes in these vans? although since the rad is largely plastic would it even be effective?

Aeroman.

 

While changing my water pump this weekend I noticed that my upper and lower hoses were a bit flabby and that my coolant had been darkened by decaying inner hoses. Those hoses were the original hoses from 1992 with 135,000 miles. So Last night I ordered those upper and lower hoses and now I'm just waiting for those to come before I add the coolant to the system.

As a side note, the water pump change went a lot easier than I expected; the hardest part for me was just getting the fan clutch off. I didn't want to go and get the holder tool so I took a small C-clamp and set it between the pulley; without clamping it or tightening it as I started to turn the fan bolt the C-clamp grabbed one of the four bolts and wedged itself against the tensioner to the right and with a few light taps with a hammer on my wrench I heard the beautiful sound of the bolt cracking loose. After that all the water pump bolts came off great and the job was complete in about 4 hours.

 

It seems odd to me, but I have replaced the piece that comes out ot the water pump twice on each van. But, I have used a piece of copper tubing to splice it into the stock hose a few inches up the line, and not much issue from there. I finally replaced that hose on the 94, which has dual hear and air, and that one has different sizes in the ends than on the end in the middle. (Yes, it is a three-ended hose.) Seems it cost me so much I figured out what all the sizes were and marked them in my book so I could fabricate one in the future.

 

The trick with the dual heater system is those Y-hoses; you would have to replace the Y-joint with something like a T fitting.

I'm still using the original hoses in my 1990 van. In checking all the hose parts I could get to, I found one end of one of the hoses appeared to be weakening. Some day soon I will have to replace it. For that, I picked up a set of Y-hoses from a salvage yard that was complete, but obviously not used very much. The previous owner gave up on trying to remove the slip-fittings from the front heater box, so he installed some U-tubes between the inlets and outlets.

 

Actually, I cut the old hose before the T and used an adapter of sorts; seems to me it was a fitting that took 5/8" copper tubing to 1/2" or something along that line. The problem area seems to be where the hottest water comes out of the water pump.