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New 302 help

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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:15 AM
  #1  
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New 302 help

I need some help with my truck. I have installed a new 302, auto trans, and transfer case into my 94 F150 4x4, the previous drive train had just short of 300,000 miles. I installed a 160 degree thermostat, but everything else is a stock replacement. I was not trying to build anything wild; I just wanted a reliable truck that can be used as a truck. The problem is the truck stalls when the engine is cold, it also stalls when put into gear or I stop at a light or stop sign. After the truck has been running a while it no longer does this. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate them. I’m thinking possible timing and or changing to a 180 degree thermo stat.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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It should have a 180 or 190 degree thermostat anyway, but I doubt that's your problem. What is your timing set at? 10 degrees is base timing, and you might want to make sure you start there while troubleshooting.

It doesn't stall when it's warmed up? Sounds a bit like the transmission is dragging it down.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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160 is too cold, unless you are living in the Mojave desert. Move up to a 192/195(stock) thermostat, your motor will be up to proper operating temp. What is your RPM at idle when warm?
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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Im not positive but i dont think your computer will not work right with a 160 thermostate . I think you need to use the factory one . I think my 95 was 194 ..Lew
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 04:34 PM
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160 is not too cold if you take a engine to a dyno it makes more power with a 160 thermostat than a 180 or 190 because the pistons fit snugger in the cylinders just google it the only differance is a 180 is supposed to extend the life of your engine more than a 160, i run a 160 but i don't have fuel injection
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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At what temp do these engine go into closed-loop? If the engine doesn't get warm enough, the ECC will think it's still cold and you'll run rich. You might not ever get to a proper operating temp without the correct t-stat.

Tbird, no problem for you, you took off all the EFI, but the OP can indeed run into problems.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:44 PM
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I can't imagine the t-stat causing the truck to stall when cold. A good friend of mine ran his 93 5.0 auto without a t-stat for several months and his truck never stalled, it just ran rich all the time.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:26 PM
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if you take a engine to a dyno it makes more power with a 160 thermostat than a 180 or 190 because the pistons fit snugger in the cylinders
the cooler engine might make more power, but it is not because of piston clearance since the aluminum alloy pistons grow more than the cast iron block.

For the stalling problem, check all the usual suspects: idle air control valve/solenoid, TPS, and coolant temperature sensor.
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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that's true i never really thought too much about it that's just what i have heard
 
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Old May 8, 2009 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Virto
At what temp do these engine go into closed-loop?
180 derees.
 
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Old May 9, 2009 | 12:07 AM
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Thanks for all the advice. I picked up a stock thermostat today, going to give that a try. I also installed a new Magnaflow exhaust system, headers back. The old system if you could call it that looked like quilt with all the various pieces that were welded together to make it a dual set up. The pipes were only 2” on top of that. I think that the lower temp thermostat is causing it to run too rich. You can really see it now that the truck has a good flowing exhaust. That change also helped with the idle a bit, I’ll install the Tstat this weekend and post the results. If it wasn’t for emissions test where I will be moving to I would have ditched the EFI and dropped a carb on it. I hate the early EFI systems they are too finicky and just don’t play well with others. I’ve had 2 late model Mustang GTs, and ’03 GT and currently an ’06 GT. As long as you have a programmer the sky is the limit on mods that can be done without these problems.
 
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Old May 9, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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OK.. given that insight on your background, I now suspecct the "new" engine isn't exactly stock. If it isn't what cam did you put in it?
 
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Old May 9, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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No, I actually dropped in a stock replacement. When I started the project gas prices were nuts and I already have one hungry V-8. I was initially going to give it to my son and did not want him to bite off more than he could chew HP wise and with crapy MPG. I figured that it could be built up later. Due to time constraints we got him an F 250 4X4 with the V-10. Since I'm keeping it now, when I get the '06 GT to 650 rwhp I'll pull the 302 and punch it to a 347 and most likely replace the factory computer with a FAST set up. Did I mention the new exhaust sounds sweet.
 
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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:20 PM
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Replaced the Tstat with a OE replacement. It still stalls when put into reverse or drive after start up. Once it has been running the problem goes away. I can keep it from stalling by power braking. I don't have to bring the RPMs up much to keep it from happening. It could be the timing or the fact that the motor and trans only have 190 miles on them and are still just tight due to a lack of break in time. The problem seems to be easing up the more I drive the truck. It idles smoothly at stop lights at around 850 RPMs, old tach. That is what leads me to think that the motor just needs more break in time. The new Tstat did help with the driveability, cooler is not a good thing with this truck.
 
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