Hello Ladies and Gentleman!

Exciting times are going on in my neck of the woods. We've been stuck down here on the Gulf for 20 years unable to move. God has opened the doors to allow us to move back home up north to WV. I have about 1,300 miles to look forward to.

Now for the serious part; What all should I check on my truck before this trip? Here's what's new:

1.) Air Filter
2.) Fuel Filter
3.) Transmission oil and filter
4.) Radiator fluid has been changed

And here's a possible problem: My truck overheats easily. The last time I took a long trip me and dad changed the Thermostat. I don't know if this has solved the problem. After taking my truck out for a long drive a week or so ago I noticed my engine heat Dumby Gage climbed with speed when I tackled a bridge at 70+ mph. I'm thinking I may have this overheating issue again when I take this trip for two 10 hour days. What could be the problem here? I have no idea where to look. I'm hoping this is something I can do before we make this move. My truck will be under mild load also with the AC running.

Also, does my truck have one fuel filter or two? I ask this because I have two fuel tanks.

Any comments or thoughts or just whatever are welcome in this thread!

Thanks all

-Bill

 

You should have just the one frame mounted fuel filter. I would check the lower radiator hose to see if it is collapsing under load and pinching off coolant flow. This could cause symptoms similar to what you describe. I had a hose that would do that to me on the Explorer, it would only do it on longer drives because it took the hose a while to get softened up by heat. After driving for a while (about 40 minutes to an hour), you could get underneath the thing, have somebody rev it, and watch it collapse. Drive the thing for 20 minutes and it wouldn't do it, it was bizarre.

Good luck!

 

I have exact problem with my 79 F150 they do in hot summer.

how to fix is turn on heater and stop at food place every 90 miles to cool down that was 109oF last summer.


That how I did.


Before we think it could be radiator plugged have you try flush again.

What rpm you drive at 60 or 65 or 70 mph. It seem they get hot faster at 3,000 rpm

 

Thanks for the good luck!

What you described sounds just like it. It takes a long time for my truck to start over heating. For instance, I can drive to church (about 10 miles) and never have to worry about over heating, let alone just running to the store. However if I drive it for 45 minutes or so, it starts to really get warm.. After several hours I have to keep an eye on the dumby gage.

If my truck goes to over heat, we'll stop and I'll have dad rev my truck while I look at the hose. The radiator hose is new; I just got a body lift. I wonder if that will make a difference?

Good to hear from you Milwaukee. Been a while!

RPM's are 2,200 or so at 60 mph. The ole' girl holds fine at 70 but like you said it starts to get hot then. I blame this on the gear ratio. If it was a 302 I probably wouldn't have this problem but the 300 doesn't like to rev.

My truck has over 213,000 miles. Who knows, maybe it's just wore out. I would still think it has nothing to do with over heating though.

 

if the hoses and thermostat are new, id say check to see if the radiator is clogged or the water pump isnt working properly.

 

What last time you change water pump?

If you plan replace water pump why not check water pump high volume which capable moving antifreeze faster than stock water pump?

How fan clutch it tight or it just spin easy?


it could be too much water or coolant cause this.

that rpm sound like I use go 65 mph with rpm at 2,800.

You could try set cruise control and stay at 60 mph but I believe in Night time it be cooler than during day. You could try drive Night and see if it not overheat fast like during day.

My truck get overheat fast during day due sun but at night it cool.

 

Thanks for your reply torino. Where is my waterpump and how do I tell if it's working correctly?

Edit: I don't know if it's note worthy but I'll be working until the very last minute. I don't have much time on my hands.

 

the pulley that the fan is on is the water pump pulley, so its right there. it is kind of a pain to change out though. i had a similar problem with my 94 but that was caused by a bad thermostat, the thermostat went bad multiple times which was really annoying. some of the stuff they sell at the parts stores nowadays aint the highest quality i suppose

 

water pump would have fan mount on pulley

you see that I say it would get 3-4 hours for people who have limited experience. It not hard job. but best is scrap gasket off why it wouldn't be fun if it leak.

i find pic.

 

Bill,
I like the lower hose idea. I would look at the fan clutch too, but it shouldn't cause overheating while cruising, it really shows up in traffic with the A/C on. A bad fan clutch will have caked on oil/dirt on it and even on the fan. The clutches are oil filled and will leak when the seal fails. The oil is the link between the belt drive and the fan blade. Retarded ignition timing can cause overheating too. What kinda shape is the radiator in, maybe flush the cooling system? You could also spray the hose thru the radiator/condenser (back flush from the engine compartment) to make sure there isn't any dirt/debris that could restrict air flow. Your overheating problem shouldn't be too hard resolve. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

the fan isnt doing anything when hes at 70ish mph which is where he said his issues were so even if the fan was bad it wouldnt cause the problems hes having

 

Something I just thought of: What if the hose is collapsing? What do I do to remedy the problem? Like I said I have a new hose (s). It's really two hoses with exhaust pipe in the middle.

Thanks torino. I know what you mean. Nobody stands by what they sell anymore. It's all about getting the product out the door and the money in their hands.


Thanks bud, that picture is just what I need. Thank you!

Bern, I really appriciate your time. You're right, my problem shouldn't be too hard to resolve. It's not a huge deal (I hope). Last time I had this problem I drove for six or eight hours or so before having to stop. If I can drive 6 hours before having to stop I won't complain. I just know a truck should be able to go longer than that and after driving over our bridge and noticing how fast my motor heated up it made me a little concnerned the problem worsened. I don't need to get out there with my truck loaded down and break down. I'm sure that won't happen but if I can resolve this heating issue or at least gain knowledge than I'll feel better. I am a very cautious man!

Good night all, I'll be on tomorrow afternoon.

 

You should be able to drive that truck, stopping only for fuel and never experience any heating issues. Something is wrong and once you fix it you will never look back.

 

Does your lower hose have a metal spring in it? The lower hose on my 351 has a metal spring in there to keep it from collapsing. You could try finding a spring of the proper diameter and putting it in there to stop the hose from collapsing.

The hose on my Explorer that I had problems with was pretty new but it was cheap so I was not too surprised when I had problems. I found a spring at a place that specialized in fasteners, chains, springs, and all sorts of cool stuff. After putting the spring in I ran the hose for another two years until it started looking really bad. When I got a new hose I put the spring in that hose.

 

That is exactly what I was thinking. Part of me wants to think it's normal for our summers down here but even so eight hours seems way too short to overheat on the highway.

A spring? Now I think you're messing with me! ha ha. Thanks man I'll look into it.