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Last night I had driven about 3 hours and 100 + miles. Lots of heavy rain. After the rain stopped I was in the city when the battery light came on. Grabbed the DVM and found out I was putting out 12.10 volts to each battery. The alternator was dry and all connections appeared tight and relatively clean. I was able to drive her home 40 miles with no issues other than the battery light being on.
I am thinking the alternator is shot. What do you guys think? I was going to load test the batteries but I am thinking that even with a bad battery, the alternator should be in the 13.8 to 14.8 range. I have never seen a alternator go bad and put out more than a few volts so I am not sure. I did wiggle a wiring harness (black with pink stripe) to try to disconnect the door chime. Then the rain came down and I just put the cover back on until a clear day.
Thoughts? Any ideas where to get a good alternator cheap near the Washington DC Metro area?
Yep. The voltage regulator in the alternator is the only input to the battery light in the cluster. 12.1 volts at idle is NOT acceptable. Throw an alternator in it (the flavor of which is up to you). Oh, and a "cheap" alternator that you desire may possibly not make it back 100 miles. Pony up the money for a good one and be happy.
Thanks for the 12 OZD but I got her home last night with no issues. I can probably get her to my parents garage if need be but as you know, we have had heavy rain for the last 2 days.
I guess my main concern was I have never seen a bad alternator put out more than a few volts. I was getting 12.10v at each battery last night. I can't afford to spend $200.00 on alternator only to find out that wasn't the problem. Just looking for a sanity check.
I am to start her up right now and take another measurement.
I've done the Alternator on both my 02 Excursion and my 99.5 F-250, and they both did exactly what you are discribing. So as the other poster added, I would say it's safe to asure your Alternator is going bad. They run around $180-$220 depending on where you get it. Auto Zone/Nappa,etc. Hope you make it home safely.
Yes, a bad alternator CAN put out less than 14+ volts and more than 0.
If the battery light is on, then the alternator needs replaced. Check your batteries while you're in there with an actual load tester. You might be surprised.
I went out and check all of the connections again. All battery terminals are tight and fairly clean. All alternator connections are tight. Started her up. Getting 11.98 volts at both batteries. I jiggled the same harness again and I got the battery light to flicker and the charging gauge to stop and start working. During this time, the DVM stayed around 11.98 volts. I guess I need to have a look at the ignition switch, at least the connections. I am pretty sure I don't have a lower alternator so.... I couldn't see how to release the belt tension before it started puring again. Can anyone tell me how and where to release the belt tension? I'd like to replace the belt while I there but I have to disconnet and reconnect the top radiator hose. What brilliant Ford engineer designed that?
I it no fun working on the front of the engine with a Meyer Snowplow Pump on the front.
You can use a 1/2" drive breaker bar into a matching slot on the belt tensioner. It is on the idler pulley bracket on the passenger side of the engine.
there is a belt tensioner on the passenger side top of the engine by the battery, just use a 1/2" drive ratchet and insert it into the square hole on the spring loaded tensioner. you dont have to take off the radiator hose, just take the belt off of the alt and replace when you have the new alt on
I have a load tester at my parents house as well as a hyrometer. Do I need to disconnect both batteries in order to load test each? It is such a pain to get the posative terminals tight.
Load test each battery independent of each other. Not hard to get the positive (or negative posts) tight unless your cable ends are pretty worn. I use the good 'ol wiggle test when I retighten my cables and it seems to work well.
FWIW, when my battery light came on, alternator was bad. When my batteries went dead, lite didn't come on. And seeing the volt readings that you posted, I believe your alternator has gone bye, bye. Mine didn't give me any warnings - just went bad on a trip home from my kid's football game. I noticed my voltmeter (aftermarket) reading only 11 volts then I saw the light on the dash. Replace the alternator and no problems since.
Load test each battery independent of each other. Not hard to get the positive (or negative posts) tight unless your cable ends are pretty worn. I use the good 'ol wiggle test when I retighten my cables and it seems to work well.
FWIW, when my battery light came on, alternator was bad. When my batteries went dead, lite didn't come on. And seeing the volt readings that you posted, I believe your alternator has gone bye, bye. Mine didn't give me any warnings - just went bad on a trip home from my kid's football game. I noticed my voltmeter (aftermarket) reading only 11 volts then I saw the light on the dash. Replace the alternator and no problems since.
When my alt quit, I don't remember the batt light coming on, but I sure noticed when the radio quit, then my Isspro gauges, then the A/C, then the windows... all this while travelling with the family w/a trailer in tow on a hot August afternoon. I was just grateful the truck kept running, and I was able to limp to the nearest parts store and buy a reman alt!
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