AC temp...??
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,689
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AC temp...??
I have an 05 F-250, and I had it in the shop last year for a recharge. It was low from the factory, and vacuum checked out ok. It blows cold when moving. However, today, its about 83 degrees, and humid as hell. If you have the inside ATC set to 70 degree, its NOT on recirc, and you are idling, you can watch the temp go UP 20 degree...yes, 20 degrees. Once you start moving, it goes back down. Even set at 60, the lowest setting, while idling will result in vent temps of well...60 degrees. If i put it on recirc, it creeps down to 50, idling. If you are cruising down the road, 40 degrees is no problem.
I think this is pretty normal behavior for AC in these conditions and truck, but my question is why. Why can't they design a system that will perform better than that? I know its humid because after abuot 4 minutes of idling there is a HUGE puddle of condesation under the truck. Most half ton trucks dont have this problem.
I think this is pretty normal behavior for AC in these conditions and truck, but my question is why. Why can't they design a system that will perform better than that? I know its humid because after abuot 4 minutes of idling there is a HUGE puddle of condesation under the truck. Most half ton trucks dont have this problem.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
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From: Millersville, MD
It sounds exactly like what most vehicles do in high humidity..... That's why the recirculation position is on there. So what's the prob with keeping it on RECIR? I do it with all my vehicles here in humid Maryland in the summer....until it gets so cold it forces me to up the temp!
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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I clean the cooling coils once a year which helps keep AC temp down. Or, it would be more accurate to say that if I didn't clean them for several years, it would make a huge difference when I finally did clean them.
Without proper air flow, you're not going to get the required heat exchange. And, if it's only cooling when you're moving, a portion of the cooling coil fins are probably blocked.
Without proper air flow, you're not going to get the required heat exchange. And, if it's only cooling when you're moving, a portion of the cooling coil fins are probably blocked.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
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From: San Diego, CA
You can blow some compressed air through the cooler to make sure that there aren't any clogs for airflow (be careful not to damage any fins).
There's little to no airflow across the condenser during city driving (unless your engine fan is running, and even then it's no comparison to freeway driving), so your A/C efficiency is much lower at slower speeds. Granted, even though it's not as effienct, the Super Duty's A/C performance leaves a lot to be desired. You'd think that a heavy duty truck with a heavy duty cooling system for the engine (8+ freakin' gallons!) would have a heavy duty cooling system for the cab!
I try to avoid recirc since that recycles the cabin air. I prefer fresh air when I can. Unfortunately my A/C is so bad that if it's more than 75F outside, I get almost no cooling unless I'm on the freeway or in recirc. I'm on the fence about trying a charge or if I should evacuate the whole system for a complete refill.
There's little to no airflow across the condenser during city driving (unless your engine fan is running, and even then it's no comparison to freeway driving), so your A/C efficiency is much lower at slower speeds. Granted, even though it's not as effienct, the Super Duty's A/C performance leaves a lot to be desired. You'd think that a heavy duty truck with a heavy duty cooling system for the engine (8+ freakin' gallons!) would have a heavy duty cooling system for the cab!
I try to avoid recirc since that recycles the cabin air. I prefer fresh air when I can. Unfortunately my A/C is so bad that if it's more than 75F outside, I get almost no cooling unless I'm on the freeway or in recirc. I'm on the fence about trying a charge or if I should evacuate the whole system for a complete refill.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,849
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From: Seattle
The new refridgerants used in all newer vehicles do not work as efficiently as the old R12 did so the systems do not cool as well as the old systems. The old systems also had better control valves on them which also provided better, more efficient temperature control in the cabin. Unfortunately the EPA and tree huggers caused these items to be replaced with lighter, cheaper components that do not operate as efficiently as the old, heavy parts did, in the government mandated quest for better fuel economy. Dan
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
I would used compressed air. I have read that using water can be effective, but whatever you can't wash out will dry in there even worse than before.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2005
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Thats strange. Mine is at 40 while running. Thats about as cold as you will ever see it. At idle, it should move up a little, or a bit depending on conditions. Not sure why yours would be UP at highway speeds. Low charge?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,537
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From: Long Beach, Ms.
Time to get some electric fans. Mount them to blow inward through the condenser. Wire them to activate when the AC is on. The supplemental Air flow will go a long way to reliving the temp problem. It will also improve your gas mileage as the AC will not have to cycle on as often to maintain cabin temps.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2003
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Seriously though, just look forward about 4 feet. It's in front of radiator. If you can whack the bumper with your knee, you're as close as you can get.