i have plans of building up my 400 sometime in the near future. have been throwin certain things around. this motor goes in my 77 F250. i have a list of certain things, would like your opinions and such on what i have. give reccomendations please.
i already have a good dizzy, edelbrock performer intake, Holley 4 barrel carb, 1" aluminum torque spacer

Jegs
-Edelbrock Cam/Lifters kit
350-2172
$154.99
-MSD Ignition box
121-6200
$170.99
-MSD Ignition box wiring adapter
121-8869
$14.99
-Cloyes Timing Chain
220-C3005K
$26.99
-Heddman Headers
500-89360
$224.99
-Melling HV Oil pump
689-M84AHV
$43.99
-Mr. Gasket Gasket set
720-7127
$37.99

i really would like to do something with my rotating assembly. such as new bearings, bore between .030 and .040 over, and possibly deck surfaces and shave heads (last is just a possibility)

what would you recomend for this?
i know im goin on and on, but i want to know exactly what im doin, and if its right for this build up. i have rebuilt probably 20 some engines out of Ford model T's, and those are so much easier than anything like this. i have never actually completely "rebuilt" a 400 before. im not the best at understanding timing. i will need any and all help i can get for this project. i am only 17, so i just cant be throwing huge money at this. have worked very hard for everything i want 2 do to this truck

any help is appriciated,
Thanks,
Zach

P.S. anybody have a possible range of hp or torque? i know i have a broad topic and question, but just a thought

 

another thing. what if i kept the origional crank and rods (if in qualifiable shape) and went with some TMeyer Hypereutectic pistons? but do these come with new wrist pins?
would you guys say that the clevite bearings are a good replacement?

 

Do the basic bottom end stuff first. First take a new lifter and check the fit on the right side of the block in all the bores. Align hone the mains, get the rods resized with new bolts, balance it, & deck the block, deburr everything & champher the oil holes in the crank.

 

Be careful when milling heads and decking the block it can cause intake manifold fit issues if they don't mill off the intake port face as well. I don't really like that cam it has a lot of duration and not much lift for use in a big heavy truck. I would shoot for something in the 270 degree range or less. I think there is a comp or a crane that the guys here rave about can't remember the number, my truck has a crane cam it is .524lift/272adv duration and I wouldn't go any bigger runs good but is a little soft under 2000rpms. The Edelbrock is .484lift/282adv duration on the intake side just seems like a lot of duration with out much lift it will make power at a higher rpm but even so seems like it should have more lift than it does. There are guys here that have messed with this a lot more than me cam selections is a big topic around here have you tried searching? Like mark a. said I would skip on the MSD box and do internal stuff like balancing, crank turning, and line boring if needed. Like you said money is hard to come buy do the internal stuff that can't be done later and save up for the goodies and put them on as you can afford to, heck it might run so good you won't even want that box after its done.
-Johnboy

 

I will second skipping the MSD stuff. That is a lot of money and if you're not breaking the 5500 rpm mark, I don't think there's any reason not to use a Duraspark setup with a good coil.

 

the msd boxwas just kind of an optional thing. its nice to put the optionalthings in ur budget that way you dont necessarily have to get them incase u go over on 1 or two certain things a little bit.
so if igot it right, your saying to just put it into the rotating assembly, and go out from there?
how do the bearings and pistons and stuff from tmeyer sound to you guys?
is the cam the crane 262? i think thats what alot of people are likeing. what about a crower cam. i like a little bit of a lope, but what ever gets good torque.

 

I'm using the TMI/KB pistons for the o.e.m. heads and they do come with wrist pins. You will have to specify what rings you prefer, most people go with the moly, but your machinist should tell you what type ring you should get. Also, don't order your pistons until you know for sure what your finish hone size will be. I'm using the Comp Cam 255 DEH in my engine, TMeyer said that's a good choice for my use. I'm not looking for high rpm's but better low rpm torque for hauling and towing. I've had this 79 2wd for nearly 20 yrs and planning on keeping it for along time to come.

 

so dont order anything till after my machining is done?

 

Your not going to know for certain what size the finish hone will be, so wait to order your piston set untill your machinist gives that info. Everything else can be ordered ahead of time.
Sam

 

so other than that, does everything seem to be lookin good for a nice build?

 

I would call Tim Meyer (1-507-238-4141) and get his opinion on what you would like to do, He is a good guy and knows everything about these engines.

 

anywhere from comp 256-262 seems to be the recommended cams, good for low end tourque, i think it was the 256 that actually gave you some mpg too

 

well, my truck isnt goin to b able to get anywhere near "good" gas milage. i think i would probably just end up goin with the 262. i just need to find a good deal on some machining

 

ok, so i just bought a running 400 yesterday. i know where it has came from and who owned it. its a trustworthy motor. got it for $50. but anyhow, what would you guys recomend being my first step after i have it all tore down?

 

I think you do the stuff that Mark suggested up there. Degrease everything, take inventory of what you have, check the lifter bores, send it out for machining, let them make sure it's all in good shape and machine it, order your parts, put it together.