Ford Dump Truck
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 9
From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Jake the "se" refers to a now obsolete grade of motor oil. The letters designate the additive package blended into the oil when it's refined. I forget what the newest is but modern oils will be fine in your 330. The only time this becomes a problem is if you put high detergent oil into a very old engine that been using non detergent oil. The high detergent oil will wash out any sludge build up. Any heavy sludge will inevitably plug the oil pickup screen. You can safely change old engines designed for non detergent oil over to modern oils if it's done with an overhaul while everything is still clean.
30 wt HD oil won't cause you any problems however depending on where you live you may want to change to a lighter grade in cold weather months.
I would stay with a 7 lb rad cap. If you install a higher pressure cap and the rad is a bit weak you might find yourself searching for a rad.
30 wt HD oil won't cause you any problems however depending on where you live you may want to change to a lighter grade in cold weather months.I would stay with a 7 lb rad cap. If you install a higher pressure cap and the rad is a bit weak you might find yourself searching for a rad.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Fredericktown, Pa
hello all again.
its been a while since i last posted on here. i have been working on the truck i have here and there. fixing some patches in the....well....everywhere lol. the floor mainly. but anyways, i have been finding some evidence that the cab looks to have been replaced at one time. so i am thinking the SN for the truck i gave you might not be for this truck. Now this brings me back to my original question of the engine in the truck. What type of engine is in it. Is there a way i could measure the block, heads, or maybe find some markings on the engine block itself of what it might be? I know on old dodges you could measure the block and do some calculations but not sure how to on the V8 engines.
Also, i am not sure if it will help, but if at all helps, here is some information on the Carb. Motorcraft badge D5TE BRA 6J30 Holley 4 barrel. I have a problem with this too. the first 2 barrels towards the front open no problem. but the rear 2 will not unless you use your hand. Do you think my diaphragm that pulls the lever to open it is shot? I have checked all connections and hoses. they are all good. bolts are tight and everything. rebuilt it once, maybe I should go for the more expensive rebuild kit?
its been a while since i last posted on here. i have been working on the truck i have here and there. fixing some patches in the....well....everywhere lol. the floor mainly. but anyways, i have been finding some evidence that the cab looks to have been replaced at one time. so i am thinking the SN for the truck i gave you might not be for this truck. Now this brings me back to my original question of the engine in the truck. What type of engine is in it. Is there a way i could measure the block, heads, or maybe find some markings on the engine block itself of what it might be? I know on old dodges you could measure the block and do some calculations but not sure how to on the V8 engines.
Also, i am not sure if it will help, but if at all helps, here is some information on the Carb. Motorcraft badge D5TE BRA 6J30 Holley 4 barrel. I have a problem with this too. the first 2 barrels towards the front open no problem. but the rear 2 will not unless you use your hand. Do you think my diaphragm that pulls the lever to open it is shot? I have checked all connections and hoses. they are all good. bolts are tight and everything. rebuilt it once, maybe I should go for the more expensive rebuild kit?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Now this brings me back to my original question of the engine in the truck. What type of engine is in it. Is there a way i could measure the block, heads, or maybe find some markings on the engine block itself of what it might be? I know on old dodges you could measure the block and do some calculations but not sure how to on the V8 engines.
Also, i am not sure if it will help, but if at all helps, here is some information on the Carb. Motorcraft badge D5TE-BRA 6J30 Holley 4 barrel.
I have a problem with this too. the first 2 barrels towards the front open no problem. but the rear 2 will not unless you use your hand. Do you think my diaphragm that pulls the lever to open it is shot? I have checked all connections and hoses. they are all good. bolts are tight and everything. rebuilt it once, maybe I should go for the more expensive rebuild kit?
Also, i am not sure if it will help, but if at all helps, here is some information on the Carb. Motorcraft badge D5TE-BRA 6J30 Holley 4 barrel.
I have a problem with this too. the first 2 barrels towards the front open no problem. but the rear 2 will not unless you use your hand. Do you think my diaphragm that pulls the lever to open it is shot? I have checked all connections and hoses. they are all good. bolts are tight and everything. rebuilt it once, maybe I should go for the more expensive rebuild kit?
6J30 = Assembled September (J) 30, 1976 (6).
FOPZ9A586P .. 4V Holley Carburetor Kit (Motorcraft CT215E) / FOPZ9A586P replaced D5PZ9A586H (Motorcraft CT215A) / Obsolete
Original D5TZ9510BR carb applications: 1975/78: F750 / C750/850 / L/LN700/800 ALL with a 391 4V.
The 391 4V could very well be the engine your truck has in it now, since the 330 & 361 FT engines did not come with 4V's.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Fredericktown, Pa
hey,
the information certainly does help me out! :-) i like the results i see so far. as for pictures, i can take some pictures this weekend of the engine and try to post them. as for the VIN on the frame, where about do you think would it be located....please dont say beind the vacuum assist brake booster lol. i dont really want to take that thing off haha. thanks again!
the information certainly does help me out! :-) i like the results i see so far. as for pictures, i can take some pictures this weekend of the engine and try to post them. as for the VIN on the frame, where about do you think would it be located....please dont say beind the vacuum assist brake booster lol. i dont really want to take that thing off haha. thanks again!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
hey,
the information certainly does help me out! :-) i like the results i see so far. as for pictures, i can take some pictures this weekend of the engine and try to post them. as for the VIN on the frame, where about do you think would it be located....please dont say beind the vacuum assist brake booster lol. i dont really want to take that thing off haha. thanks again!
the information certainly does help me out! :-) i like the results i see so far. as for pictures, i can take some pictures this weekend of the engine and try to post them. as for the VIN on the frame, where about do you think would it be located....please dont say beind the vacuum assist brake booster lol. i dont really want to take that thing off haha. thanks again!
One FT engine looks identical to another FT engine. Ditto for FE engines.
The frame VIN will be of no help if the engine has been changed.
If the VIN on the Warranty Plate matches the VIN on the registration, hunting for a hidden VIN on the frame rail is a waste of your time.
I cannot see someone going thru the trouble of swapping body parts around on a BIG truck.
What you need to do is look on the block near the starter for the block's date code, like this example: 6K30 = Cast October (K) 30, 1976 (6).
Once you determine what year the block is, then you need to measure the stroke to determine the engine size.
I do not know what the stroke is for the various FT engines.
Since the carb (and the intake manifold) is from a 391, and the carb was assembled 9/1976, it's possible your truck...has a 391 4V originally installed in a 1977 or 1978 truck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
The reason I suggested the vin on the frame is the referance about the cab may have been changed and they used the cab vin to title it (fairly common).
The only thing the pictures of the engine will do is verify it is a ft engine and has not been swapped for say an fe. stranger things have happened I have seen a couple of these old rigs with an olds in them.
The only thing the pictures of the engine will do is verify it is a ft engine and has not been swapped for say an fe. stranger things have happened I have seen a couple of these old rigs with an olds in them.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
The main reason why ppl swap cabs is rust. Rust is not a major factor in the desert southwest, or in southern states.
The usual problem is...people swap left doors due to damage with used doors. 99% of the time, they do not install the correct warranty plate on the replaced door.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
Yea the doors are probably more common but I have swapped several cabs and have 2 that I have at the present time one 77 to a 76 and one 85 going on an 84 and I'm sure that other people besides me are doing it too. That is why I said fairly common and he mentioned that he thought the cab might have been changed. When I change the cab I keep a record of the old vin so I can use it for any drivetrain parts but a rig that has been sold a few times this may get lost.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
Likes: 9
From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
Bill, with all due respect, swapping body parts on medium and heavy duty trucks is more common than most folks realize. Usually it is due to accident damage. Insurance carriers and fleet owners will often go to extremes to repair trucks equipped with things like cranes or railroad gear due to the high cost of replacing them. Replacing frame rails is not unheard of. In some cases however some owners just refuse to let them die. I'm currently rewiring a 90 Peterbilt with a million plus miles. It was side swiped when the owner bought it for salvage. It's been rolled over twice since he's owned it. The frame is supporting it's 3rd cab.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Fredericktown, Pa
The reasons i say the cab has been changed out is this.
1. the frame and the cab meet on the frame rails. the rubber bushings do not hold the cab up off the frame
2. the hood does not line up properly when its shut.
3. under the hood, it looks like some engine side panels are not bolted back together
4. the wiring for the head lights was put back and wired together cheaply
seriously, they use wire nuts for home uses, when you turn the headlights on, the parking lights go out,
5. the fuel tank rubs up against the front running board
6. the whole inside of the cab at one point was torn apart. from top to bottom. no headliner, bad wiring for the cab lights, welding on the roof.
these are just some of the signs to me that the cab has been changed over.
1. the frame and the cab meet on the frame rails. the rubber bushings do not hold the cab up off the frame
2. the hood does not line up properly when its shut.
3. under the hood, it looks like some engine side panels are not bolted back together
4. the wiring for the head lights was put back and wired together cheaply
seriously, they use wire nuts for home uses, when you turn the headlights on, the parking lights go out,
5. the fuel tank rubs up against the front running board
6. the whole inside of the cab at one point was torn apart. from top to bottom. no headliner, bad wiring for the cab lights, welding on the roof.
these are just some of the signs to me that the cab has been changed over.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Fredericktown, Pa
hey guys,
i have the pics as you requested, but they are in my profile album. im not sure how to post them on here. but if you look at the album you should be able to see them. hope they work for you.
i have the pics as you requested, but they are in my profile album. im not sure how to post them on here. but if you look at the album you should be able to see them. hope they work for you.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
Hard to tell from the pictures but that does look like the ft waterpump so more than likely original motor or at least has been kept to the original configuration. Still hase the oil bath too.
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