Notices
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Engine Oil recommendations

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:15 PM
  #16  
joe f350's Avatar
joe f350
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,513
Likes: 2
From: concord ca
i use lucas good oil
 
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:55 PM
  #17  
1994diesel's Avatar
1994diesel
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 576
Likes: 0
From: Central Coast CA
i noticed a small difference in idle smoothness when i used Restore 8 cylinder formula.

it might have been me, but it felt better.
 
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #18  
wreckinball's Avatar
wreckinball
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
yeah i looked at the restore product but i like the idea of lucas components better. just looking for something simple and effective to keep this engine running for one year. Next tax season i will throw in a drop in engine and have a rebuild truck totally. haha!
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 07:36 AM
  #19  
Jim Allen's Avatar
Jim Allen
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 559
Likes: 4
From: On a farm.
Originally Posted by wreckinball
lmao!!! will do broski! so with recomendations would it be safe/smart to use lucas to get my engine more sound on the inside?
I wouldn't. The problem with adding chemistry to chemistry is that the elements are not always compatible (despite what the maker of the "magic juice" may say). That's assuming the stuff has anything in it. Some of these pour-in additives have been tested to see what they contain and many have very little of any use. They don't do much harm because they are nothing but a high viscosity (thick) base oil with a few trace elements. There are some more expensive ones that contain useful amounts of good things but then you have to worry if they are compatible with the additive package in the oil you use. If you were to ask any oil company or one of their tribologists (a chemist who specializes in lubricants) they'll tell you not to add anything. If you KNOW what's in your oil and KNOW what's in the oil supplement, sometimes you can play amateur tribologist and concoct something good. If you don't know enough to do that, I'd steer clear.

The bottom line for judging any pour in oil supplement you see out there is often price. If it's cheap, there likely nothing useful in it. Waste of moola. The expensive stuff may have some good and useful additives but, again, is it compatible with the additive package in your oil?

Basically, your oil will do the best job all alone (unless you are use "Joes Recycled Dino Doo" or something). Nothing you pour in the crankcase will put worn metal back on parts. A good oil will have a seal softener to keep seals pliable. It will have a strong detergent package to break up gunk and good dispersants to keep that gunk in suspension until it reaches the filter or is drained. If the engine is really gunked up, the oil will gradually break that down. In many cases, truly, the gunk is not as harmful as it having it all come loose all at once. After all, it's been in there for a long time and the engine is still running???

Do you really know you are gunked up or are you judging the inside by the outside? I bought a tired, abused, neglected and 3/4 worn out (8200 hours, the equivalent of about 500,000 miles) tractor some years back for my small farm. It was cheap and I thought it would do for the job. I had cause to regret not spending more money. The first season, it was an "oil-o-haulic" and slurped oil like a skid-row wino goes after MD 20/20. I was dumping gallons into it. Along the way, I pulled the valve cover to adjust the valves and found the engine very clean inside, which was a surprise considering the amount of neglect it showed on the outside. I put in some good oil, a good filter and used the tractor the way it was designed to be used (the PO had not use the tractor very lightly for years, basically as a 100 hp lawnmower). Gradually, the oil consumption slowed and I went from using a coupla gallons per season to 1-2 quarts. I conclude that came from two things, the new oil and the hard work freed gunked up rings and worked the carbon buildup out of the bores and allowed the rings to seal better. The engine is now the best part of the tractor.. it runs well while the rest of the poor thing falls apart! Not one drop of oil supplemnt or cleaner was added.
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 10:53 AM
  #20  
wreckinball's Avatar
wreckinball
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
I looked inside and it looks ok but the oil in it is really bad, so i was just going to run a cycle through for about 1000 miles then switch to good ol fashioned amsoil. There is a guy up in duncan that sells it but other than that i can seem to find it anywhere around victoria. I have never been one to just pour things in at random because i see it as a waste, like the fuel additives, most of them are crap. Slick 50 for example was shown to do nothing in most labratory tests, not a damn thing. but it still sells because people think it is magic. I was just looking for something to soften the old fella up a bit and get him runnin smoother!!
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 04:02 PM
  #21  
Dean88's Avatar
Dean88
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 1
From: Sweetwater Texas
I run rotella 15w40, every now and then I put Lucas in it if I can get it onsale.
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 05:53 PM
  #22  
Hamberger's Avatar
Hamberger
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 3
From: Ladner, British Columbia
Oil

Well I have run 10W30 instead of the recommended 15W40 ever since I bought my truck in 1993. I also add a liter (sometimes two) of DURALUBE at every oil change.

It keeps that motor clean as a whistle. Changed the rockercover Gaskets last year and the head and covers were as clean as if they just came out of the factory. I remember working on some old gassers where you could barely make out the valve springs, the covers had like 5 pounds of crap built up on them. Given that the oil in the diesels is a lot dirtier to start with, I am impressed with the way Duralube kept my motor clean inside.

I got 250kkm on it now and it barely uses a liter of oil between oil changes. I think the turbo uses most of that to boot.

Seb...
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #23  
sportsmobile1988's Avatar
sportsmobile1988
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: San Clemente, CA
I'm with Jim. If it looks gunky just step up the changes/filters and it will take care of itself. My old 6.2 Suburban ran Rotella T full synthetic 5w-40 changed at every 3k-5k, monitered the SCA's and is still running after 25 years and at just over 415k on the original motor. I'll be doing the same on my E350. Miracles are rare in life and I certainly believe they don't pour out of an additive bottle either. (although I do occasionally run a bottle of a good fuel system additive to keep the inj system happy) Just pick one and stick with it. I'm going to run 15w-40 Rotella (I bought a 5 gallon bucket on sale) to clean things out and check for leaks then switch to full synthetic after the bucket's gone. Oh yeah, I use Wix filters.
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #24  
wreckinball's Avatar
wreckinball
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
yeah it was a shock when i figured out how much oil it takes!! definitely a good buy when you get the five gallon/20L bucket. Good savings here too, considering canadian tire charges 84 for he first six quarts then four for each additional quart of crap oil. bringing the total after taxes to almost 120 dollars. I can do two changes with filters for that. It is just getting rid of the old oil after wards. what do you guys do with it?
 
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #25  
joe f350's Avatar
joe f350
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 8,513
Likes: 2
From: concord ca
just take it to a giffy lube and get a 20 dollor oil change
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2009 | 12:23 AM
  #26  
sportsmobile1988's Avatar
sportsmobile1988
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: San Clemente, CA
We have free oil and filter recycling at most chain type auto supply stores, no purchase required at most. Kragen, O'Reilly, CarQuest, or try the phone book under Recycling. Call the City and ask them. They should know. They may even let you go to their maintenance yard and dump it. The Fire Dept used to do it back in the 70's on occasion.
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2009 | 01:54 AM
  #27  
starmilt's Avatar
starmilt
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
Several of the members burn their used oil in the fuel.
I use lucas in all my trucks 15x40 rotella for oil if you use amsoil I wouldn't use lucas.
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #28  
Festus Hagen's Avatar
Festus Hagen
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Club FTE Gold Member
Find a local shop that uses a Waste Oil burner to heat with, They'll usually take all they can get.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #29  
wreckinball's Avatar
wreckinball
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
Yeah there are a few shops around my area that use them but with the weather being nice i am not sure they run them, maybe. Fewer and fewer smoke stacks rising in the evening and morning! Cant wait for summer!!!
 
Reply
Old May 1, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #30  
Festus Hagen's Avatar
Festus Hagen
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Club FTE Gold Member
Around here they'll take all they can get year around and that usually isn't enough.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:10 AM.