spark plug ignorant
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spark plug ignorant
Hey, I'm going to be changing out plugs on a buddys truck. It's a 2002 F350 with a 5.4L. Never done this before, anything in particular I should know going into this? I've heard it's an absolute nightmare.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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it is! well atleast on mine it was. $80 in spk plugs then after all was said and done $550 in labor at the dealer. I have on 06 250 SD and has the 3V triton and i snapped 4 plugs off in the head and had to have it towed to the dealer who havs a special tool made by ford for this problem and was able to get it with out really destroying the heads.
on the 02's i think you may be safe. I think they had problems more with plugs blowing out then gettig them stuck but i could be wrong. but here are some tips:
24hrs before soak the plugs with PB blaster or some really good penatrating lube.
then blast them down with carb cleaner to help loosen up any carbon that may cause plugs to sieze.
make sure the engine is cold when doing this, that will help. back the plugs out slowly about 1/2 turn. spay them again and screw it back in lightly to really soak them with oil. then take them outand re-apply oil as needed. that sould give you the best chance at success.
some have said putting mystery oil in the gas for one tank before changing them also helps out!
on the 02's i think you may be safe. I think they had problems more with plugs blowing out then gettig them stuck but i could be wrong. but here are some tips:
24hrs before soak the plugs with PB blaster or some really good penatrating lube.
then blast them down with carb cleaner to help loosen up any carbon that may cause plugs to sieze.
make sure the engine is cold when doing this, that will help. back the plugs out slowly about 1/2 turn. spay them again and screw it back in lightly to really soak them with oil. then take them outand re-apply oil as needed. that sould give you the best chance at success.
some have said putting mystery oil in the gas for one tank before changing them also helps out!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 147
From: San Diego, CA
I don't know if you have the 2V or 3V engine. I changed the plugs on my '97 F-150 5.4L (2V) and it took me all day. Be sure you have plenty of wobbles and universal joints for the extensions. Before it was all said and done I had to lift the driver's side of the fuel rail to reach all of the plugs (the rear ones were a PITA in the F-150 engine bay because the engine is partially recessed into the firewall). My dad laughed the whole time since his Chevy 8.1L took him 30 minutes...
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
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From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
It's not as easy as changing channels on your TV, so most folks would call it hard, I guess.
Me? Ehh, done easier, done harder.
Removal tricks depend on whether it is 2V or 3V. Let us know.
You absolutely, positively must NOT over OR under torque the new plugs! Ford did not idiot proof these as well as some. They are aluminum heads, and like all aluminum heads, are MUCH easier to strip than old iron heads. And since Ford used taper seat plugs instead of crush washer style, there is a lot less latitude for over-torquing. Combine that with less than generous amount of threads in some variants AND clueless gorillas doing sloppy installations and there have been a quite a few "spit" plugs - where the plug blows out, taking the threads with them. And a lot of whining and complaining. For some funny reason, those of us that use torque wrenches and follow specs seem to be minimally affected. Strange, that.
Anyway, spend a couple hours searching on changing plugs in Ford modular engines before proceeding.
Me? Ehh, done easier, done harder.
Removal tricks depend on whether it is 2V or 3V. Let us know.
You absolutely, positively must NOT over OR under torque the new plugs! Ford did not idiot proof these as well as some. They are aluminum heads, and like all aluminum heads, are MUCH easier to strip than old iron heads. And since Ford used taper seat plugs instead of crush washer style, there is a lot less latitude for over-torquing. Combine that with less than generous amount of threads in some variants AND clueless gorillas doing sloppy installations and there have been a quite a few "spit" plugs - where the plug blows out, taking the threads with them. And a lot of whining and complaining. For some funny reason, those of us that use torque wrenches and follow specs seem to be minimally affected. Strange, that.
Anyway, spend a couple hours searching on changing plugs in Ford modular engines before proceeding.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 238
Likes: 3
From: Eagle River, Alaska
Changed my plugs last year on my 2003 F250 5.4
It is a chore and I did remove a fuel rail. Biggest grief was getting the plug out from the bottom of the well. Duct tapped a tube that fits in the well to my shop vac. Suckedd the plug right out. Also good for all the dirt and crud in the well.
It is a chore and I did remove a fuel rail. Biggest grief was getting the plug out from the bottom of the well. Duct tapped a tube that fits in the well to my shop vac. Suckedd the plug right out. Also good for all the dirt and crud in the well.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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747 mech bring up a good point i forgot, these plugs each have their own "well". use a vaccum or i used an air gun to first blow out the area around the plugs, dirt and crud builds up in there and it will get into your engine or really mess up the seal
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Torque spec?
AAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is a difficult question to answer as there are a LOT of strong opinions, as well as several "published" specs.
Here's my PERSONAL specs for 2V (and I do expect others to disagree. Ultimately, you need to do your own research and make your own decision).
With anti-seize: about 13 lb-ft
Dry: about 20 lb-ft
This assumes the threads are clean, dry, and gall free. I use only the newest Motorcraft plugs.
Now I'll don my kevlar underwear....
AAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is a difficult question to answer as there are a LOT of strong opinions, as well as several "published" specs.
Here's my PERSONAL specs for 2V (and I do expect others to disagree. Ultimately, you need to do your own research and make your own decision).
With anti-seize: about 13 lb-ft
Dry: about 20 lb-ft
This assumes the threads are clean, dry, and gall free. I use only the newest Motorcraft plugs.
Now I'll don my kevlar underwear....
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Putnam Valley, New York
Plug torque
Spark plug torque spec from Ford is 11 foot pounds. Always put a dab of anti-sieze on the threads to keep them from siezing. The front 2 plugs on both sides are easy--the third is a pain, and the last plug on both sides is a big PITA !!!
RON
New User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 24
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From: Sardinia Ohio
I changed mine in my 03 5.4 on sunday the only PIA ones are the rear 2 on pass side. I used a 3 in and a 6 in snap-on wobble extension and a cheap 5/8 plug socket, my snap-on swivel socket won't fit into the well. Also a piece of old rubber fuel line to remove the plugs from the wells and start the treads putting them back in. about an hour and one scraped knuckle. Almost forgot the COPS take a 7 mm and a 6 in extension 1/4 in drive and plenty of dielectric grease for putting them back. Follow Tractors advise and blow out the wells before removing plugs..
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: The Great White North!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...th-photos.html
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,243
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From: Roman Forest, TX
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. About an 8-pack, 4-6 hour job. I was a little apprehensive at first, but once I got in there and got going, twarnt nothin. Page two of this thread shows my experience.
Good luck!
Good luck!
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
I did the ones in my V10 to 14ft/lbs with anti-seize.
The 2002 5.4 is a 2-valve.