Red Baron, I know you posted a while ago but I would bet the blue connector for the egr cooler is the reason for your coolant leak. I also did the arp's without pulling the cab, ac box, or engine. I understand you removed the motor mounts, when I did mine I just used rubber bands wrapped around the studs holding them up and installed the studs in the heads before reinstalling the heads. I am assuming that you removed the mounts because of the clearance needed to install the studs. I also understand that you didn't want to remove the heads. Did you unbolt the trans? I used a engine hoist to pull the heads off. My new truck has no signs of HG probs, and I already have the arp's here for the change. However I will be removing the heads and replacing the hg's. I would be interested in how it is going now.

 

Just wondering how it turned out? And what is the difference in tourque between the bolts and studs? Thanks.

 

I just replaced the factory head bolts in the new engine I am putting in my truck. I checked the torque on several before I removed them. My torque wrench showed around 165 ft lb's

 

Outstanding as a mechanic for 30yrs I knew it could be done without replacing the head gaskets and knew thats the way I was going to do them I was told it couldn't be done. You can bet I won't worry about not replacing the gaskets. Congrats John

 

So, what part of CA are you in? I'm wanting to do headstuds and can use a good mechanic who knows what he's doing.

 

I live right next door to Nancy Pelosi. No difference between her and a hemorrhoid, they are both a PITA.

DSMMH

 

Gasp!?!?! the Lizard Woman lives next to you? LOL sorry that is what she reminds me of. I ordered my ARP's from Brown's Diesel last night and am going to start tearing down this afternoon to prepare for install as per your instructions. Just wanted to say thanks for the writeup, and I'll post unforeseen problems or issues.

 

OK, I tried not to leave anything out. If you get to a point where I did not give any guidance, let me know and I'll try to help.

DSMMH

 

I started ripping into mine today. I only had about two hours of daylight but got everything taken out from around and off the top of the engine in that time. It wasn't the first time i've taken it down so it went pretty quick. Wish my compresser wouldn't have taken a dump on me it would have made it alot quicker. I am ready to open the valve covers when the studs get here. It looks like it will be tight on the lower rear drivers side bolt, and the HVAC is definately a menacing looking obstacle. I am considering pulling the HVAC do to it only being 6 bolts and a couple connections. compared to having to remove motor mounts and the power steering pump. The only thing keeping me from it the having to evacuate and refill the refrigerant.
I am feeling better about not changing the gaskets especially after reading some posts on a couple of other forums where guys had changed them out one by one and have been hauling and tuning with no problems.

 

Well I got my ARP's in this evening and got the driver side in with no problems. I'm gonna start on the passenger side tomorrow. My only issue is that in the instructions that came with my studs it has that they should be torqed in 3 equal increments up to 210 lbs. I know everybody has been torquing them to 245 and 250, so I am at a standstill at 210 lbs for now. Any suggestions, comments?

Heres a scan of the instructions:

 

They changed assembly lube to a much better lubricant, so the torque required went down. There are a few threads about it. The new lube yields much more consistent clamping force.

 

ther never was a a 6.0 that couldent be rode and never was a tech that couldnt be throwed.

 

Thanks, I did multiple searches and couldn't come up with anything so I torqued to a happy medium of 225lb. I know I probably should have stuck with 210lb but I didn't think that there would be any risk especially when the old instructions say 245lb.

The studs are in. The lower center bolt on the passenger side (#2 in the torque sequence) was a PITA to remove until I found that there is a cover on the HVAC that can be removed without unhooking the refrigerant lines. It about 8 - 6 or 8mm bolts and it comes right off and exposes what I think is the heater core, the rest of the HVAC stay in place. Once I took it off I had plenty of room to pull them out. I did not remove the driver side motor mount or the powersteering pump, I just unbolted both motor mounts from the frame and jacked the engine up on the side I was working on.

Quality tools would have helped I went through a craftsman 11/16 socket that decided to crack on me but never gave and two torque wrenches doing this job. My craftsman torque wrench only went to 150lb so I bought a kobalt from lowes, and ended up ripping the handle completely off of it when pulling at 200lb. So I took it back and bought one from the local automotive store. At 225 I was sheering teeth off. These were smooth pulls, I am fat but I don't bounce. Unfortinately on one of my pulls the teeth let loose and I snapped the sensor that sits in the middle of the passenger side valve cover completely off. Does anyone know what this sensor is? I have looked in my Hanes manual and the 6.0 Bible and have not been able to find anything.

 

ICP sensor?

In photo 1 on the right side of this page, the hose is connected to the right side valve cover through the ICP connection. Is this the location of the sensor you broke off?

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-17.php

 

^^^^^^^ what he said. He was faster.

ICP Sensor is located on the passenger valve cover. "early build" 6.0's the icp was on the rear of motor. They then placed it on the valve cover.