GTP38R's Are Here!!!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
Likes: 5
From: Lancaster, Pa.
Unreal, still in awe..
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 13,144
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From: Rochdale MA
Congrat to both you and Eddie, Mike. Happy Modding.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Thanks Huck, means alot
Thanks Jim, today, you and J-L rock
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
I think you're ready. Are you going to gut the EBPV before you swap it over, or just leave it stock?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 10,977
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Good deal, looking foward to it.. I was going to leave it stock, gets pretty cold up here in the winter and that helps but if I decided to do that, can I get rid of the EBP tube that runs along the front of the motor down to the exhaust header?? Is that conected in any way Scott?? Just seen Mike's post above, subscribing, is it???
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
If you get rid of the EBV sensor and tube you'll have to get one of those plugs that fools it into thinking it's still there. To get rid of the actuator itself you physically remove it from the housing and disconnect the electrical connector at the base of the pedestal.
Mike's post was poking fun at me from when I had the heads off. I plugged the wrong harness into the IPR, which is a mistake that happened because I don't have an EBPV anymore and I got the two plugs confused.....so no, it isn't.
Mike's post was poking fun at me from when I had the heads off. I plugged the wrong harness into the IPR, which is a mistake that happened because I don't have an EBPV anymore and I got the two plugs confused.....so no, it isn't.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Damon (South East Texas)
I'm just going by the instruction sheet. 
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
That's funny Scott, but not what I was talking about. I was told to put oil in the top of the center cartridge before starting it up the first time. This is supposed to ensure lube and not having a dry spin up until oil gets there on first start.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
IMVHO pre-oiling is a non issue. Ball bearings will "break in" but you pretty much have to be spinning it full boogie under a load to get it to wear into the journals. Plus it will be at pressure within about five seconds of turning the key, so a little film of oil really isn't going to help, or hurt, anything.
It's one of those situations that if it gives one piece of mind to do, then do it. Personally I prefer a clean, oil free mating surface.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Middle Tennessee
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Ah, ok now I'm following. Finally.
I had one of the early 38r's that came with no sealant of any kind on the plug. If I remember correctly after I started the truck, by the time I got out of the cab and walked around to leak check it there was already a leak there. I'm not sure exactly by what route the LPOP feeds the turbo, but the flow there happens very quickly.
I had one of the early 38r's that came with no sealant of any kind on the plug. If I remember correctly after I started the truck, by the time I got out of the cab and walked around to leak check it there was already a leak there. I'm not sure exactly by what route the LPOP feeds the turbo, but the flow there happens very quickly.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Lancaster, Pa.
Well, my wife is home, and she's doing fine now, thanks for the well wishes as always. I'll still be taking care of everything so she can rest up completely and she said to me on the ride home "You can't wait to put that turbo in, can you" And I said
. So between taking care of mom, turbo time...I'll start early tomorrow morning tearing everything down so when Adam comes down Sat, it will be alot easier.
. So between taking care of mom, turbo time...I'll start early tomorrow morning tearing everything down so when Adam comes down Sat, it will be alot easier.