Oil Priming Fresh Rebuilt Engine
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
Oil Priming Fresh Rebuilt Engine
I have placed this into the Small Block Forum as well. (More eyes, more help!)
I have rebuilt a couple of other engines types in the past but this is my first Ford. I have a 5.0L that I am getting ready to crank for the first time. As with my other engines, I primed the oil system by turning the oil pump with a modified distributor shaft. The pumped primed very quickly but soon after the oil filter blew its gasket. I immediately stopped, investigated, replaced the gasket and proceeded. My second attempt resutled the same. I removed the filter, checked for any blockages and spun the pump with the filter off. Oil flowed freely as I would have expected. On my third attempt all seemed well. I began to see oil flowing from the rockers.
Can anybody provide some enlightenment as to what happened and to things that I may need to check prior to attempting to start the engine?
I have rebuilt a couple of other engines types in the past but this is my first Ford. I have a 5.0L that I am getting ready to crank for the first time. As with my other engines, I primed the oil system by turning the oil pump with a modified distributor shaft. The pumped primed very quickly but soon after the oil filter blew its gasket. I immediately stopped, investigated, replaced the gasket and proceeded. My second attempt resutled the same. I removed the filter, checked for any blockages and spun the pump with the filter off. Oil flowed freely as I would have expected. On my third attempt all seemed well. I began to see oil flowing from the rockers.
Can anybody provide some enlightenment as to what happened and to things that I may need to check prior to attempting to start the engine?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
Sounds like a cheapie filter? How tight did you install it? Might be too loose, could be too tight too. In all the years, I've never had one have any problems, but I also open every box before I buy it to make sure it HAS the rubber ring, it's installed correctly and the threads are good. Always got a Motorcraft(or at least a Fram in a pinch). I've run way over 100# oil pressure thru some of my motors and never had a failure.
I would be leery with that filter and use it for break in only and change it before heading on the road.
What kind of pressure does it prime up to? Shouldn't be anywhere near causing a problem, unless your relief spring is stuck in the pump.
I would be leery with that filter and use it for break in only and change it before heading on the road.
What kind of pressure does it prime up to? Shouldn't be anywhere near causing a problem, unless your relief spring is stuck in the pump.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 3
Thx for replying. I am using a Fram ToughGuard. I will definitly swap it out after initial break in. Trying to connect up the oil pres. guage to see. In my other post someone had said something that made me think that I tried to run the drill too fast too soon. My third attempt netted oil from all rockers and no blown gasket. The pump is new but now questioning the relief spring as you have suggested. Will post more on the pressure as soon as I can.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Here we go again- You couldn't pay me to put a Fram oil filter on anything.
Use a Motorcraft, you can get them at wal-mart for less than the Fram. Use a good diesel oil for the break-in as well.
Use a Motorcraft, you can get them at wal-mart for less than the Fram. Use a good diesel oil for the break-in as well.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I run a Fram HP1 on the race car motor. No problems, as Motorcraft HP's are hard to come by around here anymore.
That drill never spun it fast enough to blow it, as it would open the relief valve first if it did.
That drill never spun it fast enough to blow it, as it would open the relief valve first if it did.
