On my way to New Mexico, I had to constantly watch the pyro. My EGT's could shoot up, 300 degrees in 30 feet of travel. I also could not utilize the power of the engine. All considered I had a horrible drive. I tried to keep the engine RPM at 2200, but the Pyro would shoot up to 1200 degrees. I've been told to back off slightly before 1200, so I tried to hold them under 1150. I could never put the truck in OD after Sweetwater, Tx. so I had to drive in 4th at 53 mph. I had a 35 mph headwind, but my wife driving a Navigator and actually pulling a heavier load had no problems.

The only explanation I can think of is the 2 flats of fuel adjustment to the IP. I was looking at 5 lbs of boost at 2200 RPM. I never saw over 6 lbs of boost total. Not a lot of smoke and ran like a charm. Once I hit the mountains, I could not give the engine over 25% throttle, and when I headed up a hill the Pyro would go to 1200 degrees. I could not maintain any speed up the mountain and when I got to the top I would be in 2nd or 3rd.

The NA engine had more power actually. At least I could down shift and floor it. I don't know what my egt's were, but it never gave any trouble. It just smoked and was weak as hell.

The engine has power to spare now, I can feel it, I just can't use it. I know there is a solution and maybe you guys can help. I may need to back the injector pump 110 degrees and give it another go and see if it continues to run hot. It seems to me that before increased the fuel, I was getting about 3 lbs of boost.

The entire 1800 miles was run with the EGT's sitting between 1000 and 1150. frequently bumping 1200. The engine starts and runs great, I hope I didn't damage it.

Thanks in advance

 

By the way, It did not use one drop of oil. Still on the full mark when I arrived. I also added a little 2 stroke oil and diesel service additive to the fuel tank.

 

i the pryo in the right plae did u cut thee pyro wire when u put it in i herd that could thro it way off

 

I almost wonder if your pyro was not set up right. Mine was reading half of what it should when I first installed it because of a switch on the back of the gauge that that would be set for different lengths of sensor lead wire. Maybe you are having the opposite happening.

If you have access to a high temperature IR thermometer, that might help rule that in our out as the cause for your high heat readings.

I really find it hard to believe that you are getting that much heat without smoke at only 5-6 PSI of boost.

If I'm cruising with a light trailer at 70 MPH, my truck will indicate about 600-700 EGTs and others have reported similar numbers. I would double check your pyro before worrying too much about how the turbo and fuel are set up.

Heres a question for you; what does the pyro indicate when the engine is idling for a long time after a drive?

 

That sounds the same as my truck. I just came back on a trip with my truck and 7,000 lbs trailer. Same as you I was at 1200 on my pyro with 25% down on the gas peddal. I started at turning my pump up 2 flats and I am clear down to one flat for this trip. I am putting 10 psi out of my turbo with the trailer. I would like any advice too.

 

It will quickly go down to 300 and stay there. The EGT readings drop as fast as they go up. I can be bumping off of 1200 degrees and I can back off the throttle and in 100 yards I'm back at 600. this thing goes up and down like a yo-yo.

 

and ur a rocket sicence and ur stumped

 

the Pyro has 2 wires and they have a connection. I did not install it, but they guy who did is a much better wrench than I am. Its an Auto Meter Pyro and has 2 leads to the thermocouple. It also needs 12 volts to power the unit. I would say its an electrical guage.

 

I will look at the back of the guage and see it it has a setting. Is your pyro an autometer unit.

 

With that dump bed a 35mph head wind is going to put a big load on your truck. But from what you are describing it sounds like you should be putting out a good amount of smoke and you aren't. My auto meter doesn't have a switch and I belive they sell 2 diffrent gauges one for each length of lead wire.

 

I have to admit, I am stumped.

 

I bought the guage and thermocouple from a guy in michigan. He had it on a mustang. It looked new and he had all the instructions with it. I may have a bad thermocouple or guage.

 

the dump is like a sail and some items actually stuck up over the bed. I had 3 antique bikes on an open trailer and about 1.5 tons on the truck. The truck was not stressed out. The wind was so strong you literally could not hold your hand out at 60 mph. I did not run a/c, because the a/c affected the egt's. that said the navigator was towing an enclosed trailer with over a ton of weight and had no problems.

I knew I had the power to cruise 70 with a/c, but could not use it.

I could call autometer, I'll try to find out the thermocouple and guage number. This is not the top of the autometer line.

 

are u shure ur old eys are still working proplery

 

My gauge is VDO that came with the turbo (used). No 12 volts either, just lead wires and a 12V light for night driving. Response time is slow but it seems to work fine. 300 for idling also seems high to me.

Heres what I am getting usually to compare, if other guys could take the time to chime in with their own data, it could help:

mild city driving (speeds up to 35 MPH): 200-300F

cruising 55 MPH: 350

60 MPH: 400

65 MPH: 450-500

70 MPH: 600-650

80 MPH: 800

90....uh never mind.

My truck is lighter and all these numbers assume running empty. If I am going all out up a hill, I can sometimes reach 1000F, but I've never taken it through a mountain pass or any hill longer than a 1 or 2 miles.

harleyjohn45, I'm not sure if you mentioned this before, but what size of tailpipe are you running in that truck?