Just bought a 1988 F250 4x4 from a buddy yesterday. We took it for a test drive and stopped at my house. Took the ignition key out of the lock and it wouldn't go back in. After some WD40 and swearing the key went in but it wouldn't turn the lock or unlock the steering wheel.

I talked to a Ford tech about what to do. He said the tumbler is shot and should be replaced. He said if you can't turn it to the RUN position to depress the lock pin then you need to drill out the tumbler. He said to buy a new tumbler to gauge how far to drill into it. Start with a 1/4" bit and gradually increase the bit size until I have drilled out the core and it will come out.

I know that's how Angelina Jolee did it in Gone In 60 Seconds but is that really what has to be done? Just want to make sure before I take the drill to it.

 

Just FYI when you are at the parts store the part you are referring to as a "tumbler" is called the Ignition Lock Cylinder.

You don't drill it out, you drill out the little pin that us up underneath the column just to the left of where the lock cylinder goes in. Normally you would turn the key to ON and then depress this pin to remove the cylinder. If you cannot turn to ON then you must dril out the pin.

 

You didn't state if you have a tilt or non tilt column.

In a non tilt column, there is no drilling. You replace a bunch of parts.

For a tilt column you drill both the release pin and the cylinder.

Non tilting column

1) Disconnect the battery ground cable
2) Remove the steering wheel and pad assembly
3) Remove the turn signal lever from the steering column
4) To gain access to the ignition switch remove the steering column trim shrouds from the steering column. Detach and lower the steering column assembly from the brake pedal support bracket.
5) Remove the ignition switch and key warning buzzer terminal and pin if in the LOCK position.
6) Remove the turn signal switch from the column.
7) Remove the upper bearing snap ring and the two T bolt retainer nuts that secure the flange casting to the outer tube. Remove the entire flange casting
assembly, the upper shaft bearing, the lock cylinder assembly, the ignition switch actuator and the ignition switch, actuator rod by pulling the assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
8) Remove the lock actuator insert, T-bolts, and the PRND21 insert on automatic transmissions or the key release lever assembly on manual transmissions.
9) Replace the above assembly with a new assembly consisting of,
1) 3511 Flange
1) 11582 Lock Cylinder assembly
1) 3E717 Lock Gear, Steering Column Lock
1) 3E700 Bearing, Steering Column Lock
1) 3C610 Bearing, Steering Column Upper Bearing
1) 3E723 Actuator Assembly, Steering Column Lock
10) Install the key release lever assembly on manual transmission and the PRND21 insert on automatic transmission. Install the T-bolts and lock actuator insert.
Note: Retain the ignition switch actuating rod from the removed casting assembly and use it with the new flange casting assembly.

Tilt Column

1) Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the steering column trim shrouds.
2) Tape the gap between the steering wheel hub and the cover casting. Cover the entire circumference of the casting. Also cover the adjacent seat and floor area with a suitable covering to protect the surrounding interior upholstery, Pull out the hazard flasher switch and tape it down toward the floor to provide clearance for drilling out the lock cylinder retainer pin.
3) The tilt column lock cylinder retaining pin is located on the outside of the steering column cover casting adjacent to the hazard flasher button.
4) Tilt the steering column to the full up position and pre punch the lock cylinder retaining pin with a ***** punch. Using a 1/8 diameter drill bit with a right angle drive, drill out the retainer pin going no deeper than 1/2 inch.
5) Tilt the steering column to the full down position. Place a chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap and using a hammer strike the chisel with sharp blows to break the cap away from the lock cylinder.
6) using a 3/8 drill bit, drill down the middle of the ignition lock key slot approximately 1 3/4 inches until the lock cylinder breaks loose from the steering column cover casting. Remove the lock cylinder and the drill shavings from the base of the cover cast housing.
7) Remove the steering wheel and pad assembly.
8) Remove the turn signal lever from the column and then remove the two attaching screws from the turn signal switch and one attaching screw from the key warning buzzer terminal. Lift the turn signal switch up and over the end of the shaft but do not disconnect it from the wiring harness.
9) Remove the four attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the cover casting will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.
10 Remove the drive gear, snap ring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator mentioned above
Clean up all metal shavings.

 

I'm not advocating doing this, just telling you what I did.

I lost the keys to my truck last week. Having replaced the Lock Cylinder on it last year, I knew I needed to turn it to the run/on position. No one on the forum could tell me if I was going to break anything if I forced it, so I took a chance. I used a pipe wrench and with little effort was able to rotate the cylinder to the run position. After I removed the pipe wrench, I found that the cylinder functioned perfectly, except I didn't need a key. Since this is not a daily driver, I will more than likely leave it as is. If I do decide to get a new cylinder, I'm able to remove it by turning it to the run position and pressing the pin.

 

Just force it as easpilman described. I did this on my Explorer when I was in high school because the lock cylinder seized up and the key would not turn it. Its a hell of a lot easier than drilling s**t out.

 

Thanks for the tips. I bailed on doing it myself and called a locksmith. He came out and had it fixed after 10 minutes and of course $100. The nub on the brass flap that contacts the key buzzer switch breaks off and jams the cylinder. He used a secret pouch of tools and got the nub out of the way and was able to pull out the cylinder. He said it is pretty common. Using force is the other method that he said would work but with a little risk to damaging something, but it works too. If I had done that I would still need a new cylinder to make sure the wonderful key buzzer kept working. (My wife will drive the truck too so that was a necessity).

Thanks again for your help guys.