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I've always been a believer in my angle grinder with a wire brush to remove rust but I wanted your opinions on rust removal.
I've seen numerous products that you just spray on, let sit then hose off and it supposedly removes the rust exposing the(if any) good metal underneath.
Does any of this stuff work and if so which one do you recommend. Seems like it would be kinda handy for places that are hard to get to with the grinder.
I've used Naval Jelly and it seems to work pretty good on stuff you can't dip. There is a formula for a caustic lye solution that will eat rust off of parts if you have a safe place to make it and use it - and you can dip the parts in it.
I have used the Naval Jelly but on the stuff I use it on I guess the rust is too heavy even after knocking the loose scale off that it justdoesnt work. Now surface rust or flash rust oh yea that stuff takes it off quick.
I have been looking into getting a soda/sand blaster to strip paint off the body but need one that can be switched betwen soda for paint removal nd sand for rust removal. I think it would work better than days with a wire wheel brush and a drill stripping painted and rusted parts to bare metal.
It for use in a wash cabinet I think cause it says the longer the chemical washes over the part the more rust it removes on its own. If that works that would be ideal for small parts.
Now if money wasnt a option Jay Leno has one that he talked about on his site its called a Sonic cleaner or something like that. You place the rusted part in a pan with a solution in it then set it in the water tank where it floats then speakers send sound waves through the water at a specific frequency and it cleans the rusted parts. He also talks about another machine that pumps hot transmission fluid through your trans coolers to clean them out.
But that is getting off topic on chemical rust removal.
Now if money wasnt a option Jay Leno has one that he talked about on his site its called a Sonic cleaner or something like that. You place the rusted part in a pan with a solution in it then set it in the water tank where it floats then speakers send sound waves through the water at a specific frequency and it cleans the rusted parts.
Ultrasonics can be found pretty cheap on Ebay (relative to their cost through most retail outlets, anyways). They suck for rusty parts though, so be aware of that. They're designed more for busting off deposits, with the help of a good detergent agent. It's just a way to boost the effectiveness of the chemical cleaner.
Ultrasonics can be found pretty cheap on Ebay (relative to their cost through most retail outlets, anyways). They suck for rusty parts though, so be aware of that. They're designed more for busting off deposits, with the help of a good detergent agent. It's just a way to boost the effectiveness of the chemical cleaner.
True, to get the one Jay has is very expensive cause after 10 mins while talking about it the rusty wrench that was in the solution was noticeably cleaner but it takes longer to clear the rust off. But your right though the ultrasonic cleaners are usually best for grease deposits and carbon and all that stuff.
Anyting chemically that works will probally be envirementally unfriendly. Your neighbors will call the city on you in a second. My current frame is in good shape, so I'll just ruff up the surface so the paint will stick. Passed history, I used a grinder on heavy rust and a fine grain sand blaster for surface rust finishing. Being cheap, I can reuse the sand and when finished you can sweep it in the back yard after screening out the rust pieces. It's dirty, but I can help control the area dust, etc. with hanging tarps into a tent like structure ( again neighbors). chuck
Anyting chemically that works will probally be envirementally unfriendly. Your neighbors will call the city on you in a second. My current frame is in good shape, so I'll just ruff up the surface so the paint will stick. Passed history, I used a grinder on heavy rust and a fine grain sand blaster for surface rust finishing. Being cheap, I can reuse the sand and when finished you can sweep it in the back yard after screening out the rust pieces. It's dirty, but I can help control the area dust, etc. with hanging tarps into a tent like structure ( again neighbors). chuck
I got one of those protable car canopies with the side kit I was going to sand blast in there tokeep the stuff from going allover the place. Was also thinking about spraying the body parts like the hood and fenders in there also so wind wouldnt effect me.
Anyting chemically that works will probally be envirementally unfriendly. Your neighbors will call the city on you in a second.
I don't live in the city, my neighbors can't really see my house or my work area and certainly can't tell what I'm doing. It's not uncommon around here for people to have old cars/work on old cars at their house so no one would even notice.
Not to offend anyone but I'm really not concerned with a little bit of rust dissolver getting in the ground(especially when it's all diluted with water from hosing it off). Not like I'm dumping motor oil in a marine sanctuary.
I'm not trying to soak the truck in it, just smaller areas that are harder to fully get at with the grinder.
F250racer. I'm with you, do what you have to do. I didn't have my truck a week, when one of the neighbors called the city. Here it has to be tagged, inspected and driveable, otherwise they will take you to court and take the vehicle. I had to go before the city council and agree to build a stockade fence to hide the truck while I disassembled and stored the parts. I can't publish my true feelings. Chuck
Molasses is said to work well. Buy it at the feed store, dilute 3 to 1 or maybe 10 to 1, and drop things in. Citric acid also works... you can buy that at beer & winemaking supply stores. Mix with water, soak. Those are both very safe substances to use since they're basically food additives.
An idea I had for doing bigger stuff: get a cheap submersible fountain pump (or a parts washer pump). Rig something to collect the liquid under the frame or whatever you want to treat, so it drains into a sump where you put the pump. Run a hose from the pump up to where it will pour over the area you want to treat. "It's just crazy enough to work!"
Electrolytic rust removal just requires washing soda (from the laundry section of the supermarket), water, and electricity. Google it. If you have a big tank or trough, or an excavator and a big tarp, there you go.
Hydrochloric acid is supposed to work; I haven't tried it. It's pretty cheap; you can buy it at janitor supply stores by the gallon. Phosphoric acid is what's in Naval Jelly and metal prep solutions. It works great if you have enough.
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