Big Oil Leak
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Well... I got it back together only to realize I stripped one of the fuel lines. The drivers side top connector. Anyone know of a good place to get one? Dealer, Napa, Schucks? I need to be able to drive my truck by Thursday morning, so I still have some time, but the quicker the better. This blows... so close. It is a pretty impressive leak. Still not drivable.
Edit: If this is what you need to replace see this link so you know what you are dealing with. LINK
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Prosser
That is exactly what I need. You are a life saver. If you lived closer, I would buy you some beer. In the second link, he is installing a shim. Will I need to do that? Or just replace the part?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
The FPR housing is available at the Dealer but more expensive and they may have to order it. If you order it from Guzzle tonight he will have it in the mail tomorrow. He as a comment section when ordering so let him know it is urgent.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 48
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From: Prosser
I got to thinking on the way home, which is dangerous. In the off chance I had the HPOP facing the wrong way when I pulled the non-serviceable plug, how much of a headache will that cause? I can't remember what exactly I did, but it is nagging at me. I ordered the other part tonight asking if he can mail it right away, so I can at least get the fixed. When it rains, it pours huh?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I got to thinking on the way home, which is dangerous. In the off chance I had the HPOP facing the wrong way when I pulled the non-serviceable plug, how much of a headache will that cause? I can't remember what exactly I did, but it is nagging at me. I ordered the other part tonight asking if he can mail it right away, so I can at least get the fixed. When it rains, it pours huh?
I'm hitting the rack now but will look for updates from you tomorrow, or should I say later today.
Edit: I'm getting tired and misread your post. What you are saying is you may not have followed this instruction "Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed". Don't worry about it for now. Gotta get that FPR housing replaced first.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Prosser
OK, so I got it all put back together. No more fuel leaks. It won't start. Turns over good, all gauges in dash are within normal limits, including oil. All of the electrical connectors are plugged in, all the lines are reconnected. Any suggestions?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Make sure you have at least 10.5 volts while cranking. The truck will still crank pretty good under this voltage but the PCM will not fire the injectors unless it sees at least 10.5 Volts.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: eastern shore,MD
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Prosser
I did spray water on the motor to clean it off. I used a garden hose with not much pressure. I don't have a multimeter to check the voltage with me. I will have to bring on down at a later date. If the oil gauge on the dash is normal, that means I have good oil pressure right? Like I didn't mess up the bearing in the non-serviceable plug?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
It can take some cranking after an injector swap or hpop swap. Just don't drain the batteries or fry the starter, stay with it. Keep trying, let the starter cool and charge the batts. It should fire.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
bfog99,
FYI - The dash display oil pressure is not the HPOP but the LPOP(Low Pressue Oil Pump).
Follow Mike's instructions and if you can find someone that can scan for ICP (Injector Control Pressure) you need about 500 PSI while cranking, or she will not start. The ICP is dependent on the HPOP.
FYI - The dash display oil pressure is not the HPOP but the LPOP(Low Pressue Oil Pump).
Follow Mike's instructions and if you can find someone that can scan for ICP (Injector Control Pressure) you need about 500 PSI while cranking, or she will not start. The ICP is dependent on the HPOP.
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 48
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From: Prosser
I have been been gone for a while. Came back to crank it some more. Wouldn't start. So I took it all back apart and took the IPR off to see if the check ball was still there. It is gone. I looked on the bench where I initially did the work and rolled the pump around for a while to see if I could get it to fall out. Where do these guys usually hide? Is there somewhere I can find another one?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
I have been been gone for a while. Came back to crank it some more. Wouldn't start. So I took it all back apart and took the IPR off to see if the check ball was still there. It is gone. I looked on the bench where I initially did the work and rolled the pump around for a while to see if I could get it to fall out. Where do these guys usually hide? Is there somewhere I can find another one?
Joey at Terminator Egineering my help you. Send him a message via the contact page.
Also Bob Riley at DieselSite. DieselSite is closed until next week.
Both these gentleman are excellent people and will be willing to answer your questions.