300 engine build plans
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From: raymond alberta
300 engine build plans
ok this is still a maybe and its still in the works im just trying to iron out all the details before i decide when to do it and if i can
so my ole 300 has 338000 km on em and i think its startin to feel the previous years of hauling and 4x4 abuse so im thinkin a mild rebuild is in the works...and i gotta do the headgasket anyway so i was thinkin about building it up at the same time so heres what i got so far any ideas and comments are welcome. thanks
-port the head and back-cut the intake valves 30*
-all new exhaust with LT headers 2 1/4 pipe gut the cat and a good muffler 5" stacks
-C***y I6 stud mount rockers and pushrod guideplate conversion kit to convert it to studs
-possibly bore it .30 over and if i do that the block will be zero decked
-mild cam
-performance plugs wires cap and rotor
-BIG MAYBE in the far far away future a turbo just cause
so my ole 300 has 338000 km on em and i think its startin to feel the previous years of hauling and 4x4 abuse so im thinkin a mild rebuild is in the works...and i gotta do the headgasket anyway so i was thinkin about building it up at the same time so heres what i got so far any ideas and comments are welcome. thanks
-port the head and back-cut the intake valves 30*
-all new exhaust with LT headers 2 1/4 pipe gut the cat and a good muffler 5" stacks
-C***y I6 stud mount rockers and pushrod guideplate conversion kit to convert it to studs
-possibly bore it .30 over and if i do that the block will be zero decked
-mild cam
-performance plugs wires cap and rotor
-BIG MAYBE in the far far away future a turbo just cause
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From: raymond alberta
well thanks guys
anyway i called the machine shop and heres what im doing it will probably happen this summer for a rough estimate of $1000
bore .30 over
new ford flat top pistons (instead of zeroing the block)
back-cut valves 30*
rebuild head
possibly grind crank
and then i plan on adding a mild cam, chevy rockers and custom exhaust when i get er home but those are not included in my estimate
i probably wont be able to port the head as the only place that can do int is 2 hours away and i dont wanna wait
how much do you think this will impact the hp and tq?
anyway i called the machine shop and heres what im doing it will probably happen this summer for a rough estimate of $1000
bore .30 over
new ford flat top pistons (instead of zeroing the block)
back-cut valves 30*
rebuild head
possibly grind crank
and then i plan on adding a mild cam, chevy rockers and custom exhaust when i get er home but those are not included in my estimate
i probably wont be able to port the head as the only place that can do int is 2 hours away and i dont wanna wait
how much do you think this will impact the hp and tq?
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I don't really know the answer to your question about HP/TQ but I'm sure it will help. What will the flat top piston raise your compression too? In my engine building experience I'd suggest decking the block, get the crank grind done, and then have your harmonic balancer, crank, rods, pistons, and flywheel balanced. This is as you know all worth your while when the motor is apart. If you don't have the cash now, save up and do it right. A little extar now could save you quite a bit later.
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From: raymond alberta
yep that was the plan when he put er back together...when i talked to him i didn't get the exact compression raise but its about the same as decking the block but there's no labor pretty much he recommenced doing it this way because that's how they usually do it
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Yes it will also raise compression, but that is not the sole purpose of decking the block. I don't think the choice is to go flat top piston or deck the block, decking the block is to ensure a true and smooth surface for the head bolting to it. Now, if that alone will get you the desired compression your after, then piston choice will be next. Also during the rebuilding of the head, it will also be surfaced for the same purpose. Getting compression out of either one of these steps is more of a perk then the purpose (although some people will do it for that purpose only). Keep in mind, this is only my .02 cents! I've been wrong before.
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From: raymond alberta
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Decking is mainly required if the flatness of the head mating surface is out of specs. Can also be used to increase compression - especially if you put in pistons with a shorter compression height. You still want your quench height to be within limits, though.....
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From: Coal Region
if ur planning on a turbo dont raise the compression to much.
i would have the block and head decked for flatness only enough to make it true. the cylinder boring i would only take as much as needed. u gain nothing by boring more than needed. and the chevy rockers are pointless with a mild cam. plus it will require screw in studs. i would opt for a mild cam, bronze valve guides, 3 angle cut on the head/valves, back cut the intake valve 30*, good springs to match the cam and if ur dead set on different rockers...rollar rockers.
clean up the valve throut, remove the AIR bump in the exhaust port and just remove any casting flash. u can polish the CC and thats all i would do. some machine shops can do some mild head work like cleaning up the throat of the valves. at school on the head machine i used a carbide cutter to go into the throats.
any ideas on a cam choice? while ur at it, clean up the intakes and maybe add a larger throttle body. id also think about larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
i would have the block and head decked for flatness only enough to make it true. the cylinder boring i would only take as much as needed. u gain nothing by boring more than needed. and the chevy rockers are pointless with a mild cam. plus it will require screw in studs. i would opt for a mild cam, bronze valve guides, 3 angle cut on the head/valves, back cut the intake valve 30*, good springs to match the cam and if ur dead set on different rockers...rollar rockers.
clean up the valve throut, remove the AIR bump in the exhaust port and just remove any casting flash. u can polish the CC and thats all i would do. some machine shops can do some mild head work like cleaning up the throat of the valves. at school on the head machine i used a carbide cutter to go into the throats.
any ideas on a cam choice? while ur at it, clean up the intakes and maybe add a larger throttle body. id also think about larger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
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From: raymond alberta
i wanted to bore it so i could do new pistons...the main objective of this was to rebuild it but hey while im at it ya know...but its gotta pass a write off inspection i dont think it will without an A.I.R. pump or smog stuff will it?
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
I don't think he meant remove it completely. I'm not sure what the inspection regulations are where you are at, you might want to look those up. I would keep over-boring to a minimum if you plan on doing a turbo, and you don't want too high of a compression ratio with a turbo, you'd end up melting those nice pretty new pistons or seizing the engine. Adding a turbo usually requires building the engine accordingly from everything I have ever seen or read.
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From: Coal Region
i dont know canada's smog laws so i can help but u can buy .010, .020, .030, .040, etc overbore pistons not just .030....
in the exhaust port itself, there is a thermactor bump.
see here:
the throat of the valves:
in the exhaust port itself, there is a thermactor bump.
see here:
the throat of the valves:
