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Advice on Shock Install

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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 09:34 PM
  #16  
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I still dont think the panhard and the radius arms will let it fall that far, but whatever, I'm not going to go jack my truck up at 9:30 at night just to prove a point. Deuces
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:06 AM
  #17  
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You don't need to jack it up so far that the wheel comes off the ground, just enough to take some pressure off of the front shock while replacing it.

I didn't remove the front wheels when I changed mine, just jacked it up enough to relieve some pressure. That takes care of the worry about the axle moving.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by WildWildWest
You don't need to jack it up so far that the wheel comes off the ground, just enough to take some pressure off of the front shock while replacing it.

I didn't remove the front wheels when I changed mine, just jacked it up enough to relieve some pressure. That takes care of the worry about the axle moving.
Right! The key word is 'don't' lift it up by the frame having the wheels off the ground. I finally have a 10,000# 2 post BendPac lift so i raised my truck up 6' to work on it without any support under the axle.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:52 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by WestxSRT10
Right! The key word is 'don't' lift it up by the frame having the wheels off the ground. I finally have a 10,000# 2 post BendPac lift so i raised my truck up 6' to work on it without any support under the axle.
I'd love to have your problem (the 2 post lift, that is)!!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #20  
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I just did mine yesterday on my '01. I did remove the front tires to get easier access. Here is a great thread with pictures that I used. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/73...y-f-250-a.html - 122k -
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 11:22 AM
  #21  
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Best tip from that link to to make sure you do not wreck the lower nut on the front. Loosen the bottom from the bolt end and put a wrench on the nut too prevent it from turning the metal bracket that is attached. Also for me when doing the fronts it was easier to install the bottom end of the shock first so that the shock was easy to compress by pushing down on it and then sliding it on the top bolt. For me the rear shocks were too short with the tie straps on so I made sure I had a jack under the lower part of the shock so when I released it, it didn't extend all the way. Overall it went OK. I did spray lube for a few days before I started the replacement and everthing came apart but I did need a persuader bar over the wrench to break loose the rusted parts. (only on 2 of the nuts). Good luck...
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 06:04 PM
  #22  
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Thanks everyone..seems like I can handle it....I will report my results later this week once I get to it.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #23  
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Out of curiosity, what shocks did you buy?
 
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 09:05 AM
  #24  
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I bought Bilsteins.( the yellow and blue ones) I think they are still on sale 4 for the price of 3 until the 30th of this month. I bought mine thru Bilstein - KYB - Rancho - Monroe - Edelbrock Automotive Truck Shocks and Struts - Shockwarehouse.com. If you put FORD5 in the promo code you get an additional 5% off. I spent $194 for all 4 shipped to my house in about a week.
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:16 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for all advice...I was able to get the two rears and the driver side front changed in about an hour-which is pretty good for me(not the best mechanic, but I try real hard and all the bolts were nice and rusted..)

of course the passenger side front was fighting me the whole way..after about an hour and a half I decided to stop for the night..going to cut if off this morning and then I will install the new Rancho and be done.

I am a sucker for the red/white combo with the Red Boot...I did clear coat them so we will see how they look after 1 winter
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 09:12 AM
  #26  
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Hopefully the Rancos work out for you. I know for me I soaked the nuts for a few days and it seemed to help. Remember the top bolt is attached to the truck.
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 11:26 AM
  #27  
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Got the pass front off finally. I had to cut it off and then still fight it out a bit. Last person used RED Loctite..just to screw with me.

Oh yes..I did soak all the nuts for a few days....if it wasnt for that silly red loctite...I would have been smooth
 
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Old May 7, 2009 | 07:04 PM
  #28  
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2 cents

First off many times the shocks are the only thing limiting the downward travel of the axel. Where as the bump stops limit the upward travel.

Thats why racers use limit straps on there long travel suspensions.

I installed a Fabtech 8inch lift on my freinds 2006 F250 4x4. It was the Fabtech lift with the BIG COIL and SHOCK. I was surprised that the lift came with limit straps but no bump stops.

My freind says it rides great on the street but offroad the shocks bottom out!
 
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