what size is the nut on the radus arm i need to put new bushing in thanks for the help

 

i need to buy tools to take this apart this weekend just wanted to buy the right size

 

I THINK it's 1 1/8" but it's been a looong while since I've looked and none of the trucks are here right now - so just consider this a free bump to the top

 

I would be interested in a step by step procedure for this. Mine are bad, real bad.

 

I just replaced mine. 1-1/8" is correct.

As far as step-by-step instructions, I was fortunate on my 77. The radius arm brackets were bolted on.

I just removed the wheel from the side I was working on and supported the truck with a jackstand under the crossmember (not the I-Beam, as you'll need to move the axle when repositioning the bracket). I kept the jack (scissor type) under the axle. I used a scissor type jack as it is more precise when adjusting the height of the axle for repositioning.

Then I removed the nut from the radius arm, removed the bracket from the frame and pulled the bracket from the radius arm (though mine weren't in as bad shape as those pictured).

When reassembling I placed the washer, inside bushing and bracket on the radius arm, followed by the outer bushing, washer and nut. I did not torque down the nut.

The tough part in the way I did it is getting the bracket to line up with the holes on the frame. This is where you need to be able to move the I-Beam. Just takes a lot of effort. Once the bracket is back on the frame, torque everything down.

One caveat, if your bracket is riveted to the frame, the procedure is different and more difficult.

I used polyurethane bushings on mine and the difference is astounding.

 

Yours is a "lock" nut and mine is a castle nut...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/radiusarm.jpg
But they are the same size on the outside since they are both 3/4-10 nuts.

Chase's memory is better than we thought it was;) ...1+1/8" is right. :)

When it's not all rusted up it's an easy straight forward job. :)
Monkey see monkey do, easy to get to everything and nothing's hidden.
Not like working on window mechanisms, which I did last night.

Since I don't ever plan to sell my pickup -and- I plan to work on it over and
over I'm going to remove the rivets from the passenger side' radius bracket
too, next time I work on it.

That's for you to decide.

--------------------------------

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toolbox.jpg
See the rusty open-end wrench in front? :)
I bought it for a $1 and opened it up with a file from 1+1/16" to a tight
fitting 1+1/8" to do my first job replacing an I beam. :) It was perfect,
it'd reach through the spring and it'd fit the nuts like it was made for 'em. ;)

It doesn't have sizes on it, it's "old school" only has a number, it's "a 37
wrench". I opened up both ends and turned into a "37A", the other end
is now 1+5/16" and so fits the pitman arm's sector-shaft nut. Much
later I ended up with a like-new 37A, but I still use my old one. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

I did this repair last month. Now I'd like some opinions as to whether or not I should have the tow-in checked. Seems to track just fine, but the steering wheel is a few degrees off center now (to the left). What do you pros think--alignment check or not?

 

For sure! :)

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in2.jpg

The tricks are to use a 1" wide tape measure and learn how to pick it up
and put it back down and get the same reading every time.

Another is to notice how your wheel is while driving and come to an easy
stop with the wheel in that position. This is a one-man operation and you
can experiment with toe-in and toe-out and see what you like. :)

On my pickup I like zero to 1/32" toe-in best. YMMV

The factory has a wide range it allows, including some toe-out.

Alvin in AZ

 

i just did mine mine tonite mine was the same as racedays it took two hour to do what adifference in driving thanks for the help

 

Berry mine had no rubber left use grade 8 bolts

 

That's a point I forgot to make. I used new bolts for the radius arm bracket when reassembling. Always use grade 8 bolts on suspension components.

 

Yeah, even tho Ford used "grade 2 like steel" for the rivets. :)
I spark tested them and they spark just like a common nail.
For sure, they aren't even "grade 5 bolt steel".

IMO...
Engineers can get away with materials and methods we can't.
We need to go one step better than they do, just to keep up. :)
It's a matter of design and testing they get to do, that we can't.

Alvin in AZ

 

heres the way i did my radius arm bushing

jack the vehicle up and place jack stands behind the raidus arm brackets but leave enough room to get a socket or wrench on the raius arm bolts. take of the wheels off. place a jack under the ibeam directly under the spring,dont jack the spring up or put any tension on it just let it hang the jack under the ibeam is used for when putting the spring back in place so your not fighting with trying to hold the spindle and beam up when reattaching the sprng retainer bolts and tightining the lower cup bolt . unbolt the coil spring retainer boltson the spring seat and lower bolt on the cup. remove the spring, then remove the shock, remove the bolt on the back side of the radius arm,wrap a chain around the I beam and hook it to a come along. then hook the come along to the closet hole forward on the truck by the bumber. ratchet forward which will pull the radius arm and i beam forward toward the truck, keep ratcheting forward till the radius arm clears the raidius arm bracket, remove old bushing and place new one on. when putting it back together take and have a buddie be by the radius arm guiding it back into place while you slowly release tension on the come along. once radius arm is in original location put the back bushing on and put the nut back on but leave it loose for now. the bolt everything back up, springs,shocks, etc. after everything is bolted back up then tighten the radius arm bolt back down