O2 Sensor Questions
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
It is original. It was really dirty when I bought the truck, I cleaned it with MAF cleaner and it helped alot. Do you know which pin/wire to check on these? I could check the voltage on it at idle.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
See here... Ford Fuel Injection Mass Air Flow Sensor
I also just saw a note that from '94 and up Ford used the MAF sensor to calculate barometric pressure instead of measuring it directly.
I also just saw a note that from '94 and up Ford used the MAF sensor to calculate barometric pressure instead of measuring it directly.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
Cool Webpage, lots of info there. Looks like Pin C is where to check. 
Maybe this means it's time to upgrade the MAF to bigger (like 85mm), with bigger induction and bigger throttle body - and a EEC-V tuner.
Thanks Conanski
Maybe this means it's time to upgrade the MAF to bigger (like 85mm), with bigger induction and bigger throttle body - and a EEC-V tuner.
Thanks Conanski
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
OK here's the deal, 2 of your sensors are working exactly as they should.. switching rapidly from low to high voltage. I also think that your two main(front) sensors are bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1. The one behind the cat should be bank 1 sensor 2 and I don't know if it's supposed to act differently or not, could be since it's function is different.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
I think my MAF is bad, after days of playing and testing that is my un-professional opinion. It is reading almost 1/2 a volt higher in every airflow range. I was going to order a reman unit from Ford but I decided to call Pro-M to see what they had before ordering it from Ford. After talking to them I am more confused then ever. They asked me clean the old MAF in a way that I had not done before. Use a small pipe cleaner soaked in carb cleaner and scrub it until those metal sensor wires were bright silver - "but don't break them". My MAF was pretty clean already - but I cleaned it the way they suggested and nothing changed.
Pro-M said because of the K&N filter that is on the end of my MAF it has changed the dynamics of the voltage. They suggested I send them my K&N Filter with the adapter it has to mount to the MAF and they will send me a new MAF specifically calibrated to work with my K&N and mods I have done to the truck. Anyone have good or bad experiences with Pro-M Racing?
Pro-M said because of the K&N filter that is on the end of my MAF it has changed the dynamics of the voltage. They suggested I send them my K&N Filter with the adapter it has to mount to the MAF and they will send me a new MAF specifically calibrated to work with my K&N and mods I have done to the truck. Anyone have good or bad experiences with Pro-M Racing?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Oh... you have one of those damn things, that explains it then. ProM is dead on, the conical filter is messing up your MAF meter readings, it should NEVER be attached directly to the meter, it should be 6-12 inches away to allow the airflow to smooth out. As you are now aware the oil from these filters also contaminates the meter, and it sucks in hot underhood air instead of cooler outside air along with more dirt, so they really create more problems than they cure. Before spending money on a custom MAF meter simple reposition yours as I suggested above, and also try rotating the meter, sometimes just putting the sensor in a different part of the airstream changes the readings.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
I don't think putting on a filter on the outside of an MAF would disrupt air flow that much. Pro-M them selves offer MAF's with filters attached to the outside. I do agree that it is sucking in exhaust manifold heat. I am building an aluminum shield for it right now. Here is a link of the FIPK that I have on my truck right now: 57-2516 - K&N 57 Series FIPK, Performance Intake Kit. Pro-M told me today that I would need to buy their 85mm MAF as they don't offer a 80mm flanged MAF. If I were to go with the 85mm MAF I would have to build an all new air tube induction system and I really don't want to do that, especially considering California smog I have to deal with. I did call a local dyno tuner and they recommended the Pro-M stuff, but they would want to reflash my ECM instead of chipping it with something like from SCT. Not sure what to do 
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
One of the problems with open air filters under the hood is fan wash, I have seen testing results showing just how much this disrupts the sensor but can't find it at the moment, if memory serves me a 1/2 volt is well within possibility here. You should try rotating the meter from straight up and down and see if it makes any difference in the voltage measurements you get.
Is your truck OBD1 or OBD2? If it's OBD1 it can't be reflashed there is no programmable memory onboard, that's why all the 3rd party companies use a chip or module for this series.
Is your truck OBD1 or OBD2? If it's OBD1 it can't be reflashed there is no programmable memory onboard, that's why all the 3rd party companies use a chip or module for this series.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
It's OBD II, it has the EEC-V ECM. I think the heat shield will help tremendously. It will cut back on the fan swirl and keep the excess heat out. If SMOG was not such a big deal here I would build a custom cold-air intake for it with the bigger throttle body that BBK offers. But I don't think it is quite worth the funds. I think the best thing to do at this point is get a new MAF (Stock or Pro-M) and have it dyno tuned and calibrated/reflashed. It might be the best $400 I have ever spent.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 351
Likes: 1
From: Davis County, UT
With the K&N attached to the end of the MAF and being that it is a flanged MAF I can only tweak and rotate so much. Because of the brackets that attach to the flange to support and hold it in place.
However, with the other mods that have been added, the truck needs to be dyno/tuned anyways. I have always felt that the truck isn't utilizing the headers and exhaust that have been added.
I used to own a '92 F-250 that I had added the same mods too. Banks Power Pack, MSD, etc. That was a speed density setup and that truck was a screamer. It pulled heavy loads really well and had tremendous power. With this truck being a MAF truck, I always thought it would run better with the MAF which in many ways it does. But from the perspective of power I don't think the ECM is utilizing the exhaust as wells as the SD setup.
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I don't think putting on a filter on the outside of an MAF would disrupt air flow that much. Pro-M them selves offer MAF's with filters attached to the outside. I do agree that it is sucking in exhaust manifold heat. I am building an aluminum shield for it right now. Here is a link of the FIPK that I have on my truck right now: 57-2516 - K&N 57 Series FIPK, Performance Intake Kit. Pro-M told me today that I would need to buy their 85mm MAF as they don't offer a 80mm flanged MAF. If I were to go with the 85mm MAF I would have to build an all new air tube induction system and I really don't want to do that, especially considering California smog I have to deal with. I did call a local dyno tuner and they recommended the Pro-M stuff, but they would want to reflash my ECM instead of chipping it with something like from SCT. Not sure what to do
