I would they did mine APR studs and the total egr delete havent towed a good distance yet to see if it heats up agian. Just tell them you will buy the studs and the Egr delete kit and Ask if they will do it all they can do is say no. Ask before you bring it to the dealer and if they say no try another dealer. First one I tryed said they would if the heads were bad and then after looking at the truck said it was degas bottle cap BS truck wont flash boil if cap is bad. So the next tow it did the same thing and took it to another dealer they did the studs and egr delete

 

Yeah I dropped it off this morning and they didn't get to it today. They are supposed to give me a call tommorow.

 

So I just got back from the dealer and they found that the fuel control module was bad as well as the EGR cooler. He said they had to tear it all down before they would know for sure if it would need headstuds or not. They will be repairing all of it the next few days. I asked if the would put in the ARP studs if I provided them and they said I could not. So when it comes back is a SCT from innovative diesel the way to go? And can they tune for stock heads? Also if I get an Edge insight does a EGT probe void my warranty?

Thanks

 

Yes on both counts.




It should not just be the mere fact of having the probe on there. However, what tends to happen is that the dealerships think that because an owner has gauges that they are also running tunes(more often then not that's true, but there are times when it isn't true) and that's when they are start quibble over the warranty.

 

Thanks for the info. With his tunes and the SCT will I still run the chance of this reoccurring? And it should be way better than the Flashpaq was correct?

 

Man I wouldnt run a tuner without the studs these motors have to many head issues at the stock level increase the power and you will have trouble I dont care if its SCT or not the stock bolts just cant handle it I know it sux you couldnt get the studs but the tuner without them just isnt safe.

 

so would I be better off if I just regear? Would that bring it back to stock

 

I do agree with you to a certain degree. Running a tuner can actually be beneficial over stock and reduce chances of headgasket issues. How is that? you ask. Easy, you can get custom tunes that actually de-tune the hp/tq numbers of the truck. Now by far the majority do not do that, but there are a select few that do and it's that select few that prevent someone logically from saying all people that run tuners run a higher risk of blowing heads. What is in bold in your quote above, leads me to believe that you are talking about all tuners and all tunes, technically speaking that isn't the case. I'm bad about technical issues of debates(those that have been around long enough probably know that much to their dismay).

 

If you re-gear it to a certain ratio. I wish I could remember the formula that "you" would use to determine what gears you would need for that size tires, but it just doesn't come to mind. Might could post a seperate thread about determining what gears you would need to bring your truck back to stock. That might get the people that know about lifts to pay attention to the thread versus a thread about coolant temps spiking.

 

If that isn't a "lead in" to hijacking this thread ............. Very tempting I might add Tex!


To the OP - If you haven't already, I would have a conversation ASAP w/ the dealership to confirm that all is covered by warranty. You have enough mods that I would want to know their position now - rather than get surprised later on.

 

I think 4.30 will be close to stock. If this motor cant handle 37 inch tire going up a grade and not over heat we are all in trouble. Not that I want your truck to have other issues but I hope they find something wrong that was causing the the heating issue.

 

Just thought I would bring this to the forefront. Wanted to see if they ever figured out what the heating issue was?

 

I am supposed to be getting it back today. It started out that they changed out the EGR cooler. Then they said it needed head gaskets. I also remember them saying something bout the fuel control module. I will give the final fix update as soon as I get it back.

 

Folks,
I just recently bought an '06 F250 with the 6.0. I tokk my 5th wheel up the highway for a shakedown tow and ran into the same issue with the temp gauge. It was fine most of the way up the hill, then suddenly went pegged in the red. I slowed down and started looking for a place to pull over when I noticed that it had returned again to normal. Happened one more time before I got to the top of the hill (hill length at about 5-7 miles).

I have had a couple of different opinions thrown at me on this:

1. Fan clutch is slipping. This was proposed due to a possible issue with not holding correctly when the truck downshifts causing higher RPMs. Dealer says fan clutch is ok.

2. the second one is more unsettling: The performance chip installed on the truck. Many performance chips apparently make their power by fooling key sensors on the engine. One of them is the oil temperature. A mechanic was showing me the difference in the oil temp reading at idle and at 3200 RPMs. This is with the tuner on stage 1. At idle the temp was around 200 something, but at 3200 RPMs, it dropped down to less than a hundred degrees. Mechanic says that this fools the computer and makes it change the timing, creaying more HP.

Any thoughts about these ideas, or any others?

Thanks,
Greg

 

What is the performance "chip" that is on there? If it is what most people would call a "chip" then what your mechanic was telling you is very possible, if it's a downloader, then that's a little bit different.