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Hey guys, I am ready to put in a switch to cut out the pulse relay for the ESOF when in low range. Does it matter which of the three wires I cut and run through the switch? Thanks to all Jim
Light blue with pink stripe is power when the key is in run. Grey with black stripe is grounded to engage the hubs, red is grounded to disengage the hubs.
I think I would break the engagement wire. That way the hubs would always attempt to disengage, regardless of your switch.
Passenger side firewall, above the vacuum reservoir. It's a small unit with a 3 wire connector and two vacuum hoses. I have a picture around here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.
If you don't want to go through the trouble of doing the switch thingy, you can always just unplug the connection on the sensor and it will not send the pulse to lock the hubs. This is what I do when I have to back a trailer up an incline. I don't do it much, so no need for the switch for me.
Dave, are you sure you want to cut just the engagement side of things? A low-vacuum short pulse (20 seconds) is still applied for disengage, and I'd be worried that if the hubs are free-moving enough that they may lock instead of staying disengaged.
I had a situation once with my '01 that one of the hubs was working opposite, in that it was locked when I was in 2-wheel drive, and UNLOCKED when in 4-wheel drive.
I had to shut the truck down with the **** in 4x4, turn it to 4x2 with the key off, and restart, and it cleared up.
So, wouldn't it be best to cut the common and never have to worry about it?
Dave, are you sure you want to cut just the engagement side of things? A low-vacuum short pulse (20 seconds) is still applied for disengage, and I'd be worried that if the hubs are free-moving enough that they may lock instead of staying disengaged.
I had a situation once with my '01 that one of the hubs was working opposite, in that it was locked when I was in 2-wheel drive, and UNLOCKED when in 4-wheel drive.
I had to shut the truck down with the **** in 4x4, turn it to 4x2 with the key off, and restart, and it cleared up.
So, wouldn't it be best to cut the common and never have to worry about it?
I think you're right, upon further thought. The low vacuum pulse will hold the hubs locked until it releases. So it would be best to break the center power wire. Given that, if one were wanting to use upfitter switches, one could find that wire at the CJB, unhook it and hook it to an upfitter. Leave the switch on for normal operation, off for 2WD only operation. Or, use a relay for the opposite, but it could all be done in the cab, I would think. If you could find the right wire in the cab.
Edit: OK, this probably wouldn't work either, since F2.27 is one of the main switched power feeds and probably runs quite a few things other than the PVH solenoid. Now, you could still run a wire from an upfitter switch, into the engine bay, and either hook it directly to the center PVH solenoid wire and operate it like I described first, of use a relay to get an opposite result. If that makes any sense.
I'm wanting to do this low 2 wd switch to my 2008. I've located the relay and vaccum piping near the top back side of the radatior. I'm still not sure what to do.
Art, are you saying to unplug the plug that is circled in red? I can think of a few really good situations for that... to get the TC locked up at lower speeds to reduce tranny temp.
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