I reaserched forever too and couldnt find a true thread on the relay. I did wire in a 30 amp maxi in the fuse box but connected it to a switch in the cab. I turn it on while the glow plugs warm up and turn it off when I shut the key off. It is a lighted switch so I know if it is on or off. I have the inertia swith before the cab switch though.

 

There's a little bit about wiring the pump on Tim's page:

Tims I/C Page example

Bean used to have the installation instructions for his kit on his website but he has changed things around on there and it's either gone or I just can't find it.

 

I would tap into power from the fuse #22 to trigger the relay. That would make the pump run whenever the key is in the run or start position. You'll want a impact switch in the relay feed line too.

If you really want to get fancy, you could make the fuel pump only run when the glow plug are on or there is oil pressure. That way the pump will only run when the engine is being started or is running.

 

Yea the wiring is what has got me. I'd want it wired for oil presure so the pump is not running all the time when the key is on. The rocker switch is good until someone else drives your truck and runs your batterys low trying to start it or forgets to turn it off. Is there an oil presure switch on the motor now? What is the true recomended fuel presure for our trucks...60 psi? Why is the walbro pump better. I have no problem spending the money on the fittings as I want it to never be a problem again and done right. Is the fuel heater really needed what is the worst that can happen without it. Finally seems like everyone has there own idea on filter set ups what is the best?

 

Thanks for the tims i/c page link that helps a lot, even got part numbers I really like that cpr kit at diesel site but way to much money. they say that the fpr and all other stuff is rated for diesel fuel and others is not......is that true? or they just trying to sell ya. Anyone out there who has done this on there own figure what the best filters and filter heads are. where do you get the inertia switch....junkyard?

 

The oil gauge is actually connected to a oil pressure switch. The switch activates at 7 PSI. There is a 20 ohm resistor on the flex circuit behind the instruments cluster that makes the oil pressure gauge read "normal" when full 12V is applied to the gauge.

The switch grounds when there is pressure so it would be possible to use a relay to trigger the fuel pump.

You also need to have a way to activate the pump when cranking so you'll get fuel pressure when starting. The Holley oil pressure switch mentioned in the above link has a pair of contacts that allows you to feed power from the starter solenoid through it.

Also consider having a way to run the pump so you can reprime after changing the filters. If you use the open #5 relay spot, you can simply make a short jumper with male quick connect blades that can be shoved in the socket to fire up the pump.

Only if you run near gelling. Folks in the midwest get away without them. But then they have winter diesel in the winter. Out west we don't, and I know people who've had the filter plug with gel on them when they go up in the mountains.

 

You really don't need to have the pump running to get it started. I have an oil pressure switch in the trigger line to the relay.The pump never turns on until the engine has oil pressure. Even with no power to the pumps the engine will start up and idle.

 

For the filters, the setup I love and currently run is a 30 micron pre filter and 2 micron post. I run the WIX fuel water separator, it comes a a kit with the base, sorry I lost the P/N as I am in the middle of a move. And the secondary filter head WIX 24770. Secondary filter WIX 33528. IDK if you can weld, but there definitely is fabrication for the filter/pump mount.

Inertia switch can be purchased at the junkyard, mine was 5.00. I got it out of a wrecked police car. THEY ARE LOCATED IN THE TRUNK ON THE DRIVERS SIDE IN THESE CARS. Didn't want you to look forever for it.

And Tim's I/C page is what I followed, that is a very informative link. Thanks Rodney!!

Now, for your feed and return lines. If you get under the truck and look at the tank selector valve, it is marked with front and rear for the tanks. Also feed and return for your lines. Do not cross these lines as I did trying to do it at 10pm in my driveway. Couldnt see a thing.

And if you decide to go the easiest route with a rocker switch, the truck will start and run for about 5 min with the pump off. But thats good for the plunger and barrels if you keep running it dry, just lettin you know it will start and wont kill the batts.

 

In the wiring diagram from Holley for the 12-810 Oil Pressure Switch. I understand the Normally Closed terminal runs to the starter. Now on the Normally open in has it running to the ignition switch. What wire on the ignition switch would it run to? Sorry for all the questions, but I am not great at electrical wiring.

http://holley.com/data/Products/Tech...199R9680-1.pdf

 

If you're putting the pressure switch on the HPOP reservoir, I'd tap the feed to the fuel heater. The wire is right in the same area, and since the water separator in the valley is going away, that wire is not going to be used anymore anyways.

That will put the pump on fuse #22, the same one that powers up the PCM relay.

 

I am putting the oil pressure switch in the oil filter housing. And Wouldn't I need to just add another fuse and relay for the pump or no?

 

The cpr kit sounds like it uses a backflow check valve after the pump and filters. That sounds super good to me cause with that you would have fuel presure at start up....right? You also would not siphon all your fuel back when changeing filters. Wonder where we can find some of them check valves at. So with that and Kevin saying it would run up to 5 minutes with no fuel presure there would really be no reason to tie into the hot when starting off the starter. What do you guys think? The filters on the cpr kit at diesel site look funny. Does not matter I could never justify the 1,300 for it. This is starting to look easier to me but the wiring is still a little of a question mark?

 

yeah the CPR kit is nice, but I'll have less that half of the price of that in mine. And the headaches of buying all the parts and pieces and trying to figure out the wiring is worth the money I am saving.

 

Yeah I am not one for spending money when i can do it myself. Are you happy with yours, does it make as big as a differance as all say. It just makes so much since. I hate to sound like a sissy but I could use a little less noise..is it a lot less loud. better starts? more power?

 

haven't got mine in yet, will try to do it this weekend unsure if I'll get the time or not, but I have heard they work really well.