Tried to start the engine yesterday with great anticipation--Buzzzz, Buzz..
Starter wouldnt engage flywheel. So today reinstalled the mini starter moving it to the outside of its slight travel. Everything was setup, so pushed the starter button and immediately there was a roar. Ran into several problems. The lower radiator hose consists of a section of 1 3/4 in. and 2 in. hose, with inline drain and petcock. So there are 4 hose clamps, the petcock, and a bushing present. Finally appear to have the leaks stopped.

A big bad surprise was my new front mounted elect. fan. As the temp. was rising and the water pump mounted mech. fan wasnt doing the job, I flipped on the elect. fan and went up only to find out it was blowing air away from the radiator. Tried switching the wires but same thing. So took it off and put a squirrel cage in front blowing at the rad.

The most important problem is one I need advice on. I shut the engine off twice, each time at a temp of 205-209. After turning off the ignition the motor dieseled. Not good. Do you think it indicates the regular gas isnt going to cut it? Can too low an octane in an engine that wants higher octane cause this? Cranking pressure/cylinder pressure are high with a 9.2 CR and relatively short duration. Not much pressure bleadoff from valve overlap. Initial advance set at 5 or 6 degrees. One shutoff was done after running engine to temp with vacuum advance, and the other shutoff occurred after running engine up to temp with vacuum advance disconnected.

All things considered I am pleased with the 24 minute breakin. Engine sounded great, the accel dist. module worked(!), no oil leaks, appear to not have mixed up the direction of the rear oil seal and got the rings right. Spark plugs looked scarry clean no oil cloud. and vacuum at a steady 2000 rpm was 19.

 

Mike,

Maybe....But you also may have some hot spots from running it at 2000 rpm and maybe the heat range of the plugs could be changed.

The machine shop guy told me I may have to run mid grade in mine.....You might also try a cooler t-stat. and maybe run it a little richer. If it was running lean during your cam break-in it might have heated up the exhaust valves a bit causing the "run-on"

 

All very good points. I did some research last night on detonation and preignition. I'll put in a 160 thermo. Also probably have some extra jets on hand to richen the carb, and if not there are two larger Autolite carbs on the shelf which should run a little richer.

The regular gas can be easily drained. Will replace with premium. The intake gaskets used are the type with wide open unrestricted manifold crossover ports, so maybe they were contributing some to a heated A/F mixture. Since the stock 2V manifold is supposed to be temporary I decided to use that type of gasket before the changeout.

Plugs used were Accel, and I think they are a cold range plug but will check.

Also need to find an elect. 14 in. fan that can push/pull.

The early rocker stand baffles were in place. I had found earlier that they wouldnt be needed. The increased height of the rocker shaft resulted in the adjuster screws having to be far in to make up the difference. Since that results in a small decrease in valve lift figured the lower spring pressures would help on break in. Removing them may give a degree or two more duration and help drop dynamic pressure a few lbs.

Lastly, reset the initial timing to 3 degrees and take the dist. to Bill's (retired mech. friend) to limit vacuum advance.

 

Mike, congratulations!

Zero-decked and all, right? So, I have to wonder if you'll continue to see dieseling until the rings get seated. Oil in the combustion chambers can contribute to this sort of issue.

You might try using Water-wetter to help with the cooling.

 

considering its a new engine I doubt you got carbon build up. Carbon holds in heat and causes pre ignition. Problem is you probably have to go to a higher grade fuel that doesnt ignite with the higher (fuel that takes more heat to ignite) combustion chamber temps.

Sparkplugs how ever woulnt have any effect on this. If you are running a cold plug I hope you plan on doing alot of driving that is what they are designed for. Hot plugs are designed for short trips where the engine doesnt get that hot. They hold the heat more than transfer it to the heads to burn off carbon deposites where a cold expell heat so it doesnt burn the plugs.

Only thing I can say is its a new engine and has cylinder head temps running hotter than it would after break in.

 

Mike, did you ever have any doubt that it wouldnt run? All this news in the Y forum makes me want to go outside and do SOMETHING!

Congrats again Mike,
Kevin

 

Paul, there wasnt much oil in the combustion chambers by the look of the plugs. Pistons are .004 below deck.

Rusty, thanks on the plug expl. I get mixed up on indications for use. The truck doesnt see a lot of driving but trips are almost always at least to town and back, 20 mile round trip.

Kevin, I always have doubts due to being a chronic worryer .

A guy told me that one of the causes of run-on is an idle set too high. Well, since the breakin called for a fast idle of 2000, I set the idle screw to match that engine speed. When the ignition was turned off idle screw was in the same position. Maybe something so simple as the idle screw setting is a player?

The electric fan is figured out. Not only do the wires need to be reversed, but also the fan blades reversed. Learned the trick while looking for another fan in ebay. One of the item descriptions turned on the light bulb.

 

Yep I have gotten mixed up on the sparkplugs meaning also. If you drive the vehicle no more than 20 miles round trip I would probably consider a medium heat range plug (between hot and cold plugs offered) if in 500 miles or when ever you go to do the first oil change there is carbon build up on the plugs. I drive mine alot and got cold plugs in mine (drive up to 80 miles a week sometimes just cruising) and they are a chalky white color no carbon.

Only way I would recomend a hot plug is if you drive very short distances like 1/4 mile - 3/4 mile. That is what I am using in my 63 cause it was built for 1/4 mile track use.

But likewise though if you plan on taking the car on the highway for those 20 miles at high rates of speed (60 - 90 mph) I would stick with the cold plugs cause the engine will end up getting hot enough to burn the carbon off anyways.

The worrying part sounds like me. I am worrying that the heads on the 292 sitting in the car are gong to be no good from sitting so long or that the engine is locked up or this and that.

 

Things look good. Changed out the gas and put in 92 octane. Replaced the 1.02 venturi Autolite with 48 jets with a 1.14 venturi Autolite with 51 jets. Put initial timing at 3 degrees. Left vacuum advance connected.

Ran engine at 1700 to 2000 rpm. When temp finally reached 180 turned on the elect. fan and temp didnt exceed 185.

Took the truck for its first drive in 15 months without grill or fenders. Accelerated decelerated up and down a hill to help rings seat. Temperature never went above 160 with elect. fan off, and ambient temp of 67. No indication of detonation or preignition. So engine and radiator are working well.

If you want to see the motor in its current configuration I put a pic in my gallery. It is toward the end. The small air filter is going to be changed back to a 14 in., because it hisses too much. Tried posting the pic here but my computer is too messed up to get it done.

 

Nicely done Mike!!! There is hope.... one fine day!