4.9L engine lift SNAP!
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4.9L engine lift SNAP!
Hello Guru,<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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Technical question. <o></o>
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What is the proper way to lift an engine when replacing right engine mount 96 F150 4.9L? <o></o>
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Here is why I’m asking. I was replacing my oil pan gasket on my 96 F150 4.9L this weekend when I noticed my passenger side engine mount rubber had deteriorated to the point where it was metal on metal. My Haynes repair book suggested I replace it. To get at the bolts and the bracket I jacketed the engine up another two inches. That’s when I heard a SNAP! I panicked because I hadn't loosened the lift side engine mount or any other engine mount bolt. I looked for damage but couldn’t see anything wrong. Then I saw the wood block I was using to protect the oil pan from the floor had cracked. I’m hoping the block was the noise I heard but still could it have been something else?<o></o>
<o></o>
Could damaged to the drive train, engine, or transmission been done? How can check? What is the proper way to replace passenger side engine mount? What engine bolts should I remove first before I left the engine to do such a repair?<o></o>
<o></o>
Thanks<o></o>
J<o></o>
<o></o>
fficeffice" /><o></o><o
></o>Technical question. <o
></o><o
></o>What is the proper way to lift an engine when replacing right engine mount 96 F150 4.9L? <o
></o><o
></o>Here is why I’m asking. I was replacing my oil pan gasket on my 96 F150 4.9L this weekend when I noticed my passenger side engine mount rubber had deteriorated to the point where it was metal on metal. My Haynes repair book suggested I replace it. To get at the bolts and the bracket I jacketed the engine up another two inches. That’s when I heard a SNAP! I panicked because I hadn't loosened the lift side engine mount or any other engine mount bolt. I looked for damage but couldn’t see anything wrong. Then I saw the wood block I was using to protect the oil pan from the floor had cracked. I’m hoping the block was the noise I heard but still could it have been something else?<o
></o><o
></o>Could damaged to the drive train, engine, or transmission been done? How can check? What is the proper way to replace passenger side engine mount? What engine bolts should I remove first before I left the engine to do such a repair?<o
></o><o
></o>Thanks<o
></o>J<o
></o><o
></o>
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
All that's usually in the instructions for jacking up the engine is to unbolt the motor mounts, and possibly the exhaust pipe, and then remove a few of the intake components that are back near the firewall. If you heard a snap sound, there's a few possibilities of things it could be.
First off, it very well could have been the wood block, since it did crack. The only other things I can think of that it could be are the other motor mount, or a manifold bolt. The motor mount could be a possibility since the engine was bolted to it, and you forced it up two inches. If this is the case, you should probably be replacing both motor mounts anyway. Might as well while you're in there.
The manifold bolt is unlikely (but possible), since you're exhaust pipe should be able to flex more than 2 inches without pulling on your engine enough to break something. You can quickly check though, just by checking to see (or feel, as some are hidden) if all 16 bolts are still in place.
My guess is A) the wooden block, or B) the other motor mount. Either way, replace both mounts. Just unbolt both, the exhaust, and then watch the top slowly to be sure you don't push any of the components near the top back into the firewall.
PS: Is it just my computer, or is your post littered with smiley faces?
First off, it very well could have been the wood block, since it did crack. The only other things I can think of that it could be are the other motor mount, or a manifold bolt. The motor mount could be a possibility since the engine was bolted to it, and you forced it up two inches. If this is the case, you should probably be replacing both motor mounts anyway. Might as well while you're in there.
The manifold bolt is unlikely (but possible), since you're exhaust pipe should be able to flex more than 2 inches without pulling on your engine enough to break something. You can quickly check though, just by checking to see (or feel, as some are hidden) if all 16 bolts are still in place.
My guess is A) the wooden block, or B) the other motor mount. Either way, replace both mounts. Just unbolt both, the exhaust, and then watch the top slowly to be sure you don't push any of the components near the top back into the firewall.
PS: Is it just my computer, or is your post littered with smiley faces?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: raymond alberta
i see many smileys too lol
your driveline will have plenty of room for 2" so look at your other motor mount and the exhaust if it was already rotted out a bit it might not take alot of stress to crack it fan shroud is a possibility
your driveline will have plenty of room for 2" so look at your other motor mount and the exhaust if it was already rotted out a bit it might not take alot of stress to crack it fan shroud is a possibility
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Seems like someone either copied and pasted their post from a M$ office application, or their IE version is a piece of... yeah.
Looks like everything else was covered...
Looks like everything else was covered...
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I typed the original in Microsoft outlook and paste it. I like to write everything in outlook at work that way if someone looks over my shoulder it looks like I'm working. The < and smiley faces must be due to a formate error. Now I know not to do that again.
I'll pick up my new engine mount tommorrow. I'm only going to replace the one that's damaged. The part is $80 at the Ford dealer. I tried an after market from Kragen $29 but it didn't fit. The driver side rubber bushing that succures the control arm is almost gone too. Its the exhaust thats too close to those rubber bushings. I wonder if the poluurathane bushings would hold up better?
Since this trucks a 4x4 and I need to replace the control arm bushings. Would replacing all the bushing with polyurathane ones be a good idea? Anyone have a thought on polyurathane vs factory rubber? Would the ride improve or make it more rough since the polyurathane is hadder than rubber. (maybe i should start a new tread or this question)
Thanks for all the seggestions.
I'll pick up my new engine mount tommorrow. I'm only going to replace the one that's damaged. The part is $80 at the Ford dealer. I tried an after market from Kragen $29 but it didn't fit. The driver side rubber bushing that succures the control arm is almost gone too. Its the exhaust thats too close to those rubber bushings. I wonder if the poluurathane bushings would hold up better?
Since this trucks a 4x4 and I need to replace the control arm bushings. Would replacing all the bushing with polyurathane ones be a good idea? Anyone have a thought on polyurathane vs factory rubber? Would the ride improve or make it more rough since the polyurathane is hadder than rubber. (maybe i should start a new tread or this question)
Thanks for all the seggestions.
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From: Boise, Idaho
$80 from the dealer?? Personally, I'd pass. It's possible the one from Kragen was just for the wrong year, as they change a little throughout. If you have a second vehicle, take the mount you're intending to replace down to them so they can visually match it. $80 just seems a little steep, but that's just me.
From my experience, polyurethane is generally better. It does stiffen the ride a little bit, but is much stronger and more in control.
From my experience, polyurethane is generally better. It does stiffen the ride a little bit, but is much stronger and more in control.
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I was shocked by the price too but what can I do. The part from Kragen looked good but the top arm that goes to the third bolt was just a bit longer then the one from Ford. Long enough that the bolt holes won't line up.
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