I checked the pressures and the following are the results:
@ 1500 rpm
High - 265" - 285"
Sprayed water directly onto the condenser and the pressure dropped rather quickly to 200". This would indicate that I likely need to replace the fan clutch which I will probably do.

@ 1500 rpm
Low - 40" - 45"
After spraying the condenser the pressure dropped to approx. 32".

Are these pressures reasonable?

I also found a label under the hood indicates 2 lbs. 6 oz. (38 oz.s) of r134a which means I am slightly under this quantity considering that I used about 34 oz.s.

 

I checked the pressures and the following are the results:
@ 1500 rpm
High - 265" - 285"
Sprayed water directly onto the condenser and the pressure dropped rather quickly to 200". This would indicate that I likely need to replace the fan clutch which I will probably do.

Yep. The fan clutch is toast. Get a Motorcraft fan clutch! Many aftermarket clutches fall short at idle and aren't much better than your weak OEM unit on a converted system. They also don't seem to last very long.
Hose out the radiator and condenser fins with detergent and water while you're in there replacing the clutch.

@ 1500 rpm
Low - 40" - 45"
After spraying the condenser the pressure dropped to approx. 32".

Are these pressures reasonable?

Yes.Once the condenser was cooled, the pressures fell right in line. Post them again after you replace the clutch. 1500rpm, Max AC, High blower, doors open. Post the ambient temp, too.

I also found a label under the hood indicates 2 lbs. 6 oz. (38 oz.s) of r134a which means I am slightly under this quantity considering that I used about 34 oz.s.

You're in the ballpark. Once you replace the fan cluitch, you can measure the temp of the evaporatoir inlet and outlet pipes and tweak the charge if need be. You have to fix the airflow issue first.

 

I read your very through and informative post. To be honest, as much as I love my Bronco - its just not possible to come up the money to replace as much as you did. Even though I want to and intend to keep this Beauty on the road for long, long time - I just can't come up with the entry fee right now.

I had looked into purchasing one of those A/C eliminator pulley's for 351 W, which are sold through SVT/FMS. Basically, you remove the A/C compressor - replace it with the pulley an stand; it allows you to keep the serpentine belt routing as factory.

It seems like a good option, until I can build up the war chest. What I don't want to do is go the cheap route, end up contaminating the system or doubling the cost thru false economy.

Symtoms: The compressor started making noises, then eventually stopped turning. At that time, I figured it was only a defective clutch. since than the A/C compressor has frozen ... when I removed the belt, the clutch would not even turn (frozen solid). I'm "guessing" the unit is toast.

What would you suggest (then the obvious - do the repair!) the will allow me to get it back on the road? If you think the bypass pulley idea will work - what would be the best way to minimize additional damage to the rest of the system/hoses/etc. until I can get it disassembled and repaired?

I hate being cheap, but times are tough ... this is the better alternative than giving up my '95 Bronco. I was using my '81, but it was just got totaled this week. Someone Broad-sided it (ran a signal) at 50 mph ~. Broke the front axel, bent the frame, engine moved - I'm pretty sure it saved me from worse personal injury - these are some rugged pieces or rawhide.

 

Just grab a compressor from the local Pick and Pull and bolt it in place. That will keep the lines connected so dirt doesn't get in. When the clutch isn't engaged, it's just an idler anyway. My local self service yard gets about $20 for a compressor, much better than 50-75 for the idler kit.

It sounds like your compressor grenaded internally. I'd say you're looking at a compressor, condenser and accumulator at minimum. Post back when you are ready to repair it.

 

You make good sense, thanks. That sounds like a plan. So, as long as the sacrifical replacement (clutch drive) spins, it'll be good enough to tide me over. The main thing is just to maintain/restore the belt routing.

 

Can anyone tell me how the condenser comes out? I have heard on another forum that I can get to it from the front by removing the grill, center core support behind the grill, and the tranny coolers. On other vehicles I have had to remove the radiator and associated crap to get to the condenser. Manny thanks!

1994 Ford Bronco, 5.8L, E40D auto.

 

If I remember correctly, all I had to do was undo the upper radiator mounts and pull the radiator out of the way. You should be able to see what mounts have to be undone on the condensor once you pull the radiator back.

I did not have to remove the grill and I also did not have to remove the radiator.

Mine was a '95 Bronco with the 5.8 so I think it is likely going to be the same on yours.

 

Thanks for the info on that. I will give that a shot when my new one shows up.

 

Sorry to dig up an old thread. But I need to replace my compressor, it froze completely as has happened to a few others.
I bought a reman from Autozone and was going to install it, but I do not feel up to evacuating/recharging the system. Will it hurt anything if I just bolt it in place for now, and get the system professionally done later on when it's actually hot enough to need the a/c working again?

 

Keep the shipping caps on the compressor until you're ready to leak check, evacuate , and recharge the system. and don't connect it electrically.
regards
rikard

 

OK thanks

 

Oh so probably don't put the hoses back on either then?

 

That's right. If your system is now or has been open it will have moisture in the system. If you connect those lines to the compressor the moisture will get in the oil. In the HVAC/R industry we will evacuate a system and put in a holding charge of dry nitrogen or just enough refrigerant to keep it above "0" if were waitng to recharge the system at a later date. On one of my cars I did the same thing as your doing and also sealed the hose ends with plugs.
regards
rikard

 

OK got it I think I will be able to get it done today, I have never done this before! I've never even owned anything with AC before.

So later on I guess I will need to replace the accumulator and orifice tube and then have it recharged.

 

OK it seems to run now I hope I didn't forget anything! I drove it around the block, guess I could take the core in for another test drive