When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have recently converted the front over to disc brakes. Now I am going to replace the front lines (since my passenger front line is plugged or something because it wont bleed...) It would not bleed even before I took the drums off. Now since everything is going to be new, should I get a new distribution box with a proportion valve built in for 150 ish or just clean the box and install a prop valve alone for 50 or less???
Early Broncos are a unique critter, here's what I would do and why.
Skip all factory style "proportioning valves" they aren't really proportioning valves just juction blocks with a safety valve in them that really only causes problems. Just get yourself or use your juction block to split the front line to each side. There should never be a front proportioning valve.
Get youself an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve like this. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...view=sku&RC=10
These are placed in line to the rear brakes and are used to adjust a limiting of rear brake power. Place in in line to the rear brakes in a place where you can reach it from the drivers seat.
Why, rear brake power balance from front to rear varries greatly from vehicle to vehicle and has alot to do with wheelbase and height, as it effects the weight shift under braking. As you are both short and tall you will have alot of weight shift under braking making the rear lock up way easy. Use this adjustable valve to adjust your brakes to the point where the rear locks just before the front. This will alow you maximum braking and control with the front doing most of the work as they should and the rears keeping the rear end behind you and in control as long as possible.
How does your Bronco stop? Does it stop evenly and not lock up front or rear prematurely? You need to determine where you are losing flow at. You may have a pinched hard line somewhere on the axle.
Every Bronco I've done the front or 4 wheel disc conversion reacts differently. Sometimes, the factory block will work and there are times that the factory disc brake prop valve does. (yes, a real prop valve). The only times I've ever used an adjustable prop valve was in a racing application where the braking needs change from track or road conditions. Or if I couldn't dial in with the factory stuff.
Before you start changing parts, you need to get the current setup working properly. You may find that you need to change nothing to get it to stop like it should.
I agree, you only need a rear adjustable proportioning valve if you have problems with the rear locking up. When I did mine I didn't need anything and the brakes worked great. What master cylinder are you using? You either need to swap to a front disk rear/drum master or you need to remove the residual pressure valve out of the stock drum/drum master. A fairly simple procedure. If you have the stock drum/drum and don't remove the residual valve the front brakes will drag slightly.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.