blowing codes
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blowing codes
My 3.0L ranger just came out of warrenty and now has a few issues, first the engin temp sensor will go to normal tepm and then after driving around a while it will go to about half that, i havent done a coolent flush on it since i got the truck new and now it has approx 25006 miles on it and so far its blow a P0174 (cylender bank 2 lean) twice, i cleared the first time it happend and then again a day later and after a new tank of fuel, my gas needle will hang up and say its empty and the light will go on after filling occasionaly, any advice would be much appreciated
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From: SW Va
In your "brake light" thread, you mentioned that your using coolant, with no external leak signs & it was suggested there that maybe the O2 sensor for bank two has been affected, as just a sniff of coolant will take out an O2 sensor, so maybe thats why you have the P0174.
Also check your engine oil, if it has signs of water in it (milkshake look), change the oil pronto & get the coolant leak fixed, or you'll be looking at major engine repair, as coolant in the oil will quickly ruin bearings.
Pulling the battery cable to wipe the code, won't fix the problem.
On the fuel sender question.
Is your 3.0L a flex fuel engine????
Don't know what kind or quality fuel you've been using, but some have had high sulphur content over the past few years, (Shell & those they sold too is one that comes to mind), that have corroded up fuel sending units & messed up fuel pumps.
Chevron claims their Techron Concentrate Plus can clean up fuel sender corrosion & wake up the sender, so maybe it's worth a try & Advance Auto has a two-for-one deal on Techron.
On the engine temp fluctuation, maybe suspect the thermostat.
A bunch of thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
Also check your engine oil, if it has signs of water in it (milkshake look), change the oil pronto & get the coolant leak fixed, or you'll be looking at major engine repair, as coolant in the oil will quickly ruin bearings.
Pulling the battery cable to wipe the code, won't fix the problem.
On the fuel sender question.
Is your 3.0L a flex fuel engine????
Don't know what kind or quality fuel you've been using, but some have had high sulphur content over the past few years, (Shell & those they sold too is one that comes to mind), that have corroded up fuel sending units & messed up fuel pumps.
Chevron claims their Techron Concentrate Plus can clean up fuel sender corrosion & wake up the sender, so maybe it's worth a try & Advance Auto has a two-for-one deal on Techron.
On the engine temp fluctuation, maybe suspect the thermostat.
A bunch of thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.
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ok just did a full check of system no leaks but there are white flakes in my coolant overflow tank and a fair amount of them, no leakes in my intake or vac system so im going to do a coolant flush and put a bottle of chevron techtron through my tank because i think it might be sulfur build up, and my ranger is not a flex fuel its a regular gas and i only run bp or quick check both us amco gas and i run regular through the truck im thinking the lean code is coming from my maf sensor not outputing the right data becasue of the new intake and it only blew the codes when i was really in it
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From: SW Va
Well lets think about this some more, the MAF may be dirty, especially if your using an oiled foam, or cotton gauze type air filter, but the MAF affects Both banks, not just one side of your 3.0L, so check the lean bank's O2 sensors switching range & speed with a scantool that'll read it's PID to the computer, because if the engine is ingesting coolant, it'll adversley affect the O2 senor seeing the coolant.
So did you do a coolant system pressure test, with the adapter that also lets you check the radiator cap, or a compression, or a scantool cylinder balance test????
If the temp gauge is indicating an over cooling condition, it's likely the thermostat sticking open, but with a scantool you can also monitor the computers engine coolant temp, as a second opinion to the temp gauge sending unit, in case it has a problem.
So did you do a coolant system pressure test, with the adapter that also lets you check the radiator cap, or a compression, or a scantool cylinder balance test????
If the temp gauge is indicating an over cooling condition, it's likely the thermostat sticking open, but with a scantool you can also monitor the computers engine coolant temp, as a second opinion to the temp gauge sending unit, in case it has a problem.
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didnt do the pressure test.... ford dealer gave it to me said im not leaking coolant so it has to be some other problems i only have a pocket scan so ill have to go to autozone and borrow a scantool and track the problem down and it only blows the code when the motor is cold, and its below like 60 outside and i get into it, so that might help track the problem down
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