fuel line quesions
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
Well, just having had to clear out my filter and lines a couple days ago so because my dad ran it out of fuel. it does sometimes take a bit to get the lines cleared. It had finally popped off to basically run out of fuel again because of the air pocket in the filter, as well as return lines. I had to re-bleed the air out of the filter housing, then it finally fired again.
Some things to do/consider: When cranking and bleeding the filter, unplug the injection pump to prevent further air problems in the pump. Once the filter is completely cleared, then plug the IP in again. If there is likelyhood of air in the injection lines, crack them all loose and crank again to clear the lines. When you see fuel start squirting out the top of the injector nuts, tighten them back down.
Some things to do/consider: When cranking and bleeding the filter, unplug the injection pump to prevent further air problems in the pump. Once the filter is completely cleared, then plug the IP in again. If there is likelyhood of air in the injection lines, crack them all loose and crank again to clear the lines. When you see fuel start squirting out the top of the injector nuts, tighten them back down.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
There is about 3/4 of a tank in it. When i said i had fuel at the sch. valve i should clear it up. It would squirt for a second then stop and then do it again. Now this may be stupid but i was messing with the "shower head" at the bottom of the pick up tube trying to make sure it was clean and i pulled the shower head down the shaft about a 1/4 inch and then put it back so maybe i damaged it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
lol That is the first time I have heard it reffered to as showerhead. With 3/4 of a tank that shouldn't be an issue. The fuel will pulse at the schrader but should be clean fuel no air in it. do a volume test 1/3 pint in ten seconds that will narrow down your problem.
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Ok here is where im at. the truck has been sitting since thursday. i took as much fuel i could get out of the rear tank. Yesterday i came home and no leak. Today i came home and there is a spot about 3 ft x 4 ft of leaked fuel FROM THE REAR LINES! So what i have done today: i took the shr. valve out and the fuel came out in some very very short bursts so i kept cranking and it came out steady and stopped for a second and then again steady. It would definately be 1/3 pint. so i stopped there. fellro86 said to crack the injector nuts, is that the bottom most nut, or the one above the return lines? and when he said to unplug the injector pump does he mean the bigger black plug on the right side?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
ok i loosened that and then cranked it and fuel bubled out from the top of most of the injecor lines. i tightened them and then still no start
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Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
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I'm a total noob here, but I have an idea that might help, at least logically after reading this whole thing I think it might. Since you don't use the rear tank at all anyway, why don't you just crimp both lines to that tank and cut it off completely, or cap them on the ends, i would venture a guess that something in your selector valve (which i assume is the switch to go between tanks) is stuck in a state that allows for fuel to pass through from either tank.
You are getting air in there from the rear tank as it is pulling from both tanks. Plug the lines to the rear tank, and get any air out. I'll be curious to see what happens.
You are getting air in there from the rear tank as it is pulling from both tanks. Plug the lines to the rear tank, and get any air out. I'll be curious to see what happens.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
Better yet, bypass the valve completely. It takes a 3/3" steel line and a 5/16" steel line. The o-rings in the line ends will seal to the steel line, then use the plastic cable ties to hold the lines together. Done it, worked fine. You do need to either keep the valve plugged in or bypass witht he wires as well to maintain a gauge reading.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Better yet, bypass the valve completely. It takes a 3/3" steel line and a 5/16" steel line. The o-rings in the line ends will seal to the steel line, then use the plastic cable ties to hold the lines together. Done it, worked fine. You do need to either keep the valve plugged in or bypass witht he wires as well to maintain a gauge reading.
I'm wondering if either of our solutions worked? I guess both come to the same end, your's is actually right though for the most part while mine was a ghetto rigging, lol. Since he hasn't returned though my guess is that he figured it out one way or another.