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53-55 Cab Value Question

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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Question 53-55 Cab Value Question

Since the floors and the cab mounts are in such bad shape on my 55 cab, I was thinking about buying a spare cab that is hopefully better than mine to start with. I have found one, and they have already done several things to the cab and are now selling it for $350. They have sealed up and closed the gas filler hole on the left side of the cab, replaced the rockers, cab corners, and all of the lower front firewall area, and all of the flooring. It does not come with doors. I can't tell from the 20 or so pictures that they sent me if the metal work has been done well or not, but the cab looks in really good shape except some rust around all the upper drip edges of the cab and window areas.

What else should I be looking for on this cab or any cab for that matter, and how much have you been seeing them go for?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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That's a LOT of work done to consider the cab to be in good shape, and without doors, you really can't tell how square everything was kept while that extensive amount of work was done. Then it still has roof edge rust to deal with??? Sounds to me like the cowl vent was jacked up and a new cab built under it. My gut says you're just buying more/someone elses troubles. There are much better out there IMHO. Why don't you contact the guys at Carolina Classics Carolina Classics, Obsolete Ford Truck Parts, truck part, ford truck part, truck body parts, classic truck part, pickup truck part, old truck part, classic ford truck part, antique truck part, old ford truck part, auto truck part, ford truck restorat here in Durham and see if they have a cab or know where one is close by. They are real nice people, and if they do I can run over and look at it for you.
Charlotte is 2 1/2 hrs away and I'm headed in the other direction this weekend. We are racing in VA Beach on Sunday.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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Chuck, Send me your email in a PM, and I can send you the pics so you can see what I am talking about.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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If you're not in a hurry I think you could do better. The deal doesn't seem out of line, but it's not smoking either. I've seen complete part trucks for $500 without the rust around here, so for just a cab, I honestly wouldn't pay more than $100 unless it was something really special. Then again I sorta have to play hardball, lol...
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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My thought was that I can't even buy the replacement parts let alone the labor that already went into this particular cab for less than $350, so I figured it was a decent deal. I did also think I may be buying other persons problem as well, but who knows.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 01:04 PM
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Why not just fix what you have rather than buying another cab that sounds like was in even worse shape to begin with? Since the body mounts floor and cab corners are all interrelated and repair panels are easily obtained (for less than 350.00 I'd guess) You could just fix it all at once. If you have that trailer available to you, you could strip the truck down ready to work on and bring it down here. We could replace the rot over a weekend.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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Well, if you're not in a hurry give craigslist a try. Posting a want ad stirs up more than people post, about 20 times as much.

Another thought to consider is the cab is considered the only thing you can't change and still call it the same truck, least where I live. So legally you could go from an f-250 '55, to a f-100 '53 or whatever. Just food for thought, not trying to talk you out of it or anything, being stuck in Wyoming has caused me to just have to fix everything and have no choice about it, ha.

Is it just the floors and the cab mounts that yours needs? How are the corners? Firewall?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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So far, I think my firewall is fine. My rockers, front cab mounts, entire floor, and might as well do the rear cab corners should be replaced. I al.so like the idea of covering over the gas filler port as well, since I was thinking about running the fuel tank in the rear of the truck in the frame.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 02:54 PM
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Granite this is no where near you, but an example:

1953 ford cab


I don't know what prices are like where you're at. Usually I see vintage cabs go for $200-500 when the person selling it knows what they have or are patient with the sale. Looking takes a lot of time and effort, but can save you hundreds and hundreds of dollars.

Personally though I think the cab you already have is in pretty good shape and something easy to repair. Granite I can only see what you've posted on it, but fixing rust really is fairly easy, and I don't see a new cab being any less work.

I can't tell on the pictures, but does the rust go through anywhere or is it just surface rust? I could literally stand on the ground when inside my car when I bought it.

I'd suggest replacing the eaten steel, but thats fun to me. Take an ice pick and stab around, it will show you real quick what can stay and what needs to go. Then use a wire wheel to clean up surface rust and to be sure there's not a problem hidden. Then its just cut and replace. Seriously could do it over the weekend, and it probably save you a lot of money.

Can you tell I'm eager to get to work on mine? lol...

Btw, thats a good looking truck
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 03:23 PM
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That looks nice....you could prob get 700 or better for that here in the rust belt...then again most 53-55 trucks in this neck of the woods were gone before Nixon was pardoned.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 03:33 PM
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See if this cab you just posted up was close, I would probably just go get it assuming it is square. I guess the real issue is whether or not the cab is still square once all the metal work has been done. Here are some pics of my floor on my current cab.





 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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Dude, that cab looks solid except for the driver's 1/2 floor! That's not a major job at all, 1/2- 3/4 day and a great place to get your feet wet with doing sheetmetal welding/bodywork. Do you have a welder? what kind? know how to use it? Have a 4" angle grinder or similar? Indoor work space?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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Actually.. that really does look in good shape expect for the Drivers side part. When the rust comes up to your ankles, then it starts getting major, ha.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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Hey Guys. No, I have zero welding experience, no welder, now sure what kind to get. I don't have a great large indoor working space until I get some of these other parts rebuilt, painted, and placed out of the way. Then I could move the cab inside and start on it.

Chuck, in regard to your email, I do have a large equipment trailer and a big ole diesel to haul it anywhere I choose. So someday, when you have time, I will bring replacement parts, the cab, and all the ambition you can handle and come to your shop to do this work. And no I am not kidding.

From closer inspection, the rockers, cab mounts, and some of the floor has to be removed, and the cab corners appear to be in need of replacing as well.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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I'd find it a barrel of FUN! See your email for prep instructions. Git er done so we can set something up.
 
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