Hi, I just discovered this board. There's all kinds of stuff! Looks great. I've got an issue with my manual 5 speed. It wont shift into any gears unless the truck is off. The gears don't grind even if moderate pressure is applied to the shifter, it just wont go into gear. The clutch does not slip at all however my truck does have 111K miles on it and I have 33" tires and have never replace the clutch. I checked the fluid level on the slave cylinder reservior and it's full. And when I look through the service hole in the bellhousing I can see the throwout bearing moving in and out on the input shaft. Does this sound like the clutch needs to be replaced or does this sound like there is an issue with the slave cyliner? Thanks for any help!

 

I'd guess clutch or slave cylinder - and you must remove the transmission to replace either. I'd plan to replace both while you're in there, regardless of the culprit - it'll save doing it again in the near future. You might try bleeding the slave to get by until repairs can be made. This is how I drove to the 'rent's house one cold day after the slave failed. Dad and I spent the day pulling and replacing the tranny - it could be done quicker if you've done it before. Get someone to help (it's just like bleeding brakes,) watch out for the stream of brake fluid, because it eats paint.

 

I agree! Sounds like a hydraulic cylinder problem and bleeding it may take care of it. I just replaced my clutch and throw out bearing (boy what a PAIN in the A$$)
I have provided you some info on what I expierienced when repairing my trans. Its quite lengthy but factual!
While you have your trans out, Ide check those pins in the shift rails!

I would like to jot down a few thoughts about my experiences with conducting manual transmission repairs for anyone who has a F150 Manual Transmission (in my case it was a M5OD for a 97, 4.6L, 4X4). This job looked very intimidating at first but once I got started it turned out to be relatively straight forward. My summation “If you have the tools and need to save lots of dollars, GO FOR IT!
I had some questions that I asked some of the forum members to comment on and I thank all that responded. I am going to list some valuable LESSONS LEARNED that I hope some of you may be able to use in your quest to repair your own manual transmission problems.
1. It isn’t as difficult as you might think it is. If you have the tools, GO FOR IT!
2. DO NOT attempt to service the transmission through the top shift cover with the transmission still in the truck. There just isn’t enough room to pull the shifter cover up and clear the shift forks. It won’t come out even if you drop the trans and transfer case down as far as it will go!
3. Separate the transfer case from the transmission. It’s just TOO heavy and bulky to take the trans and transfer case out as one unit. There will not be any oil spillage from the space between the trans and the transfer case. If there is you have a bad seal. Drain the transfer case prior to removing it because the fluid in that case will leak out of the tail shaft housing of the transfer case!
4. Remove the magnetic drain plug from the trans and examine it for abnormal metal parts! Fine metal dust is normal. Big chunks are not! If there are big chunks on the magnet, stand by!
5. If you loose two gears i.e. 1st / 2nd or 3rd /4th or 5th and reverse the most probable cause is the 1/8” X 1” split roll pin that pins the shift fork to the shifter rail has fallen out. The repair was very simple. I drove in a new pin and JB welded it and ALL the rest of them in place.
6. There are many opinions and thoughts about what fluid should be used in a newer Ford manual trans. I decided to not experiment and use the stock MERCRON ATF but I did upgraded to a good synthetic ATF brand ( AAMCO V ).
7. Flush the inside of the trans clean with brake parts cleaner and examine the working parts for any damage. I found a small roller bearing looking part in the rear sump. After worrying about it for a day or two and asking numerous people what it was and where it went (NO ONE HAD A CLUE) I bolted it back together.
8. Fill the trans prior to sealing the top shifter cover back up. It’s a lot easier than trying to pour or pump it into to the fill hole!!! None will spill out because both ends are sealed.
9. I replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I only had 0.005” wear on my old disk but I replaced it any way. I found out that Ford had the entire setup cheaper than anywhere else did. $288. verses $344 - $380 from the local parts stores. I could have up graded to a Centerforce but the stock set up is more than satisfactory for my use. The new throw out bearing solved the noise problem that I had when the clutch was cold.
10. USE A 12 POINT SOCKET to remove the drive shaft bolts. DO NOT attempt to use a 6 point or 8-point socket. They are held in place with lock tight and are very tight. I rounded one of the bolts off when I tried to remove it with an 8 point. The 12 point worked like a champ! I got mine from Sears.
11. The new pressure plate needed to be adjusted prior to installation. The procedure is in the Haynes manual but it leaves a lot to be desired. I still do not know what the adjustment does but I set the plastic tabs to the specifications listed in the book (35/64”). When you press the pressure plate springs down with the hydraulic press the plastic tab will move clockwise as the pressure plate springs are compressed. When the plastic tab moves the specified distance stop compressing the springs and the tabs are set. It was simple after I saw how it worked.
12. The clutch hydraulic line was a real PAIN to remove from the hydraulic throw out cylinder. The little white plastic ring on the fitting that goes into the sleeve on the slave cylinder needs to be pressed all the way into the sleeve to release the springs that hold it in. Buy the special tool and save a lot of time!!
13. Bleeding the hydraulic clutch throw out bearing is a TWO man and a two pints of fluid operation. Take your time and get all of the air out.
14. I was VERY impressed with my repair efforts after everything was complete and I took it for a test drive. That spare part that I found in the rear sump was obviously a factory goof and not a critical part of anything inside because the trans works fine without it.
15. Good luck with your repairs.

 

Mine is doing the same thing. opened up one of those fance rubber plugs in the bell housing...yeah, lots a brake fluid. time to have fun and replace the slave cylinder. Oh well. Does anyone know if M5HD 1st and reverse gears will swap in for me. i want lower gears.

Andy

 

Thanks for the info. Mine is a 4x4 also. I got the clutch set on sunday and am going to swap it out next weekend. I'll post how it goes.