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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Sandblasting Frame POR15 vs Powder Coating

 
  #16  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:52 AM
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Don't over look 'chassis-saver '..goes on after a good scraping, but sandblasting is perfered. Finish is alot like POR15 , without all the prep.Just another option. Some folks get by just fine with a generous application of good ole Rustoleum, my brother coated an old frame with minimal prep,..it sat behind the shed for 10 years in the weather before doing anything to it, and it looked fine with just a good scrub...cheap too!
 
  #17  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cmoritz View Post
Don't over look 'chassis-saver '..goes on after a good scraping, but sandblasting is perfered. Finish is alot like POR15 , without all the prep.Just another option. Some folks get by just fine with a generous application of good ole Rustoleum, my brother coated an old frame with minimal prep,..it sat behind the shed for 10 years in the weather before doing anything to it, and it looked fine with just a good scrub...cheap too!

yes, getting it sealed to prevent water is the thing.. after that maintenance and looks for the intended use..

PC looks REALLY good on the show (trailer queens) vehicles..
and seems to be required at that level

Sam
 
  #18  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:54 AM
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sandblasting

In your original post you mentioned lots of undercoating. If you don't have rust issues, blasting isn't really needed. Plus, I don't think blasting is very effective on undercoating. Clean and strip it yourself and see what shape it is in. May just need to paint it.
 
  #19  
Old 04-15-2009, 03:54 PM
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I used POR-15 on my frame and I'm very happy with it. It went on easy enough and less than a quart did the whole frame. My truck hit the road in 2006 and so far it's holding up well.
 
  #20  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:35 PM
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Question

Is it it safe to say that if you grind the frame down to bare metal to get rid of all rust, paint, etc, and then use Dupli-Color self-etching epoxy primer, and then use a Dupli-Color Gloss Black as the top coat, that it will do just as well of a job of sealing and painting the frame for a good long lasting paint job on the frame?
 
  #21  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Glockem45 View Post
Is it it safe to say that if you grind the frame down to bare metal to get rid of all rust, paint, etc, and then use Dupli-Color self-etching epoxy primer, and then use a Dupli-Color Gloss Black as the top coat, that it will do just as well of a job of sealing and painting the frame for a good long lasting paint job on the frame?
yes, BUT.. you have to paint before the primer flashes.. else you have to sand.. and sanding the multi-surfaced chassis to get the primer roughed is a pita.. and will lead to peeling whereever you don't get it roughed..

if you prime, and then inside the primer flash time paint, you'll be ok..

Sam
 
  #22  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:47 PM
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YES!

(But metal should be warm when painting.)
 
  #23  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1 View Post
YES!

(But metal should be warm when painting.)
And my guess is it ain't warm yet up north yet is it?
 
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Old 04-15-2009, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
yes, BUT.. you have to paint before the primer flashes.. else you have to sand.. and sanding the multi-surfaced chassis to get the primer roughed is a pita.. and will lead to peeling whereever you don't get it roughed..

if you prime, and then inside the primer flash time paint, you'll be ok..

Sam

Hey Sam,

I was thinking about doing the frame in sections if I were to do the sanding, priming, and painting all myself. Otherwise, I will just strip the truck down, and then take the frame up to the local sandblasting and powedercoating place and drop 7 bills on the table and say do that frame in gloss black powdercoat please.
 
  #25  
Old 04-15-2009, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Old F1 View Post
Use the money for beer,
There is wisdom in this Forum...........
 
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Glockem45 View Post
And my guess is it ain't warm yet up north yet is it?
Well, the real reason is I sprayed a frame once when it was too cold and the paint did not stick, BUT;

itís not warm, as matter of fact itís cold. I think Al Gore (and his Canadian buddy David Suzuki) should get out of their heated mansions and come a help me with my frozen sewer problem, no global warming here this long winter
 
  #27  
Old 04-15-2009, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by oldguy829 View Post
In your original post you mentioned lots of undercoating. If you don't have rust issues, blasting isn't really needed. Plus, I don't think blasting is very effective on undercoating. Clean and strip it yourself and see what shape it is in. May just need to paint it.
I was hoping that blasting would make easy work of the undercoating. Some of the under coating is really on there and a bit tar like. How if I go the DYI route do I get this stuff off?

FYI We are in shorts here... Mid 70's great for painting.
 
  #28  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by eman92082 View Post
There is wisdom in this Forum...........
Indeed!!

How did I let this one slip by?
 
  #29  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:08 PM
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Por 15



PC is all show...if thats what you want..but for me, who will drive it regularly
POR 15 - Goes on easy is less expensive then PC and is more resistant to chipping...and rusting again if you metal prep'd it.
 

Last edited by Flat48; 04-15-2009 at 09:15 PM. Reason: photo link didnt work?
  #30  
Old 04-15-2009, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by TxF100 View Post
I was hoping that blasting would make easy work of the undercoating. Some of the under coating is really on there and a bit tar like. How if I go the DYI route do I get this stuff off?
Varsol (parts solvent) or diesel fuel, paint scrapper, wire brush, rubber gloves, lots and lots of elbow grease and the beer that you bought with all the money you saved. You might want to rent a pressure washer after itís softened up?
 

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