Sandblasting Frame POR15 vs Powder Coating
#16
Don't over look 'chassis-saver '..goes on after a good scraping, but sandblasting is perfered. Finish is alot like POR15 , without all the prep.Just another option. Some folks get by just fine with a generous application of good ole Rustoleum, my brother coated an old frame with minimal prep,..it sat behind the shed for 10 years in the weather before doing anything to it, and it looked fine with just a good scrub...cheap too!
#17
Don't over look 'chassis-saver '..goes on after a good scraping, but sandblasting is perfered. Finish is alot like POR15 , without all the prep.Just another option. Some folks get by just fine with a generous application of good ole Rustoleum, my brother coated an old frame with minimal prep,..it sat behind the shed for 10 years in the weather before doing anything to it, and it looked fine with just a good scrub...cheap too!
yes, getting it sealed to prevent water is the thing.. after that maintenance and looks for the intended use..
PC looks REALLY good on the show (trailer queens) vehicles..
and seems to be required at that level
Sam
#18
#20
Is it it safe to say that if you grind the frame down to bare metal to get rid of all rust, paint, etc, and then use Dupli-Color self-etching epoxy primer, and then use a Dupli-Color Gloss Black as the top coat, that it will do just as well of a job of sealing and painting the frame for a good long lasting paint job on the frame?
#21
Is it it safe to say that if you grind the frame down to bare metal to get rid of all rust, paint, etc, and then use Dupli-Color self-etching epoxy primer, and then use a Dupli-Color Gloss Black as the top coat, that it will do just as well of a job of sealing and painting the frame for a good long lasting paint job on the frame?
if you prime, and then inside the primer flash time paint, you'll be ok..
Sam
#24
yes, BUT.. you have to paint before the primer flashes.. else you have to sand.. and sanding the multi-surfaced chassis to get the primer roughed is a pita.. and will lead to peeling whereever you don't get it roughed..
if you prime, and then inside the primer flash time paint, you'll be ok..
Sam
if you prime, and then inside the primer flash time paint, you'll be ok..
Sam
Hey Sam,
I was thinking about doing the frame in sections if I were to do the sanding, priming, and painting all myself. Otherwise, I will just strip the truck down, and then take the frame up to the local sandblasting and powedercoating place and drop 7 bills on the table and say do that frame in gloss black powdercoat please.
#26
Well, the real reason is I sprayed a frame once when it was too cold and the paint did not stick, BUT;
it’s not warm, as matter of fact it’s cold. I think Al Gore (and his Canadian buddy David Suzuki) should get out of their heated mansions and come a help me with my frozen sewer problem, no global warming here this long winter
it’s not warm, as matter of fact it’s cold. I think Al Gore (and his Canadian buddy David Suzuki) should get out of their heated mansions and come a help me with my frozen sewer problem, no global warming here this long winter
#27
FYI We are in shorts here... Mid 70's great for painting.
#29
Por 15
PC is all show...if thats what you want..but for me, who will drive it regularly
POR 15 - Goes on easy is less expensive then PC and is more resistant to chipping...and rusting again if you metal prep'd it.
Last edited by Flat48; 04-15-2009 at 09:15 PM. Reason: photo link didnt work?
#30
Varsol (parts solvent) or diesel fuel, paint scrapper, wire brush, rubber gloves, lots and lots of elbow grease and the beer that you bought with all the money you saved. You might want to rent a pressure washer after it’s softened up?