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i think i fried something

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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #1  
rupejosh's Avatar
rupejosh
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i think i fried something

well my headlight switch was acting up so i went and got another one and is still doing the same thing i gotta fiddle with it now to get the headlights and the parking lights to work at the same time.what you guys think?is it because i wired in my amber running lights on my grill guard into my parking lights?i hate wiring issues.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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Well sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere. Other than that as long as all the electrical components in the circuit can handle the load theirs not much else that can be wrong.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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did u check ur fuses
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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what did the plug in look like where you plug your light switch in that is where it gets too hot and burns up. extra lights = relays no extra lights still = relays.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by starmilt
what did the plug in look like where you plug your light switch in that is where it gets too hot and burns up. extra lights = relays no extra lights still = relays.
uhhh i little brown.dang it!!!how do i go about wiring up relays i havent done it before
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 10:45 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Brights.html
 
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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Stock lights are more than the stock wiring can handle.

More lights, relays are the only way to go.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:16 AM
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holy crap that looks confusing!!!i can definatly see where i will need the beer as mentioned.this is gonna take a while i think.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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ok i had a thought.could i just cut the existing headlight wires run them to a relay basically as a remote wire.and patch in the new wires to the harness then to the relay or is that pretty much what the diagrams were telling me to do?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 07:47 PM
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Inbasic form you are cutting the existing wires to the headlights and running them to the relay trigger terminal.

Then you are adding power from the battery positive terminal through a fuse to the relay battery terminal.

From the relay power out terminal, you are running larger AWG wire to the headlights.

And you are running a ground wire to the relay so the trigger coil can work.


If you have more lights on the parking light circuit, a relay on that circuit works the same way and takes amps off the headlight switch.



When I did mine, I cut the wires to the drivers side headlight and park light.
Power for the relay comes from the drivers side battery.
New wire from the relay to both headlights high beam.
New wire from the relay to both headlights low beam.
New wire from the relay to both parking lights, cab, and marker lights on the front and also to the rear as well as the trailer tail and marker lights.

The only load left on the headlight switch is for the dash lights.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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ok thats what i thought.i got 3 relays one for the high bem 1 for the low beam and 1 for the parking lights.sound good?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Yes.

You can just cut the wires to one light, then unplug the other one as far as headlights go.

Parking/marker lights take a bit more wiring.

Use at least 12 AWG wire for the headlights, I used 8 AWG and 10 AWG wire for mine and the lights are much brighter (Silverstar Ultra with heavy duty sockets in APC composite housings)
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #13  
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ok good thats pretty much what im doing i didnt have an issue til i wired all those lights especially with the power draw on it.hopefully this will remedy all the issues.once again thanks dave and evryone else.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 03:46 AM
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ok i ran 10 gauge wire and no smoke!!!lol thanks for all you guys's help especially dave.one day im gonna try and stump you though.maybe with my mysterious random antifreeze leak.curious?i sure am
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 11:25 PM
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You know you cany stump Dave...
 
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