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The other day me and my buddy went out to a long straight deserted road, got some videos, and for the first time i really ran the truck "hard" About three minutes later after it stalled. Changed out the CPS, still not starting, and noticed the oil pressure gauge not coming up. Got the truck home, checked the HPO reservoir and was 2" low, removed the reservoir, checked torque on the HPOP gear bolt, suspected it to be loose, not spinning the pump with the gear, however not the case. assembled it and began to crank it to see if it would start, went a half revolution and bogged down the starter, ground and kicked out, the motor just "locked up" for some odd reason. to make a long story short, the motor came out (again) today, which is just an afternoon affair anymore for me and a few buddies, removed the damper and oil pump however before the removal, and that wasnt the issue. Pulled the oil pan off, and there was the tube part of the oil cooling jet in the oil pickup, traced that back to cylinder 5 who's jet broke off, however it HAD to be recent, the motor ain't got that many miles on it....I removed all the glow plugs and such, no hydraulic lock, and its still a very abrupt and firm metal-metal contact when the engine is barred over by ratchet. I am going to pull the front cover tomorrow and see if the cam retaining plate bolts are still in, that could be just about the only thing left to check at this point..
Well, i found out the problem, it's going to be a little more expensive than i thought.
I was working on the engine and something caught my eye that #4 exhaust valve was higher than the rest, hmm, so i pulled the head, and sure enough the valve seat was sitting there on top of the piston. The inital crunch where it stalled the starter had to come from the large part of it imprinting itself into the piston, my nice new custom 15:1 pistons, i hope i can get just one to replace it, ***** me if i gotta buy a whole new set and rebalance everything. Do you think it could have hurt the rod, when i did this CRANKING and not running? I am going to examine the valve and head a little more, i have inconel valves and don't know where they came from or how to get more, so i hope it's alright.
I guess it happened because of the extreme heat, really the first time that i got into it, not even in the highest setting, and this valve seat decides it can't hold the heat. I dont know what to do here, im getting tired of this extremely expensive hobby im paying on and cant even use and have fun, im considering fixing it, selling the go fast stuff and just getting a forged rod shortblock, and some hybrids?
The hottest cylinders are #8 followed by #6 and in any case steal valve seats tend to fall out of aluminum heads whereas with cast iron heads the steal insert has a larger coefficient of expansion than the cast iron does so the seats should hold tighter at higher temperatures. If the exhaust valve is burned and was sticking to its seat that might've pulled enough on the seat loosen it up or the recess for the seat might've been machined a tad to large to begin with.
There're a number of techniques that I'm aware of that at least work in gassers for repairing a valve seat including threading it in, cold shrinking a pressing it in, using high temp Locktite, and recessing the seat a tad below the cast iron surface and then after final assembly using a sharp punch to carefully work some of the cast material over the top of the seat and polish with emory cloth.
Yea but kris I thought you wanted the challange of running a 7.3 and not a cummins LOL. I hope you can get back on the road soon and enjoy the money you've spent.
Dang man it has just been one problem after another for you man I really hope you get this sucker lined out after this little spurt and maybe some more break in time .
Dam, that is suck news. I would look at it this way, once you get it up and running, its going to be a dream! Hope you get it all back together and working with minimal money.
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