well.. my main problem right now is the tire locking up for no apparent reason. ive been searching like crazy and the only thing that i can say, yes that is what is happending is Brake fade. im not sure when these brakes where changed but it seems like they are heating up and sticking. i think the brake shoe is too close and causing it to heat up, like dragging and makin it heat up so when i stop for a few minutes its cooling down and sticking.

 

Defective master cylinder as well as wheel cylinder can cause this problem.

Check for a leaking wheel cylinder on the affected side. Are the pads covered in fluid etc...

Also Check the brake shoes for cracks, and the linkage for wear.

 

Well its at the shop, but i know what the man is gonna say. "gonna need the whole set"

yeah right its prolly a minor fix, and he wants to do it all. the first thing i want to get is the master cylinder, replace the brake line, and replace maybe pads and shoes.

when i get my truck back im gonna take the top off and inspect the float.

 

On the older fords like yours and mine, maybe all older vehicles, sometimes the rubber line from the frame to the caliper will split on the inside, and when you press the brake it pushes the pressure to the caliper to engage the pads, but when you let of, this split area will not let the pressure off, and you have brake stickage like you described.

A new lilne run somewhere between $15 and $30 for each side. I am glad I seen this thread, as it will be something for me to change on my new acquisition. This is cheap insurance to chagne the rubber line, than to have to replace a caliper becuase it got so hot that it melted the seals and orings (which I have had happen before)

 

It is quite obviouse you have never worked on one these vehicles with feedback carb or TFI ignition. Please refrain from making statements about things you have no experience with. Please leave the advice to people that DO have the experience dealing with these systems. Mis-information from the unknowledgable sometimes leads people to spend money that isnt necessary because of misdiagnosis. If you would take the time to read any Haynes, Chilton or Ford authorized shop manual, you will find step by step instructions on feedback carb and timing adjustments for TFI ignition systems.

 

F150dude, I think you should let us know how you really feel, botling that stuff up aint healthy!

 

The timing on the early EFI's are also adjustable using the same proceedures. They have an Identicle TFI-IV ignition, etc... Mustang enthusiasts like to adjust it to get a little more performance.

(And it's funny but My 1981 has a Feedback carb, and a computer, and it also has vacuum advance, (Hose to the Distributor) and a Duraspark II ignition system. )

 

Hell yeah! I am running 15 degrees btc on my 95 302. With premium fuel it has hella torque!

 

well the problem is whoever owned it before me ripped out the stock air assembly, and now theres vacuum leaks to hell. i dont know what goes to what! next to be replaced are brakes and Valve cover gasket. later on ill do the oil pan gasket which is also leaking. all i know it my truck is smiling because of all the TLC shes getting

 

Yeah they did the same to mine. Plus the electrical connectors were so heat damaged they would just crumble in your hand. I'm still running the feedback carb with the electricals disconnected, and a duraspark distributer with a '75 Z28 HEI module. All the vacuum lines are disconnected and plugged except for the vacuum advance, egr, modulator valve, brake booster, and the one that works the a/c-heat controls.