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Clean the EGR valve

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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Clean the EGR valve

My CEL came on today on the way home, threw code P0401, low egr flow. So I'm guessing it's clogged. A new one from Advance Auto Parts is $265. The delete kit is like $500+, can I just clean it up? Other than a new egr valve gasket what would I need?

I searched pages and pages for a dozen different things. I know I've seen it come up before, but I can't find it now. Also my truck is stock, 04 Excursion, and I have no intention of doing modifications to it.

If someone could provide a bit of a guide, or a link to one, it would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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Found this in the tech folder:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...egr-valve.html
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 05:24 PM
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Sorry for all the colors - I am copying from my spreadsheet. There have been improvements in the EGR valve. My recommendation (if you are going to keep the EGR system) is to replace it. If you want to clean it, here is more to read ..........

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=880 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 660pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32182" width=880><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=17>REMOVE EGR Valve
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=17></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 67.5pt" height=90><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 67.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=90>Clean it - Use Carburetor cleaner, not brake cleaner - keep the fluid out of the weep holes. Use new O-Rings (kit number is 3C3Z-9P455-AB).
ALSO: Clean EBP tube (vehicles built before 9/23/03 have the EBP sensor taken out of the computer control strategy), Also clean MAP sensor hose and manifold opening.
To remove: take the 2 8mm bolts out, spin the valve by hand, and use two lady fingers or heel bars depending where you live (1 under each tab) and pop it right out.
When you go to install the valve it is normal for the valve not to go all the way in. Push it as far as you can and use the bolts to suck it in.
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.5pt" height=30><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 22.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=30>Carb Cleaner recommendation (see link below and refer to old TSB 06-19-6): Note 07-21-9 supercedes 06-19-6 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-12.php</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD class=xl27 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=18>"http://www dot powerstroke dot org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/63592-6-0l-egr-maintenance-cleaning-write-up dot html"</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 15.75pt" height=21><TD class=xl29 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 15.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia" height=21>At about 1:40 in the Ford Presentation below, they state NOT to use Breake Cleaner</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD class=xl28 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia" height=18>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_31_250k.wmv</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=880 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 660pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32182" width=880><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=17>EGR O-ring kit number is 3C3Z-9P455-AB or International # 1840778C92; EGR bolts are torqued to 13 Nm</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 33.75pt" height=45><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 33.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=45>2003/2004 Service EGR valves: Ford Part Number 4C3Z-9F452-A and International #1846491C91 (PN on valve 4276L); 2005/2006 Service EGR valves: Ford Part Number 5C3Z-9F452-AA International # 1846490C91 (PN on valve 4043H)
The original valve numbers were: 2003/2004 3C34-9F452-AC (PN on valve 03191) AND 2005/2006 5C34-9F452-AA (PN on valve 4043H)
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 1pt solid; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=880 height=18>The new (good) EGR valves have a blue dot and a pink dot on the top of the actuator.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Also - clean your EBP tube and MAP sensor hose (if applicable):
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=880 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 660pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32182" width=880><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 1pt solid; WIDTH: 660pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=880 height=17>http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/ebp-pipe-location-cleaning-advice-146925/</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 162pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=216 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 162pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 7899" width=216><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 162pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=216 height=18>EBP Exhaust Back Pressure</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_058.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_009.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 162pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=216 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 162pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 7899" width=216><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 45pt" height=60><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 162pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 45pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" width=216 height=60>MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>The MAP port is on the intake manifold. The hose comes off of that port.</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_038.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 1pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: silver" height=17>http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_063.html</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

Let us know what the valve looked like. You can tell some things from the appearance.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 06:59 PM
  #4  
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Yow, scary. I use power service in the white bottle during the winter, about to make the switch to the gray bottle. I idle a lot. I mean, I idle about as much as I drive per day. I'm scared to see what it looks like. First thing tomorrow I'll be on Ford Parts front step to get the new gasket, and I'll crack her open, and I will take pictures. Before and after, still reading the pages on that thread too, for more info.

Thanks for the link and info!
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Also, I have put 20k on in 6 months of winter with extra idling, and the owner before me it was a corporate fleet vehicle so probably didn't get quite the attention it needed. Also i'm at 188k miles.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Does simply disconnecting it disable it and prevent the potenial problems? I have the code for bad flow, the guy at advanced said he was a certified ford tech, and said it was a serious thing to fix asap. I think cyl #8 misfire is an asap thing. Clean air is not an asap thing. Can my engine be damaged this way? What course of action would others take? I was about to make a 300 mile round trip tomorrow to pick up a tractor on a trailer, but i"m not sure if i should with these problems.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 08:12 PM
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You can pull it out, clean it, and replace it in less than an hour. I bought the gasket kit but I could have reused the original. Just clean it and pop it back in. If the code returns you may just have a bad valve. Not a big deal. Go get your trailer.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JaySVX
Does simply disconnecting it disable it and prevent the potenial problems? I have the code for bad flow, the guy at advanced said he was a certified ford tech, and said it was a serious thing to fix asap. I think cyl #8 misfire is an asap thing. Clean air is not an asap thing. Can my engine be damaged this way? What course of action would others take? I was about to make a 300 mile round trip tomorrow to pick up a tractor on a trailer, but i"m not sure if i should with these problems.
If the guy was a certified Ford tech he wouldn't be working at advance for $9 an hour. You can't really hurt anything if you have to make the trip. You can try unplugging it. You will probably throw different codes though.

Also you can make your own gasket pretty easily. Just ask the guys at autozone or wherever if they have some extra gasket material.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:26 AM
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Ok, here's my problem. In this picture the guy has the EGR valve turned:


How did he manage to turn it? I put all my strength into it and i can get it to move 1/16th of an inch, maybe, but that's about it. I tried getting a pair of channel locks on it to turn it but no luck there either, there isn't enough room.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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Mine was pretty dirty and it turned by hand. Do not try pulling on it to turn it - just rotate. Yours may be stuck pretty bad with all that idling. Maybe you can get a small strap wrench on it if it does not rotate by hand. Just be persistent.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Go back and forth too. It might not want too but it will turn.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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I had the same problem with mine. Keep twisting on it and it will eventually turn. It will not be easy because the o-rings will put friction on the housing. I put a block of wood on top of the alternator and was able to pry out the valve with a bar.

Cleaned up pretty nice with carb cleaner and a toothbrush. I soaked it in cleaner by cutting a coke can and filling with cleaner and letting the valve sit in it for about 15 minutes. The valve was pretty clogged up at the top with fairly dry deposits (like carbon) but no gooey mess like the picture of the posts you showed.

Had it all done in about an hour. Would post pics, but don't know how.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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I got it. I used a hammer and flat head screw driver to tap it around, then once it moved, I was able to twist it back. Be prepared, because here is what I found:






Two bottles of carb cleaner and 2 toothbrushes later, not to mention chiseling with a small screwdriver and a good 30min, it was all cleaned up and looking like new. Popped it back in and all was well. Glad to have it out of the way.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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thats bad!!!! quit idleing so much, and run a cetane booster if you dont already...
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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I ran the gray bottle all winter, white bottle all summer. But still I do idle all the time. 10-20min in the mornings when it's cold, while I go in to get my kids from daycare 10-15min i leave it running, etc. It kinda sucks, but it happens. I think I am going to look into the high idle mod, or just clean the EGR valve every 177k miles...
 
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