Tank removal
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 2
From: Bartlett, TN
Tank removal
I finally got out today for a while to wrench on the 54. I got all the wheels off and up on jack stands, and one of the running boards off. I wanted to get at the fuel tank and replace it. It looks like a lot more has to come off.
Do I have to take the running board brackets off to get this tank out? It certainly looks that way. And they have some very rusty bolts that are way up there in a tight place!
Do I have to take the running board brackets off to get this tank out? It certainly looks that way. And they have some very rusty bolts that are way up there in a tight place!
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 83
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From: Sacramento
Remove fuel lines and wires connected to float/sending unit. Undo the bolts holding the bracket to the frame, the ones behind the brake master are a pain. Remove the bolts holding the bracket to the bottom of the running board, without spinning and striping the square hole. ALso remove filler neck or at least gas cap and rubber sleeve over filler neck. Shimmy tank out with the bracketry still attached. I stripped out one the bolt holes on my running board but soaked it with P.B. and jammed a flat head screwdriver in there to prevent it from spinning. Sadly my tank had an inch of wet rust in it. Good Luck.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 2
From: Bartlett, TN
My running boards are shot. I have new ones and new SS bolts. I might go with SS on the brackets if I need to. I didn't know if both brackets had to come down.
I know I have some sludge in my tank along with 5 year old gas. I'm going to get a new one. I don't know it I'm going back stock or get an aftermarket "behind the differential" tank. I would like to go with more than 17 gallons.
I know I have some sludge in my tank along with 5 year old gas. I'm going to get a new one. I don't know it I'm going back stock or get an aftermarket "behind the differential" tank. I would like to go with more than 17 gallons.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 2
From: Bartlett, TN
Remove fuel lines and wires connected to float/sending unit. Undo the bolts holding the bracket to the frame, the ones behind the brake master are a pain. Remove the bolts holding the bracket to the bottom of the running board, without spinning and striping the square hole. ALso remove filler neck or at least gas cap and rubber sleeve over filler neck. Shimmy tank out with the bracketry still attached. I stripped out one the bolt holes on my running board but soaked it with P.B. and jammed a flat head screwdriver in there to prevent it from spinning. Sadly my tank had an inch of wet rust in it. Good Luck.
What is PB and does it work better than WD-40?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
WD-40 is a complete waste of time. I always use PB Blaster penetrating oil, as it has cut through anything I have ever worked on.
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From: Highland Village, TX
Having just done this twice because I found I couldn't run the hard line with the tank installed. Let me just say its a $@%#@#$%$$#%$# good time.
As I recall you will need to take both running board brackets off to install or remove due to the straps that go around the tank. At least that was the easiest way I found.
As I recall you will need to take both running board brackets off to install or remove due to the straps that go around the tank. At least that was the easiest way I found.
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