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lowering a 4x4?

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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #16  
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Why do you want to do this? I cannot think of a good reason to lower a 4x4. The F150s in this year range are not super tall to begin with. If your problem is getting in and out easily, get some steps.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 06:54 PM
  #17  
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I joked above but I really don't see any problems. The other day I wanted my truck lower when I was trying to lift a tranny into the bed. It could look cool and handle better, and don't really see any big mechanical problems with just going an inch or two. I'm not sure if these trucks have a rear block, but taking that out would make the back easy. And up front like was talked about earlier you can adjust for max camber and lower until it's strait. All you really gotta do is get the truck on some ramps and heat the spring enough with a torch to loose it's temper until it's the right height.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #18  
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I think this idea has some merit, swap in an AWD transfer case from an Explorer and you could have a nasty little street truck if everything else is done right. The frontend is the hard part, drop spindles would help if they are even available.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2009 | 09:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cliballe
When did I say to buy a 2wd Ford truck with twin I beams? I said to buy a 2wd truck (any brand, I don't care) because aftermarket support for lowering 2wd trucks in general is better. Honestly, who produces 4wd lowering kits?

You may be able to half-*** something together where you lop a little off the coils and add those super adjustable upper ball joint cams, but I think it will ride and handle like crap.
Well I figured since this is a Ford site we'd be talking about Ford trucks, but you got a point, the A-arm setup is a much more modification-friendly. On the ride quality of the lowered twin-beam tho, if anything they would ride better as the beams will now be parallel to the road surface, but really 2" drop is not much compared to the overall length of the I-beams (hence why it can potentially be compensated for with the adjuster sleeves). Tis when people jack them up with just the springs when they start riding bad and handling scary, cause the geometry goes way way off.

Originally Posted by Opossum
It could look cool and handle better, and don't really see any big mechanical problems with just going an inch or two. I'm not sure if these trucks have a rear block, but taking that out would make the back easy. And up front like was talked about earlier you can adjust for max camber and lower until it's strait. All you really gotta do is get the truck on some ramps and heat the spring enough with a torch to loose it's temper until it's the right height.
No rear blocks on the F150 trucks, the F250s are the ones with the 2" blocks and the F350s got 4" from the factory. Also, heating the coils is not the way to do it, you can cut the springs with a wheel, but torching them should generally be avoided.

Originally Posted by Conanski
I think this idea has some merit, swap in an AWD transfer case from an Explorer and you could have a nasty little street truck if everything else is done right. The frontend is the hard part, drop spindles would help if they are even available.
Can't do drop spindles n a 4x4 truck man, drop spindles only relocate the wheel's axle higher up compared to the ball joints, and you can't do that with the front axle shafts going through the spindles.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 01:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
Well I figured since this is a Ford site we'd be talking about Ford trucks,
Whatever drunk chevy guy, ya I see your sig, traitor.
Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
No rear blocks on the F150 trucks, the F250s are the ones with the 2" blocks and the F350s got 4" from the factory. Also, heating the coils is not the way to do it, you can cut the springs with a wheel, but torching them should generally be avoided.
Ok fine then longer shackles, I didn't say torch was better it's just super easy and works. But if your all about the extra work then fine do it right.
Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
Can't do drop spindles n a 4x4 truck man, drop spindles only relocate the wheel's axle higher up compared to the ball joints, and you can't do that with the front axle shafts going through the spindles.
Sure you can if you feel like making some, I don't think anyone does. But they would work, the spindle locates it's end of the half shaft, it can go anywhere it wants and has clearence.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 01:31 AM
  #21  
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ok, dont get me wrong i'm all for lifting..and lowering a truck of any kind isnt my thing..but i see where hes coming from i really do.

up here in AK with winter lasting half the year, most if not all of the daily driven lowerd street trucks are 4x4. my cousin has a '89 chevy 4x4 that is tucking stock sized 265/70 16s.

every day i see plenty of lowerd 4x4 f-150s,f-250s, expeditions, yukons, tahoes, 1500's along with dodges...usealy lowerd 2-3" with 20+" wheels.

the main reason for this is they like street trucks/the lowerd look but up here 4x4 is a MUST for winter driving..so its combining the best of both worlds.

you would be very surprised the number of 4x4 lowering kits, and i'm trying to find a guy i knew with a '92 f-150 4x4 that was lowerd about 2" in the front and 3-4" in the back..his truck looked very clean..and he might have some awsners.

so i cant find the pics of it lowerd, but here was the guys truck i was talking about after paint and 20s
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:14 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Opossum
Whatever drunk chevy guy, ya I see your sig, traitor.
Hey, it wasn't me who started it!!! lol

Ok fine then longer shackles, I didn't say torch was better it's just super easy and works. But if your all about the extra work then fine do it right.
It really ain't all that much extra work tho, just a few bolts.

Sure you can if you feel like making some, I don't think anyone does. But they would work, the spindle locates it's end of the half shaft, it can go anywhere it wants and has clearence.
Nope, they wouldn't, there ain't much space between the half-shaft U-joints and the axle ball joints - you move the spindle even 1/2" up and you're likely to have things hitting other things.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:30 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
Nope, they wouldn't, there ain't much space between the half-shaft U-joints and the axle ball joints - you move the spindle even 1/2" up and you're likely to have things hitting other things.
There's lift spindles for chevys, you should know that. They open up the distance between the ball joints when they do that. Same thing in reverse.

It's mute anyway, don't matter we ain't talking about a rig where that's an option.

Oh I just relized the problem I thought conanski was taking about using an exploder front end. whatever.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 06:53 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by AlaskanEx
the main reason for this is they like street trucks/the lowerd look but up here 4x4 is a MUST for winter driving..so its combining the best of both worlds.

so i cant find the pics of it lowerd, but here was the guys truck i was talking about after paint and 20s

You hit the nail on the head. Imagine this sweet ride sitting lower on those big wheels and tires. It would sit just like a modern hot rod.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 11:09 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
Can't do drop spindles n a 4x4 truck man, drop spindles only relocate the wheel's axle higher up compared to the ball joints, and you can't do that with the front axle shafts going through the spindles.
Ah.. yes.. forgot about those pesky things.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 02:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Opossum
There's lift spindles for chevys, you should know that. They open up the distance between the ball joints when they do that. Same thing in reverse.
The Chev has IFS A-arms tho, you can do about anything you want with those - the D44 has fixed ball joints distance, not much you can do with that setup.

Oh I just relized the problem I thought conanski was taking about using an exploder front end. whatever.
Is the Explorer front end IFS? That would make sense then about the lift spindles, still within limits tho.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by M.L.S.C.
The Chev has IFS A-arms tho, you can do about anything you want with those - the D44 has fixed ball joints distance, not much you can do with that setup.



Is the Explorer front end IFS? That would make sense then about the lift spindles, still within limits tho.
Yup! I know all this and yes the explerer is IFS, it's twin A-arm like the chevy, just smaller, same as the Ranger. There even both torsien bar, and center disconnect.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #28  
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i honestly think if its possible do it, i have thought about this many times, it would be sick to have a fast 4wd truck, and if its lowered it could handle much better

it could possibly be the sickest idea, if its done right and if it could be done
 
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