my suggested methodology... drive or drag to closest transmission repair shop, beg for lower rates due to all the effort you've already put into the truck as a whole. if that doesn't work switch tactics to them getting the oppertunity to work on a classic. If that doesn't work, just bend over and use a little lithium grease to make it easier to accept.

what would a transmission rebuild usually cost for something so simple?

 

I'm not sure. If it was cheap since it is a manual simple trany, then it might be worth just having someone else rebuild it, but unfortunately I am stubborn and I want to learn how to rebuild one.

 

go to the link below - Its the repair manual for 58 Ford Car Manual Transmissions - They are the same as your Truck.
Left click on each thumb nail - it will reappear as a larger photo - right click and pick copy picture - select a file where you want the file on your computer. After it completes the copy back page until you find the thumb nails - repeat as necessary.
You should copy all the pages available just to make sure you get the correct tranny.

Group 3, Clutch, Conventional transmissions and Rear Axle

 

The cost depends on what it needs. I bought the "soft parts" (blocker rings, needle and main bearings, and thrust washers) plus new 1st and reverse gears (badly chipped teeth) for about $200. BUT... the part that frequently goes bad on these is the case at the thrust washer. Mine was mucho scored. VanPelt offers a proper repair, but it's about $350. I elected to dress it down as best I could and shim to restore clearances. Excessive end play is what makes them pop out of 2nd when coasting (usually).

It isn't a hard job at all. Some of the snap rings are extremely tough to remove, mostly because Ford beveled the ends the wrong way (so your snap ring pliers want to slip off). I elected to cut those off and replace with VanPelt's which are beveled the right way.

Honestly, before you go to any trouble, look around inside and see if the end play is high, if there is trouble going into any gear, and if the 1st/Rev gears are bad. Just getting any chips that are laying in the bottom out of there is a big improvement, because they will go up into the gears. I guarantee you that all the main bearings you can buy are going to be either NOS ($$) or hecho en China. No doubt they are "good enough" but I wouldn't spend any money until you know you really need it.

 

Ok Ross. Good Info. Since I mentioned earlier that I can't get the trany into 2nd or 3rd just playing around with it sitting still, but I can get it into 1st/reverse, might that mean something? Or something specific I should be looking for once I tear it out?

 

Is it a side-shifter (column shift) or floor-shifter? Either way it could be the linkage, but more likely on a column shifter. If not that, it could be one or more of many thing -- the rollers inside the input gear, bad blocker rings, bad strut wings, etc.

 

It is a column shift. I guess it could actually be hittign 2nd and 3rd and not hitting reverse and 1st, since I can't even get it to shift through the H pattern at all.

 

Disconnect the shifter rods at the trans and move the front lever for 2 - 3, the rear lever for 1 - R

 

Hey, Dick C. -- that was the best advise for Glockem45 !!!

Gib

 

I can't wait to try that, but this freaking weather keeps changing and it has dropped down to the 30's again and very windy this week. I guess it is Winter's last stand.

I will Hopefully finish the rear end this weekend, and then I can concentrate on the trany.

 

check if motor is supported at rear .bellhousing mouted to frame ect.if not you must support motor with a axel stand or a jack like ford gives you for tire changing. if you are using a jack to support motor put piece of wood on top to protect your oil pan .when pulling trans. out try to go slow and carefull to not put clutch plate out of alinement! or putting trans. back in can be a bitch. good luck and have fun.