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Since I'm new to this old truck ('65 F100; FE 352), I'm not sure if I should be using a lead additive when I fuel up. I did add it on my first tank, but I put it in before I fueled and the truck knocked real bad for a while. I'm assuming the additive didn't mix very well with the gas and I got a good shot of it through the carburator. Should I add it after fueling or simply throw the stuff away.
Another question: the bezel around my instrument panel doesn't look very good. It seems to be plastic with a silver paint finish. Can I pull it off, clean it and spray paint it to make it look better, or is there a place to buy this piece. It looks as if much of the paint has faded or peeled. Is it supposed to have a shiny or matte finish?
I posted a gallery "My '65 F100" but don't know how to link it here.
adding the fuel additive is a subject that has been beaten up on this site for as long as i can remember. i for one believe you should use it and there are those here that will argue the point till the cows come home. i for one use it as i have had two previous engine fail on me due to valves. they both had good compression when installed, both were used engines so a person can take it both ways.because they both died of valve failure i believe i would have gotten more mileage out of them had i used it. just my opinion though. As for the bezils. i dont think you can purchase them anymore but dont take my word on that. you can get them rechromed or repaint them yourself. i tried the aluminum paint once , didn't like the outcome, tried the so called chrome paint another time and that was a disaster. it looked good until i tried to finish it and found out you could just wipe it off with a rag and a little thinner. shouldn't have come off that easy especially after a 5 day drying period. Dutch
[quote=Flyn66dtmn;7353738]adding the fuel additive is a subject that has been beaten up on this site for as long as i can remember.
Dutch is right on those that do and those that don't. I have a friend that is a GM factory Diesel mechanic. All he does is fly around the country and work on large power plant type GM diesel engines. Anyhow, he owns a late 60's Chevy PU with a 305 ci V8 in it. He bought it new and has done all the work on it himself. He told me that when the US went to unleaded gas only his engine burnt the exhaust valve seats out. He replaced all the valve seats with the unleaded friendly seats and did the valve facing to seat machining and all was well after that. I don't know one way or the other but his story makes sense to me since lead was used as a lubricant additive. I'd use the additive until it becomes rebuild time!
Tim
OK, so far two votes for using it. Should I put it in at the end of the fill up? As I mentioned before, when I put it in at before adding the fuel, the engine knocked real bad...I'm assuming it knocked because of the additive.
First & foremost Welcome to the site;' I personnely havn't used additives to my truck; I assume (my trucks ) have only normal valve seats in the heads, and I run 87 octane more often than 89, seems to due better. My 65 model is all rebuild and I have to run 93 or better due to high compression, but my normal drivers, 64 & 76 models I use 87 and sometimes 89.
I'm not a mechanic but a pretty good Shade Tree One, So I would recommend running normal pump gas unless the PO's ran higher octane and the engines have been rebuild with harden valve seat's. If not run 87 and when she quits then put harden seat in it.
I have always put it in before the fillup as i think it gets a better mix because of the turbulence of the gas when you're filling it. jsut my opinion though. Dutch
The dash bezel...I'm guessing you're talking about the Custom Cab version with the sweep speedo? Dennis Carpenter was supposed to be reproducing those but I think they've been delayed. I took mine out, cleaned it and then sprayed it with one of the better quality 'chrome' paints. I didn't expect much, but it actually turned out pretty nice. Several light coats vs one heavy coat so you don't lose the detail. The worst part was masking off the two round bezels as they don't come off the clear lens. With creative use of paper and tape slid under their edges it's possible to mask them. A decent cheap alternative until the repro versions come out. You can get them rechromed but it will probably be as costly as just buying new, and the newer parts tend to be made of better materials.
Had the 'plastic' custom cab instrument panel rechromed, included the gauge bezels, and minor repairs, seem to recall it came to around $130, very please with result. May want to determine cost of supplies; primer, paint, cleaning solution, time and labor, etc., then call couple plastic rechrome shops for estimate and go with what fits the pocket book.
Yes, it is the Custom Cab panel that I have. My trim has one small crack where one of the screws holds it to the dash, so I'll probably try to paint it myself for now, and hope someone starts making this part. In original condition did this panel have a bright shiny finish or a matte finish?
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