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You will need a special socket for the spindle nut and to torque it tighten it to 50 ft lbs then back it off a quarter turn. The rutors are held to the hub by the studs drive tem out and the rotor and hub seprate from each other. never done the axle seals or diff bearigs.
2. Are the ball joints just pressed in? Is there anything special about getting them out?
They make a special tool to press the ball joints in and out. I've always drove them out with a hammer and large punch (don't forget to remove the snap ring on the bottom joint) and then used a floor press to put them back in. When you reinstall on the axle, put it all together loosely. Then tighten the lower ball joint nut to 35 ft-lbs, tighten the upper nut to 70 ft-lbs and tighten until the next slot in the castellated nut lines up and install the cotter pin. Then finally retighten the lower ball joint to 150 ft-lbs.
Originally Posted by cgrandahl64
3. Does anyone have instructions on replacing the axle seals/bearings (the seals and bearings that are at the end of the axle tube)
On the front end, the axle seals have to be accessed from inside the differential housing. This requires the carrier to be removed. You drive the old seals from the axle tubes into the housing, and the new seals go back in the opposite way.
Which bearings are you referring to? The axle is supported in the differential side gear by the splines. At the outer end, the stub is supported by a bearing on the back side of the spindle and the locking hub gear.
I have an exploded view of the ball joint D60, but I have no way of scanning it for you.