Looking at stick welders an not sure what the big difference between one that does AC and one that does AC/DC. I know how to stick will just don't know what the particulars are of these types of welders and what each is made to weld?

I will be using to weld the bucket on my excavator, equipment trailer, landscape trailer, truck and what ever else, maybe a little sheet metal but not much..

 

Look for a welder that has a higher duty cycle and 220v I don't remember the exact difference between the ac/dc it has been a while since I was taught the difference... I look more at the bead and the penetration personaly

 

AC machines are cheaper but harder to weld with. The only advantages that the AC machine has is the cost and you have an easier time welding metal that has become magnetized. The cost difference is significant. For just around the house or farm, the AC machine will get the job done, just not as pretty (welds).

 

If the output is AC or DC, then the DC puts a steady voltage out on a positive and negative rail. The AC side will put both positive and negative on the same rail, then depending on the sine wave, it could be a sloped change, a sudden change or a stepped change in voltage.

I imagine the AC, unless it's square sine wave, would be cycling fast and causing the stick to melt at different rates according the cycle.

I don't know though, I am guessing here.

 

with stick dc is the way to go,much easier to weld with,I have used the ac like the lincoln 220 cracker boxes but dc is a much better stick welder.

 

Get DC if you can..Or get mig if you want the best..250a min for big work..
Like said above check duty cycle. On the cheap one's you can't weld too long before they get too hot...I have a big Mig unit that will weld all day long.


Dick

 

I don't know what the stick welders are going for, but I bought a Daytona Mig for around $500 a decade ago. It's not a big welder by any means, but it's fixed an old trailer and welded a striped pinion to a striped ring gear, along with some other projects I used to try and learn.

Although, with the mig, I liked welding with argon better than flux core wire. I just haven't refilled my bottle, which suspect now needs hydro.

 

I had a mig and just can not get used to it.. i weld like crap with it.. learned with a stick and is how i know.. lol just sold my mig for 550 now looking to get a stick again.. just not sure about this ac dc thing

 

hvphotog---I sent you a PM on a welding site that i used a while back when i was i looking for a new mig machine.

didn't know if posting another forum is ok so i just sent it in a private message but they helped me out alot.


as for the AC vs DC question.. DC all the way, just make sure the machine can do DC+ and DC- if possible. nice to have the choice to run the different polarities.

 

Were you welding with your MIG outside in the breeze or in the shop? The wind will blow the shielding gas away which will make your weld look like crap. All you need to do to fix it is run flux cored wire, but like you, I think I'd rather just stick weld rather than melt flux core wire.

 

A DC welder will serve you well. I spent yesterday welding on my backhoe bucket using 1/8" and 3/16" rod. The welding was easy to do (easier than using AC) and the welds came out fine. There was a very light rain while I was working, but you can't always pick the weather.

Recommend a DC welder (or AC/DC) with a 200+ Amp capacity. This way you will not be limited as to duty cycle or to rod size. Welding on an excavator bucket requires plenty of power and the ability to use larger rod makes work easier.

Sheet metal is a different story. No AC or DC welder will work as well as a simple MIG welder that uses shielding gas.

Two welders are more fun than one.

Lou Braun

 

DC will give consistently better weld penetration (strength) and appearance.

For thinner metals, attaching a TIG (Tungston - Inert Gas) Torch to your DC machine (Straight Polarity - Positive to Ground / Negative to Electrode) and a tank of Argon will let you weld anything right down to the handles on your wife's favorite Stainless Steel Cookware, and with a steady hand will give a nice appearance.

Duty Cycle: percent of time under full load.

Example: if your machine operates under "Full-Load" conditions 36 minutes out of an hour, that's a 60% duty cycle. If your machine is 60% duty cycle and you average more than 36-40 minutes an hour at "Full-Load", then you need a higher duty cycle. The machines we use in industrial applications are 100% duty cycle because we weld almost constantly at times.

The duty cycle MIGHT be an issue if you do alot of "build-up" welding, like on a loader bucket. Simple repairs shouldn't be a problem though.

The most important tip I used to give my welding students was "Make it hot!". Alot of "variables" figure into the equation, but under similar conditions, a higher "setting" (more amperage) will give you much better penetration into your base metals (Weld Strength), and the weld bead will be much smoother, because a higher temperature will cause the metal to flow more smoothly as it melts, and will be more forgiving of your shakey hands. (Key word is "variables"...)

Whew...wish I had an hour to explain, but thats the basics...NO CHARGE!.