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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Stalling when cold ad wet

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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 09:16 AM
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Stalling when cold ad wet

Hey Guys, My 86 f150 300 six stalls at the corners in drive only when the engine is not yet at operating temperature, she'll stay running in neutral.
Once she warms up she's ok.

I suspected the distributor cap so I changed it and the rotor, the wires are good. Also if I turn the headlights off it somewhat helps. It seems to me that maybe it's producing less current somehow when it's damp.

Or could it be carb related somehow, I just did the carb cleaner thing with amazing results, purrs like a kitten at idle now.

Just wondering where you guys would start looking
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Another place to look is the coil. Pull the large coil wire out and make sure there is no corrosion.

If that looks ok, then I would suspect the carb is freezing up. Once the engine heat reaches the carb, it thaws out and runs ok. If you have a header on the engine, then that's a problem, since the original exhaust manifold was mated to the intake to help heat the carb.

If that's ok, then you need to make sure the original air cleaner is working with the heat hose going to the exhaust manifold. If you get this working, it will for sure prevent any carb icing problems.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 05:40 PM
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I think fuel filter is cloged. when choke is on, can't get enough fuel til it opens.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks to the both of you, I kind of thought the coil might be weak but never thought of corrosion on the wire and then I go and clean the carb without thinking of what comes before it duh...

I'm going to see to these things tomorrow and let you know.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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Stalling when cold and wet.

Well it snowed for a couple of days up here in Ontario, and then of course I had to catch up the running around I had to do but I managed to pick up a fuel filter and install it. Then I yanked the ignition wires to inspect them. They are all clean and greased. The coil wire to the distributor had a little soot in it at the coil end. I cleaned that up and applied some grease to it. Carbon in there would be indicative of moisture getting in there, right?

Also, Franklin2, all the carb heating stuff is there and in unusually good shape including the weaved cloth lining on the carb heating pipe. Tomorrow, I'm going to go around everything with a spray bottle while she's getting up to operating temperature and see what happens. Thanks again you guys
 

Last edited by lanechange; Apr 11, 2009 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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When you first start it up, make sure the flapper door in the aircleaner is closing, and it's sucking air up the heat hose. You should be able to hold onto the heat hose, and feel it start to get warm as the engine draws warm air up through it.

If it's not working, then I would suspect the sensor in the aircleaner. Sometimes I can pry the plastic top off of it, and fiddle with it to get it working. It actually has a little adjustment on it too, which you are probably not supposed to turn, but I do anyway and it will start working again.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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When you first start it up, make sure the flapper door in the aircleaner is closing, and it's sucking air up the heat hose. You should be able to hold onto the heat hose, and feel it start to get warm as the engine draws warm air up through it.

If it's not working, then I would suspect the sensor in the aircleaner. Sometimes I can pry the plastic top off of it, and fiddle with it to get it working. It actually has a little adjustment on it too, which you are probably not supposed to turn, but I do anyway and it will start working again.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 07:11 AM
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You nailed it, I was going to ask that very question

The door stays semi open, I'm going to go play with it in a little bit, got a feeling that's probably it, will let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Well, I went out to play with the air cleaner door. This one has a vacuum hose running from the tree and seems to be a sealed unit with a slip in tab at one end and riveted at the other. The door itself is open when cold and requires a fair amount of pressure to push it closed manually. There is good vacuum at the hose. This can't be a very expensive part if available, think I'll just go get a new one and see what happens
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 02:41 PM
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Franklin2, my air cleaner door is hooked up with a single hose to the vacuum tree, my neighbor says that it should be a hose from the vacuum tree to a heat sensor and back on to the air cleaner door. I've looked for it in my haynes manual and can't find it. They don't seem to cover the vacuum actuator.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 05:37 PM
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haynes manual.chapter 6 emissions control systems.6-15.it's in mine.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 86bigred
haynes manual.chapter 6 emissions control systems.6-15.it's in mine.
As it is in mine, thanks so very much you've saved me a lot of time that I just don't have these days, very much appreciated.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2009 | 10:12 AM
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From: patricia ab canada
no prob.any time
 
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Thanks again everyone, I've got it all working including the vacuum actuator, the little arm on it was disconnected, something you would'nt suspect. Anyways she's running like a charm now. I very much appreciate all your help
 
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