Another good thread on aftermarket turbo's:

http://www.****************/forum/6-...o-options.html

Spartan also has upgrades:
Spartan Diesel Technologies - Technology Beyond Performance!

 

Link broken above - hope this works ....

powerstroke "dot" org/forum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/78471-6-0-aftermarket-turbo-options "dot" html

 

Bismic, sorry it took me so long to get to it. I wanted to try to make this post as comprehensive as I could and I just didn't have the time to type it straight thru til now.

I noticed that the ATS Aurora 3000 was mentioned in this thread. Couple of things on that turbo in particular. 1 it is a smaller turbo, which could be beneficial, it takes less to spool and less lag. Plus it is a little more efficient, instead of something taking 15 psi to do, that turbo could do it in 10 psi(now this varies on what your talking about, but for normal street use, merging in traffic on interstate is what I am referencing here as it was illustrated to me by an ATS tech when I was looking at this turbo). 2 The Aurora 3000 is actually used more on Dodges then it is on Fords, so you won't get much feed back on Ford drivers. ATS claims more success with Ford owners with the 5000, which is actually a bigger turbo then stock.

Now for the aftermarket turbo that I'm intimately familiar with:

Spartan 64mm Non-VGT Turbo
From: River City Diesel(Matt was middle man)
Size: 64mm(like that was a surprise)
Supported HP: 475-515hp depending on tuning and other mods(I'm at 508hp)
Make: Switzer

Installation: 2-3 hrs depending on BS time with the person helping you. Only two parts required to swap in this installation. The pedestal and the turbo itself. 7 bolts to unfasten and then fasten back up. Very easy install job. One thing to note is that the new pedestal is also now the new drain pipe for the oil to be returned back to the low pressure system. I thought that was pretty cool, others may not. With that in mind, the turbo needs to be double gasket were it bolts up to the pedestal due to that new feature.

Pros:

Less parts to go bad on you
Able to maintain steady EGTs providing there is enough constant boost
Nice Jet whistle at Interstate speeds
Has nice low end HP despite being a bigger turbo as long as roll into throttle


Cons:

More lag when romp on from a dead stop
If there is an EGR or exhaust leak, it is more apparent with this turbo
Have to program out the VGT parameters

All in all a good turbo and one that I would suggest to others that are looking for a little more then just the tuning that everyone and their dog seems to do, but still have it be practical as well.

 

Man, I sure could have used this thread two days ago!! I found a couple of threads that gave instructions, but nothing to this level of detail.

I took the turbo out yesterday morning and took it apart expecting to be able to clean and recondition IAW TSB 08-16-13 but, the turbine has nice chunks out of it.
Not sure what caused it, but my EGR cooler went recently and it got WAY over heated. Could that have done it?

Anyway, now my choices are to replace with OEM (eBay for $660 used, $900ish for new) or go with an aftermarket. Looking around there are three that I am looking at.
ATS Aurora 3000 (how come their part number almost matches the cost?)
BD's Turbo Thruster
Elite Diesel VGT SR

I tow pretty heavy once or twice a month with a 14000lb 5th wheel. But the rest of the time it is a basic grocery getter and soccer practice mobile.

Any thoughts or experience?

Thanks again, this place rocks!!

 

I tow about 16k worth of horse flesh every weekend starting at the end of this month til Sept. I highly recommend the turbo that I have for towing. You can deal directly with River City on that one. Injectors I would get from Casserly(who is local to me, but he is good ole boy to deal with). If your wanting to stick with what is on your list, I would look at Elite first and then BD. I would hold off on ATS.

 

Thanks for the advice. I liked the BD but they were a little spendy. the River City is essentially the same turbo, but the machine work is beautiful!! And it is a little cheaper.

 

Found another good link to add to the thread (first part has to do w/ the turbo):

http://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/protech/files/xNewSuperduty.pdf

 

Just found a couple of tips I had filed away:

When working on your turbo, use Motorcraft antisieze on the unison ring (VGT turbo):
On the antiseize coating - it is a micro thin coat basicly cover the parts the wipe it all off with a lint free rag this will leave a imbedded coating in the pores of the metal. Too much put on and it will bake on and gum it up faster.

When doing the turbo clean, also check the unison ring for cracks that go from the vane slots to the inside edge.

 

This video has a little about VGT diagnosis (beginning at about 18:50):

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 327pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=436 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 327pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 15945" width=436><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 85.5pt" height=114><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 327pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 85.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=436 height=114>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech25_250k.wmv</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

TSB - 08-16-13 Aug 08 6.0L TURBOCHARGER CARBON DEPOSIT DIAGNOSTICS AND SERVICE TIPS

Post #3 in the thread below:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/774265-tsb-help.html

 

Hey Bismic,


Where do you find all this cool information and videos?

 

Here is a link to a set of instructions for installing a different Turbo Pedestal. It contains pretty good instructions and pics for the turbo removal:

http://home.mchsi.com/~f350/6.0instructionkit.pdf

 

Just trying to consolidate good information in a single post ..............

This is from dchamberlain (thanks btw - hopefully folks will rep you for it) who pulled the information from his 2004 service manual:

Maximum turbine shaft axial end play 0.091 mm (0.0036 in)
Maximum turbine shaft radial shaft movement 0.5 mm (0.02 in)

 

when should this procedure be performed???<TABLE style="WIDTH: 713pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=951 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><COL style="WIDTH: 288pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 14043" width=384><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>VGT relearn (from Brickie's earlier post - referencing blackhat620):</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=384></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/635024-diablosport-predator-update-for-04-truck.html</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 283.5pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=378><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 713pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 283.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=951 colSpan=2 height=378 x:str='KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure 1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature. (The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature) 2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module) 3. Turn on the headlights 4. Disconnect both batteries 5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this). 6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes 7. Turn off the headlights. 8. Re-connect batteries 9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep". 10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control. 11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle: 15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.'>KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:

15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the
P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission
must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was
re-flashed.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>[/quote]

 

Ater the turbo has been reinstalled.....after the cleaning and disconnect.