Question on changing struts
1) on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to change the struts.
2) do i have to compress the spring first before i take off any nuts and bolts.
if any body has any advice on how to make the job easier i would appreciate the input.
scale of 1 to 10 using hand tools = 8 using air tools =4
I replaced mine on my own about 3 months ago.
Yes you have to compress the spring before any nuts and bolts are removed from the strut assembly, but not until you have the unit off the vehicle.
I am at the office, I will post something later this evening with detailed instructions...and wrench sizes if i can.
So here is the outlook. If you have never changed out struts before plan for at least 4 hrs a side. I would usually reccomend a six pack but this can get quite tedious and it wouldn't be smart.













First Order of business, Tools Required:
*Enough Open Space...I had a lot of trouble because I did it in an Apartment Garage
*48oz Mallet
*Floor jack (DO NOT USE THE SPARE TIRE JACK)
*A work Light
*4 Floor jack stands (2 minimum)
*13mm Open ended wrench
*3/8 Ratchet
*1/2 or 3/4 Ratchet (I used 3/4)
*Breaker/Cheater Bar.....Torque is almost unbreakable with out it on lower Nut
*Socket extension at least 6"
*13mm Deep Socket
*Strut Spring Compressors (most auto part stores lend them, I used AutoZone)
*13/16 Socket for Spring Compressors
*1" Deep Socket for Lower Strut Bolt
Find 2 jack stands and do 1 side at a time or 4 to do both... I only did one side at a time so I could compare and put it back together correctly.
Of course I must be a bit like the txt book.
- Loosen Lug Nuts
- Jack up and secure with Jack stands (I put one at the crossmember and one at the frame as per a flat tire would prescribe.
- Remove the Wheel
- Use the Open Ended Wrench to remove 2 of the 3 visible strut mount nuts at the top.
- To remove the third, open the hood and you should see the third.
- Remove Tie Rod end by taking off the 13/16 bolt and using the mallet to "gently" push the rod out.
- If you have trouble don't force the tie rod out..use the jack to raise the suspension to were just the tip of the rod is in and sway it out.***I left the jack there for added stability***
- Check your trucks stability and then proceed to remove the lower bolt to remove the strut assembly from the Lower Control arm.
- Remove strut assembly. **I had a leveling kit so I used the mallet to take the ball joint off to allow more clearance again the jack was there to support the knuckle**
- COMPRESS SPRING UNTIL IT LEAVES THE GUIDES ON THE ORIGINAL STRUT BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE CENTER LOCKING NUT.
- As a side note the cheater breaker breaker bar comes in handy when you are compressing the spring due to the tension it creates.
- Remove center locking nut.
- Assembly of the NEW strut is reverse of Dis-assembly. Be sure that it looks identical. **lower and upper strut set must be the same**
- When you are putting the assembly back in it may help if you compress the whole assembly slightly to allow for more clearance..It did for my Level kit.
- Install lower Mounting bolt first with the NUT TO THE REAR of the vehicle
- DO NOT torque it up.
- Re-Install upper mounting nuts to assembly
- Re-Install Tie Rod End ***A firm knock sent it back to locked position for me and you can use the jack to help you manipulate the knuckle to allow for easy re-entry.***
- Re-Install Tie Rod Locking Nut
- Re-Install Tire Assembly
- Get Under your truck and tighten lower mounting bolt
- DONE
***ALIGNMENT WILL BE AFFECTED. GET IT FIXED IMMEDIATELY***
Best of Luck to you and godspeed.....I saved $440 Doing the Job Myself
that didn't include alignment....that was the average of four quotes put together(4wheelparts,sears,firestone,NTB)....I paid for a lifetime alignment back in 04 at firestone..2 months after I bought my truck....since the average price for an alignment is at least 95...that would bump up my savings to $530...that is unless you want to add in what I paid 5yrs ago (89.99)
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