i have a couple of questions. i have an 04 screw fx4

1) on a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to change the struts.
2) do i have to compress the spring first before i take off any nuts and bolts.

if any body has any advice on how to make the job easier i would appreciate the input.

 

depends on your mechanical background.

scale of 1 to 10 using hand tools = 8 using air tools =4

I replaced mine on my own about 3 months ago.

Yes you have to compress the spring before any nuts and bolts are removed from the strut assembly, but not until you have the unit off the vehicle.

I am at the office, I will post something later this evening with detailed instructions...and wrench sizes if i can.

 

thanks appreciate the input

 

First and foremost I'm sorry if my diction is a bit off; I wrote this personally from experience.

So here is the outlook. If you have never changed out struts before plan for at least 4 hrs a side. I would usually reccomend a six pack but this can get quite tedious and it wouldn't be smart.


First Order of business, Tools Required:
*Enough Open Space...I had a lot of trouble because I did it in an Apartment Garage
*48oz Mallet
*Floor jack (DO NOT USE THE SPARE TIRE JACK)
*A work Light
*4 Floor jack stands (2 minimum)
*13mm Open ended wrench
*3/8 Ratchet
*1/2 or 3/4 Ratchet (I used 3/4)
*Breaker/Cheater Bar.....Torque is almost unbreakable with out it on lower Nut
*Socket extension at least 6"
*13mm Deep Socket
*Strut Spring Compressors (most auto part stores lend them, I used AutoZone)
*13/16 Socket for Spring Compressors
*1" Deep Socket for Lower Strut Bolt



Find 2 jack stands and do 1 side at a time or 4 to do both... I only did one side at a time so I could compare and put it back together correctly.

Of course I must be a bit like the txt book.

1. Loosen Lug Nuts
2. Jack up and secure with Jack stands (I put one at the crossmember and one at the frame as per a flat tire would prescribe.
3. Remove the Wheel
4. Use the Open Ended Wrench to remove 2 of the 3 visible strut mount nuts at the top.
5. To remove the third, open the hood and you should see the third.
6. Remove Tie Rod end by taking off the 13/16 bolt and using the mallet to "gently" push the rod out.
7. If you have trouble don't force the tie rod out..use the jack to raise the suspension to were just the tip of the rod is in and sway it out.***I left the jack there for added stability***
8. Check your trucks stability and then proceed to remove the lower bolt to remove the strut assembly from the Lower Control arm.
9. Remove strut assembly. **I had a leveling kit so I used the mallet to take the ball joint off to allow more clearance again the jack was there to support the knuckle**
10. COMPRESS SPRING UNTIL IT LEAVES THE GUIDES ON THE ORIGINAL STRUT BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THE CENTER LOCKING NUT.
11. As a side note the cheater breaker breaker bar comes in handy when you are compressing the spring due to the tension it creates.
12. Remove center locking nut.
13. Assembly of the NEW strut is reverse of Dis-assembly. Be sure that it looks identical. **lower and upper strut set must be the same**
14. When you are putting the assembly back in it may help if you compress the whole assembly slightly to allow for more clearance..It did for my Level kit.
15. Install lower Mounting bolt first with the NUT TO THE REAR of the vehicle
16. DO NOT torque it up.
17. Re-Install upper mounting nuts to assembly
18. Re-Install Tie Rod End ***A firm knock sent it back to locked position for me and you can use the jack to help you manipulate the knuckle to allow for easy re-entry.***
19. Re-Install Tie Rod Locking Nut
20. Re-Install Tire Assembly
21. Get Under your truck and tighten lower mounting bolt
22. DONE

***ALIGNMENT WILL BE AFFECTED. GET IT FIXED IMMEDIATELY***

Best of Luck to you and godspeed.....I saved $440 Doing the Job Myself

 

A buddy of mine had 4 bilsteins put on by a shop and an alignment for $912. I am not a mechanic but I thought it was a little high. Seeing you saved $440 bucks that would be about right for the shocks and alignment I guess.

 

he must have got one hell of a deal because last time i checked bilstiens ran about $240 a side in the front and $170 a side in the back.....do you happen to know where he got them? I'd pick up a pair right now...thats the only reason I settled for Rancho5000

that didn't include alignment....that was the average of four quotes put together(4wheelparts,sears,firestone,NTB)....I paid for a lifetime alignment back in 04 at firestone..2 months after I bought my truck....since the average price for an alignment is at least 95...that would bump up my savings to $530...that is unless you want to add in what I paid 5yrs ago (89.99)

 

He got them from a tire shop North of where we live. The guy he talked to said that he had to order them from his supplier, whoever that might be.

 

Good write up. This should be in the tech guides.